Jetting

[Baritone]

May as well get this endless subject started now.

06 610 TE with a "miss" at constant 1/4 throttle. Asked for help at the other place with no response since the issue seems to be between the needle position and the needle jet size. I wanted to get the best possible fix the first time instead of having to yank the thing apart numerous times.

Bike is mostly ok (good idle and initial throttle and fine WFO/on the main) where I live (1700ft) with the stock jetting/settings but it gets worse the higher I go. So, today I just decided to move the needle down 2 notches to see what happens. It's a PITA to do the changes with taking the tank off etc but doing the needle thing was easier than pulling the carb all the way off and I didn't have any other jets anyway. Hope I got it right the first time but I'll get to take it on a test ride tomorrow to see.

Any thoughts?

Doug

 

[rajobigguy]

May as well get this endless subject started now.

06 610 TE with a "miss" at constant 1/4 throttle. Asked for help at the other place with no response since the issue seems to be between the needle position and the needle jet size. I wanted to get the best possible fix the first time instead of having to yank the thing apart numerous times.

Bike is mostly ok (good idle and initial throttle and fine WFO/on the main) where I live (1700ft) with the stock jetting/settings but it gets worse the higher I go. So, today I just decided to move the needle down 2 notches to see what happens. It's a PITA to do the changes with taking the tank off etc but doing the needle thing was easier than pulling the carb all the way off and I didn't have any other jets anyway. Hope I got it right the first time but I'll get to take it on a test ride tomorrow to see.

Any thoughts?

Doug

Jet this way and use an irridium plug.

Factory settings were
main jet--------172
pilot jet-------- 50
startung jet---- 85
main air---------200
low air ----------100
needle----------OBDVR
positiion--------- 4 from top
mixture screw ---- 1.5 out

first rejet
Main----175
pilot---- 42
Results were better overall but to lean on bottom end with some decel popping (not real bad but annoying).

step two was changing the pilot to a 45 this cleared everything up and bike felt crisp from bottom end with a distinct hit at about 5250, pulled hard right to rev. limiter-about 8200.
I was pretty happy with this combo for performance and was getting 45+mpg.

Now at the time I purchased a JD jet kit I also bought a LV slip on for the bike. I figured that after I installed the new exhaust that the jetting would need to be richened up a bit so it was a good time to install the jetting kit.
According to JD's recomendations my jetting should have been right where I had it except I should have a 180 main jet so I changed the main, installed the leak jet, red needle in the 5th from top position and the heavy o-ring.
Results were a bit more bottom end snap which frankly I attribute mostly to the new exhaust, bike fell on it's face above 5000 rpm and my gas mileage went to about 35 mpg.
Next I changed back to the factory needle with no decernable difference in performance but the mpg improved slightly.
Changed back to JD needle 5 th position with a 178 main and everything improved although it was still not pulling as hard at higher rpms and mileage is only about 40.
Raised clip to the 4th postition and regained some of the topend hit and getting close to 45mpg now (depending on how I drive of course).
Also installed a zipty fuel screw to make adjustments easier.
This seems to be the best combo I could come up with.
BTW most of riding is from sea level to 5000'.

Oh yeah I almost forgot about the leak jet, #60 I believe.

 

[Baritone]

use an irridium plug.

Is that plug hotter or the same heat range and I assume you mean NGK? What's its number? I think Denso also has an irridium...

Doug

 

[Michael Lueders]

Here's a bunch of info
http://au.geocities.com/ozcross250/needles.html
Grasp this first.

 

[rajobigguy]

use an irridium plug.

Is that plug hotter or the same heat range and I assume you mean NGK? What's its number? I think Denso also has an irridium...

Doug

CR8Eix
NGK

 

[Baritone]

Thanks, Michael. Interesting read. My problem/challenge is that I'm between two circuits and I guess I'll just have to do the trial and error thing thus far since I'll have to put it back together to do the test. I was hoping to find someone that had the same issue with a TE that did one thing or the other to correct the problem. I'll be a lot smarter after I ride it...post the needle change.

Doug

 

[Michael Lueders]

Thanks, Michael. Interesting read. My problem/challenge is that I'm between two circuits and I guess I'll just have to do the trial and error thing thus far since I'll have to put it back together to do the test. I was hoping to find someone that had the same issue with a TE that did one thing or the other to correct the problem. I'll be a lot smarter after I ride it...post the needle change.

Doug

The key is trying to figure out which part of which circuit your deficient in.
Trial and error..I can say with certainty that even when it "feels right" a dyno will tell another story.

 

[rajobigguy]

Honestly Doug I went through a lot of trial and error with mine trying to find the perfect setting. If you set it up just like I outlined you will be so close that you will never look at it again. No mid range stumble and very minimal decel popping ( only occassionally ).

 

[Baritone]

irridium plug

Thanks for the input, guys. I was hoping to avoid becoming VERY familiar with my carb. Who knows...may get lucky with the 1st adjustments. Hope so.

Re: the irridium plugs. What is the "real world" benefit of 'em? Never used one before.

Thanks

 

[rajobigguy]

Thanks for the input, guys. I was hoping to avoid becoming VERY familiar with my carb. Who knows...may get lucky with the 1st adjustments. Hope so.

Re: the irridium plugs. What is the "real world" benefit of 'em? Never used one before.

Thanks

The biggest advantage is that they are a fine wire plug and reach the "self cleaning temp." very fast so there is no chance of them becomeing fouled. Other advantages are that they deliver a more focused spark so you get more cosistent combustion,which means they are less sensitive to temporary lean or rich conditions which you might see during hard acceleration or on and of the throttle type riding. You can justify the cost of the plug by the fact that they last so long, irridium is one of the platnium based elements and is very corrosion resistent so between the fact that they don't foul or corrode you can easily expect 3-4 times the life of a regular plug.

 

[Baritone]

Thanks for the info.

Looks like I'll have to go back in the carb after my needle change. Runs better but still a periodic 1/4throttle miss from time to time. Now that I look for it to happen it is annoying. Obviously, it'll be worse at higher elevations. So...I've still got some work to do!

 

[Coffee]

Thanks for the info.

Looks like I'll have to go back in the carb after my needle change. Runs better but still a periodic 1/4throttle miss from time to time. Now that I look for it to happen it is annoying. Obviously, it'll be worse at higher elevations. So...I've still got some work to do!

What I did.

Find a road - preferably with a slight uphill - then test the bike at steady throttle settings 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, and WOT, i.e. 1/4 of a turn of the throttle. "Steady throttle" means at lest a few seconds at those positions.

Do the same thing with the choke out a bit, then again with the hot start out a bit. If it runs better at a particular throttle setting with the choke out a bit then it needs to be richer. For example if it runs better with the choke out a bit at 3/8 throttle then the needle needs to be moved up which means the clip on the needle needs to go down so the needle sits higher and allows more fuel.

Mark the throttle grip and the part of the throttle that does not move so you can repeatedly know where those different positions are - I used a couple of pieces of blue painters tape and marked with an ink pen.

Obviously the bike will operate differently when fully warmed up vs just started and not quite as warm.

.

 

[Baritone]

What I did.

Find a road - preferably with a slight uphill - then test the bike at steady throttle settings 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, and WOT, i.e. 1/4 of a turn of the throttle. "Steady throttle" means at lest a few seconds at those positions.

Do the same thing with the choke out a bit, then again with the hot start out a bit. If it runs better at a particular throttle setting with the choke out a bit then it needs to be richer. For example if it runs better with the choke out a bit at 3/8 throttle then the needle needs to be moved up which means the clip on the needle needs to go down so the needle sits higher and allows more fuel.

Mark the throttle grip and the part of the throttle that does not move so you can repeatedly know where those different positions are - I used a couple of pieces of blue painters tape and marked with an ink pen.

Obviously the bike will operate differently when fully warmed up vs just started and not quite as warm.

.

Thanks Dean. Actually I've done everything you've suggested but have not pulled the hot start. From all indications thus far it's rich. The "miss" occurs at just fractionally below 1/4 throttle...steady throttle. At all other throttle setting from idle to WFO it runs great. I think my answer will be to drop the pilot one step as soon as I can get my hands on one.

Doug

 

[Coffee]

Thanks Dean. Actually I've done everything you've suggested but have not pulled the hot start. From all indications thus far it's rich. The "miss" occurs at just fractionally below 1/4 throttle...steady throttle. At all other throttle setting from idle to WFO it runs great. I think my answer will be to drop the pilot one step as soon as I can get my hands on one.

Doug

Ahhhh - gotcha.

That little stumble is indeed difficult to get rid of. I've got mine set fairly well for most conditions but different weather and altitude makes it come back. I've done maybe.... 5 - 6 bikes. The one with the Leo Vince was the hardest to tune an finally gave up the idea of getting it to run spot on.

Usually its a trade off between popping on decel and running correctly. Get it well tuned and it has more popping on decel.

 

[Baritone]

Usually its a trade off between popping on decel and running correctly. Get it well tuned and it has more popping on decel.

Ain't that the truth! I've got an 05 BMW K/S, loads of fueling issues at the beginning but it runs very well now...but, I get to enjoy the decel overrun popping as the price to pay. Actually, kinda like it thru a Remus!

 

[Baritone]

step two was changing the pilot to a 45 this cleared everything up and bike felt crisp from bottom end with a distinct hit at about 5250, pulled hard right to rev. limiter-about 8200.
I was pretty happy with this combo for performance and was getting 45+mpg.

I've decided that my next step will be to try a 45 pilot. The stock pilot is a 50 and the carb has not been changed. Looking at the Husky part numbers for the 610TE they only list the 50 pilot with no other pilot options. Is the 45 you used from the 610 or one of the other Huskies?

I'm going to ride up to the dealer in Greenville tomorrow...abt 2hrs away and tell them what I'm planning to do and hopefully will get some feedback. If they can track down a 45 pilot, I'd rather spend $7-8 on a jet instead of $80 on a JD kit that doesn't include pilot jets anyway.

Doug

 

[Coffee]

Did not realize you still had stock jetting... I recommend the JD kit cause it comes with a selection of pilot, main, and leak jets plus the custom red/blue needle - and his tech support phone number.

 

[rajobigguy]

I've decided that my next step will be to try a 45 pilot. The stock pilot is a 50 and the carb has not been changed. Looking at the Husky part numbers for the 610TE they only list the 50 pilot with no other pilot options. Is the 45 you used from the 610 or one of the other Huskies?

I'm going to ride up to the dealer in Greenville tomorrow...abt 2hrs away and tell them what I'm planning to do and hopefully will get some feedback. If they can track down a 45 pilot, I'd rather spend $7-8 on a jet instead of $80 on a JD kit that doesn't include pilot jets anyway.

Doug

The jetting is not specific to Husky. You can get jets for the FCR from most motorcycle dealers. The needle that comes with you're bike should be a OBDVR which (and this is according to JD ) is nearly indentical to the needle they supply in thier kit. IMO you can do as good of job jetting you're carb your'er self as you can buying the kit. That is not say that JD doesn't supply a valuable and needed service to the mortorcycle community, their support is outstanding and James will often walk you through problems personally. All that being said if you just set it up the way I outlined you will be pretty much spot on perfect.