• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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250-500cc Just Got a 2010 Wr 300

P

patrickaqefd

Husqvarna
B Class
Just got a 2010 wr 300, for a pretty good price.
Had a quick couple of laps in the backyard tonight, it seems pretty good.
But i noticed when you would pull up and pull in the clutch it would idle for a little then stall.
As it warmed up, the bike would idle for longer but you could here it was struggling.
Then i put it in first gear, got off the bike pulled the clutch in and the bike would slightly roll forward before stalling.
So it seems like the clutch is not fully disengaging, i messed around with the adjuster at the top but it did not seem to make much of a differance.
I am going to replace the oil before i go for a ride, has anybody shared a similar problem, or is this standard for these bikes?
Thanks
 
patrickaqefd said:
Just got a 2010 wr 300, for a pretty good price.
Had a quick couple of laps in the backyard tonight, it seems pretty good.
But i noticed when you would pull up and pull in the clutch it would idle for a little then stall.
As it warmed up, the bike would idle for longer but you could here it was struggling.
Then i put it in first gear, got off the bike pulled the clutch in and the bike would slightly roll forward before stalling.
So it seems like the clutch is not fully disengaging, i messed around with the adjuster at the top but it did not seem to make much of a differance.
I am going to replace the oil before i go for a ride, has anybody shared a similar problem, or is this standard for these bikes?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Great bike BTW...

My 2008 WR clutch drags and I just changed the oil to a true synthetic type and maybe it helps the issue ... All the Huskies I own have some clutch drag ... So it is nothing new to me and not an issue for me either... Really just means the bike will be harder to start in gear and harder to push also with the clutch lever releasing the clutch ... There might be some here who have solution ...
 
I can handle the fact with it being harder to start or push in gear my old bike was the same, but its just the fact that it won't stall in neutral but then will in gear. Maybe i will up the idle just a little bit.
 
patrickaqefd said:
I can handle the fact with it being harder to start or push in gear my old bike was the same, but its just the fact that it won't stall in neutral but then will in gear. Maybe i will up the idle just a little bit.
Click to expand...

Yep, that is annoying ...

I usually goose the bike with the clutch lever fully pulled in on the first ride in the morning when putting it in gear and after that, it sort of loosens up later in the day... This sort of breaks the plates apart ...
 
Do a search on here the topic has been discussed at length. Ray is right oil type makes all of the difference.
 
Thanks,
I have been doing a bit of reading and starting to believe it could be the stock cable at fault. For this weekend I will check to see if the cable has been re-routed and change the gearbox oil to motul transoil expert, that i bought with the bike. If this dosen't help then i think i will have to order a motion pro terminator (longitudinally bound) cable. But being in Australia this might take a bit of time to get here. Depending on how much it cost for the cable and shipping.
I really like the bike and find unlike my old four stroke its much easier to work on. Before I ride i have to fix the problem of the fork guards rubbing into and past the fork wear ring, and somehow fix the part of the rear mudguard from eating away my swing arm.
There appears to be a gasket between the reed block so i asssume it is not leaking and/or has been fixed.
 
patrickaqefd said:
Thanks,
I have been doing a bit of reading and starting to believe it could be the stock cable at fault. For this weekend I will check to see if the cable has been re-routed and change the gearbox oil to motul transoil expert, that i bought with the bike. If this dosen't help then i think i will have to order a motion pro terminator (longitudinally bound) cable. But being in Australia this might take a bit of time to get here. Depending on how much it cost for the cable and shipping.
I really like the bike and find unlike my old four stroke its much easier to work on. Before I ride i have to fix the problem of the fork guards rubbing into and past the fork wear ring, and somehow fix the part of the rear mudguard from eating away my swing arm.
There appears to be a gasket between the reed block so i asssume it is not leaking and/or has been fixed.
Click to expand...

Yep, these bikes are wide-open it seems when it comes to working on them and easier to clean after it is all muddy ...My 4t machines are cool but for some season, I feel safer riding the 2t 250 on the trails ...

The rear mud guard needs those little ridges trimmed off it to stop the SA rubbing ..

Good luck with the cables ... And that bike should have a great front brake also ...
 
patrickaqefd said:
Thanks,
I have been doing a bit of reading and starting to believe it could be the stock cable at fault. For this weekend I will check to see if the cable has been re-routed and change the gearbox oil to motul transoil expert, that i bought with the bike. If this dosen't help then i think i will have to order a motion pro terminator (longitudinally bound) cable. But being in Australia this might take a bit of time to get here. Depending on how much it cost for the cable and shipping.
I really like the bike and find unlike my old four stroke its much easier to work on. Before I ride i have to fix the problem of the fork guards rubbing into and past the fork wear ring, and somehow fix the part of the rear mudguard from eating away my swing arm.
There appears to be a gasket between the reed block so i asssume it is not leaking and/or has been fixed.
Click to expand...
even better option although more expensive is fitting magura hydraulic clutch....because they self modulate it has taken 95 percent of clutch drag out of my wr 300.....money well spent for sure
 
Yeh im really not sure what to do, i don't live to far from first class motorcycles so there is no problem getting it. But at the moment its probably going to be a little expensive, i will wait to hear back from motion pro to see shipping and overall price.

ray_ray said:
Yep, these bikes are wide-open it seems when it comes to working on them and easier to clean after it is all muddy ...My 4t machines are cool but for some season, I feel safer riding the 2t 250 on the trails ...

The rear mud guard needs those little ridges trimmed off it to stop the SA rubbing ..

Good luck with the cables ... And that bike should have a great front brake also ...
Click to expand...

Its odd because i looked at a te 450 and it had the exact ridges but has bareley made a mark on the swingarm. Guess its just one of those things.
 
Ok after playing with the clutch adjustment i have managed to decreased the drag quite a bit, it can sit and idle for a while now.
Yeh maybe a hydro will be on the list for one day.

Had another dilema today, the headlight was struggling and only bareley lighting up so i went looking for a cause and found the previous owner must have ripped the tailight cables off (probably flipped it i would say) then just electrical taped them together. There was about a foot of melted wire and that bad electrical smell, i honestly can't believe it did not cause more damage.

Replaced it all and the problem has been solved. Also now the "broken" speedo works again, but it shows 2400 km's, but its probably done a little more aswell. A little upset and will probably do a few rides then rebuild. What are you guys leaving rebuilds to? I was thinking probably to be preventive 2500 km.
 
husky3002t said:
even better option although more expensive is fitting magura hydraulic clutch....because they self modulate it has taken 95 percent of clutch drag out of my wr 300.....money well spent for sure
Click to expand...

It hasn't helped my clutch drag, but it is a nice upgrade.
 
patrickaqefd said:
Thanks,
I have been doing a bit of reading and starting to believe it could be the stock cable at fault. For this weekend I will check to see if the cable has been re-routed and change the gearbox oil to motul transoil expert, that i bought with the bike. If this dosen't help then i think i will have to order a motion pro terminator (longitudinally bound) cable. But being in Australia this might take a bit of time to get here. Depending on how much it cost for the cable and shipping.
I really like the bike and find unlike my old four stroke its much easier to work on. Before I ride i have to fix the problem of the fork guards rubbing into and past the fork wear ring, and somehow fix the part of the rear mudguard from eating away my swing arm.
There appears to be a gasket between the reed block so i asssume it is not leaking and/or has been fixed.
Click to expand...

I tried motul when I first got my WR and my clutch drag got worse. I then tried amsoil, almost zero drag. Have since tried rotella synthetic with very good results. Hope this helps.
 
well i will use the motul oil i have first, then i will try some others. Gearing is 14.48. I think i will get a 13 front. At the moment most of my riding hardly needs to be out of 4th.
 
patrickaqefd said:
well i will use the motul oil i have first, then i will try some others. Gearing is 14.48. I think i will get a 13 front. At the moment most of my riding hardly needs to be out of 4th.
Click to expand...
i was running 14:48 but first gear was no good for real tight stuff(too short?), too much clutch & would make bike get hot too easily. 14:50 or 13:46 much better(90kph cruise). found 13:48 no good for transport sections(70-80kph was bout it before she started screaming) & always between gears but probably be good for what you want. 13:48 & a 6 speed be perfect!
 
patrickaqefd said:
Ok after playing with the clutch adjustment i have managed to decreased the drag quite a bit, it can sit and idle for a while now.
Yeh maybe a hydro will be on the list for one day.

Had another dilema today, the headlight was struggling and only bareley lighting up so i went looking for a cause and found the previous owner must have ripped the tailight cables off (probably flipped it i would say) then just electrical taped them together. There was about a foot of melted wire and that bad electrical smell, i honestly can't believe it did not cause more damage.

Replaced it all and the problem has been solved. Also now the "broken" speedo works again, but it shows 2400 km's, but its probably done a little more aswell. A little upset and will probably do a few rides then rebuild. What are you guys leaving rebuilds to? I was thinking probably to be preventive 2500 km.
Click to expand...
ha dont trust that speedo! pull the pipe & have a look at the slug. 100hrs/4000km ez(provided clean filters, good fuel & full syn oil). i generally take mine for a 'swim' every now & then & let the nice clean creek water renew my engine internals-works a treat! :) hey i gotta brand new set of 13:48 supersprox steels if you after some?
 
Did you take off the clutch cover and adjust the nut/screw on the end of the clutch shaft? It didnt completely fix mine but it gives you more than just cable adjustment. It is the first bike I ever had that had this on the shaft. There are threads about this. Later
 
Congrats on ya purchase Pato, these are a great bike and damn lotta fun..... when sorted !!! had 13:48 gearing, very short good for techy riding, waaay to short for highway.. got 15;48 great highway open fireroads..115kph cruise back too 14:48 and good all rounda. playin with jetting as my main jet was waaaay lean up to 460 now and seams to be about right. ( wantin a lectron )... iv got 1800 ks on mine and lookin at piston and rings soon, maybe 1 year anniversery in march she might get a prezzy...
 
As the sprocket's and chain are brand new i will leave it take it for a ride see what is like and probably end up putting a 13tooth on it eventually.
4000kms, thats alot i was kind of thinking rebuild would be around 2500. But i guess it all really depends on oils type of riding etc.
Has anyone had the problem of the fork guards eating away the wear rings and the outside of the forks. I took the guard off, put the heat gun to it, and put some cable ties above the wear ring so it will wear on the cable ties instead. But if it had of been left for much longer it really would have done some damage.
 
Yep, I was giving mine the once ova today and the fork guard has been rubbing on the ring for a while...
I'll get the heat gun out tomorrow before work ( Thanks, good idea)..
 
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