Introduction & 86' TE510 info wanted

[trokel510]

Hi all - Am new to the forum and although I have had many bikes this is my first Husky and would really appreciate any info you can give to help me learn more about this bike.

So here it is - A few months I purchased an 85' Australian complianced TE510 which I have been told is an 86' model with the intention of doing some Vinduro style events and recently i took it to the Broadford Bike Bonanza along with my old XJ900 where it performed quite well and it was there while talking to a Husky enthusiast that I found out about this forum.

This is how it looked when i got it

Since purchasing the bike I have been doing a lot of research in order to learn all I can about it and ensure that i keep it in good running order and one of the things that has caught my attention is the unusual lubrication system that this bike uses.
So that brings me to my first question.
Is the read valve style oil system used in this engine reliable and is there anything that i need to do or check to ensure that it stays that way?

Also regarding the age of the bike, the manufacturers plate on the head stem has a date that is written as follows - DIJON le : 03/11/83 and was wondering what that means? seeing as directly below it also has - ANNEE : 1986 and As I said it also has an Aus compliance plate that is dated 85'.

As for the bike I have currently been setting it back up in it's original enduro style trim.
Here's how it looks at the moment. Pictured with my old XJ900 before Broadford

Once again any info about these models is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Cheers Troy

 

[Michel Dufayard]

Dijon is the french town famous for mustard.
But it is also the town where the french importer (SIMA)
is getting homologation for bikes in this area.

 

[hva-factory]

Nice bike!

Yes, it is really an 86. As Michel mentioned - Sima - the French importer were responsible for the plate on the frame but the stamped engine and frame numbers will prove it to be a 1986 bike.

Keep an eye on the valve clearances, as 'a happy tappet is a rattly tappet' if you want it to start.

This is the last of the Air cooled 510's and has the largest head and cylinder cooling fins - this makes it desirable, as a lot of them have been broken for the motor to use in a twinshock. Thus - they are now rare in this condition.

Pretty sure the manuals for this are available to download FOC on our website...

Your lower chain guide on the swing arm is missing.

You can replace the oil reed with the updated part (in stock) and keep the oil fresh and the filter (removable mesh circular gauze) in the side of the cylinder clean. (The 12mm hex just above the exhaust on the left side of the cylinder). This hex is easy to round off - so be sure to use a 12mm six sided socket or replace it with one of our 17mm hex ones...

Use a modern fully synthetic oil at 1.6 litres.

Try not to worry about the metal filings on the magnetic drain plug when you change the oil!

ENJOY.

Andy Elliott

 

[trokel510]

Nice bike!

Keep an eye on the valve clearances, as 'a happy tappet is a rattly tappet' if you want it to start.

This is the last of the Air cooled 510's and has the largest head and cylinder cooling fins - this makes it desirable, as a lot of them have been broken for the motor to use in a twinshock. Thus - they are now rare in this condition.

Your lower chain guide on the swing arm is missing.

You can replace the oil reed with the updated part (in stock) and keep the oil fresh and the filter (removable mesh circular gauze) in the side of the cylinder clean. (The 12mm hex just above the exhaust on the left side of the cylinder).

Use a modern fully synthetic oil at 1.6 litres.

Andy Elliott

Thanks for the reply
I can accept that it is an 86' model but still don't understand what the 1983 date refers too. Just seems strange

I haven't checked the valve clearance yet but it is on my to do list.The bike came with a printed workshop manual as well as an original owners manual.
From what i have read the recommended valve clearance is 0.10mm intake and 0.15 exhaust. Should I set them to that or a bit larger gap? When I took it to Broadford I had a lot of trouble trying to start it when it was hot. In fact it seemed the only way I could get it started was to roll start it. Some of that is may have been due to my bad technique but your comment regarding valve clearance is very interesting. Also it currently has no decompression system installed Auto or Manual. Not sure how the Auto decompression cable hooked up to the arm near the kick starter, looks like something is missing to me and i need to fix the cable for the manual one.

Currently i don't have a lot of spare cash to put into the bike but I am the type of person that likes to replace things before they fail so it sounds like I should replace the oil reed anyway before it becomes a problem. Looking through your parts list there is a few other items that I should probably get as well if I can afford them. However if I am to replace the oil reed is there any other parts that I need to buy in order to do the job properly?


As for the missing lower chain guide can you please explain further? It has a single roller guide near the front of the swing arm and a twin roller setup towards the rear. Should there be something else?
The other pic may not have shown it that well. This one is better

 

[ruwfo]

The date differences could have something to do with the bike being imported from France
to AUS.. The Bike may have not been able to imported for some reason, so Husky updated
the bike to latest version.... still kind of weird?

I've also got an 86 510, which I then converted to a dual shocker, but with out messing
anything so I could go back to original if I wanted.

Husky John

 

[rancher1]

The 0.10mm and 0.15 valve specs are correct. The starting is probably a technique issue as the 1986 model was a good starting bike hot or cold. Your chain guides look good, the rear one was hidden in the other pic. The decomp cables mounted to the small valve covers on the top of the head. The only part you would need to replace the oil reed is a clutch cover gasket. I believe the oil reed screws should have loctite when you reinstall them. That 1986 is a great looking example of that bike hardly looks ridden. I had one that I rode on enduros and hare scrambles and it was a good bike, just change the oil frequently.

 

[Michel Dufayard]

The date difference is due to the lazyness of french importer.
1st 510 had a homologation in France in 83 with twinshocks.
With the 510 mono, the importer didn't make a new homologation.
So you have a 86-510 with a 83 homologation.

In the same way, my 80-390 has a title with 500 wr written.
430 in France have also 500 wr written on title.

 

[fran...k.]

Hi all - Am new to the forum and although I have had many bikes this is my first Husky and would really appreciate any info you can give to help me learn more about this bike.



So that brings me to my first question.
Is the read valve style oil system used in this engine reliable and is there anything that i need to do or check to ensure that it stays that way?


Once again any info about these models is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Cheers Troy

I have an 1988 model which I got in 1997 and will try and make some useful comments.

First there is a technical reference section you might examine these two documents notably page 19 of the workshop one.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/vintage-husqvarna-1987-1988-4t-motors-manual.4988/
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/vintage-husqvarna-1986-4t-motor-workshop-manual.11386/

I intended on running the bike to see how the oiling system worked as I understood it it had an oil scooper thing like a push lawnmower. The cam chain has been replaced a few times, the last time with a name brand 10 foot piece cut to lenght which leads me to think the husky ones plastic wrapped to a piece of thick paper are of relatively poor quality. If it gets too loose it will wipe out the little screen oil filter and that thing was so expensive for what it is , like 10% of what I could get a running used bike for at the time. I have never inspected the reed but read page 19.

They have an aluminum case so the problems at the rear swingarm pivot inserts isn't as severe as fast as the two strokes but I did pull out the insert on the chain side and put some filler in there, borrowed an adjustable reamer and have had no problems since.

I rarely rev it up too far, kind of have the sewing machine mind set while on it and the valves didn't seem to change their setting so they havn't been checked for ages.

 

[trokel510]

Once again thanks everyone for your help. I think I will replace the oil reed just to be on the safe side.

[QUOTE = fran...k.]They have an aluminum case so the problems at the rear swingarm pivot inserts isn't as severe as fast as the two strokes but I did pull out the insert on the chain side and put some filler in there, borrowed an adjustable reamer and have had no problems since.[/QUOTE]

I have had the swingarm and rear shock out and greased all the roller bearings etc. and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. What exactly is the problem you are referring to.

 

[suprize]

The 510 in a trailer! wondered when you would show up! bike looks good. fix the decomp and all your issues will go away with starting. the kickstart end should be internal? check the manual so you should just need to sort the cable and it should all work.

getting the cable will be interesting.

cheers

 

[trokel510]

The 510 in a trailer! wondered when you would show up! bike looks good. fix the decomp and all your issues will go away with starting. the kickstart end should be internal? check the manual so you should just need to sort the cable and it should all work.

getting the cable will be interesting.

cheers

Hi, and thanks for putting me onto this forum
After I got back from Broadford I took the missus and kids away motorbike riding for a few days and have been busy working on those bikes, but with them all sorted I am turning my focus back to the Husky.
So last night I repaired the manual decomp using the original cable outer sleeve and an inner cable from a mountain bike and it worked perfectly. Then I went hunting through the box of bits that came with the bike and found the cable for the auto decompressor so i will look at refitting that as well when I get a chance and then check the valve clearances.

Interestingly one thing i noticed while working on it last night is that the carby is mounted on a slight angle so that the throttle cable at the top clears the upper frame tube. Is that normal?
Just seems a bit strange to me as normally the carby would sit vertically in line with the cylinder.

 

[suprize]

I think that's std, you should see the bing on a moto villa! its over 20 degrees to clear the thru exhaust

 

[PEZBerq]

There should be a 90 degree guide tube bend at the cable attachment to the Dellorto carb cap. Does your bike have this? It is still a fight tit to the frame tube I agree. I haven't had to tilt my carb if I recall correctly.

 

[trokel510]

There should be a 90 degree guide tube bend at the cable attachment to the Dellorto carb cap. Does your bike have this? It is still a fight tit to the frame tube I agree. I haven't had to tilt my carb if I recall correctly.

It does have the tube at the top which is the part that fowels with the frame and if I was to try and jamb it under the upper frame tube I reckon it would break the top out of the carby. Therefore I think I will leave it as it is.

Checked the valve clearances on the weekend and they were a bit on the tight side so have adjusted them to spec.
While doing that I noticed the rubber connection from the carby to the airbox is starting to crack so I was wondering if it is still possible to get a replacement? I have done a bit of searching including the HVA site and haven't found one the same.
Was thinking that I could probably repair it with a 2 part rubber repair compound but so far all the ones i have found come in commercial quantities. Does anyone know of a good option?

 

[trokel510]

Hi all.

Just wondering if someone could tell me what size the RHS crankshaft oil seal is? I think mine may be starting to weep a bit so I am planning on replacing it in the near future. Was just going to order one but then I came across a number of new seals in a box of parts that came with the bike so am curious to see if one of them is the correct size.

 

[suprize]

have you downloaded the parts manual from the tech section on the forum here?

 

[trokel510]

I have looked through a parts manual that I downloaded a while back but it only lists the part number not the size.

 

[suprize]

the part number can reflect the size sometimes....

 

[PEZBerq]

They are bog standard size and can be obtained from any bearing shop. My 87 510 uses 30 x 52 x 7 crank seals. I went for viton rather than nitrile as they run much hotter than a two stroke.

 

[trokel510]

They are bog standard size and can be obtained from any bearing shop. My 87 510 uses 30 x 52 x 7 crank seals. I went for viton rather than nitrile as they run much hotter than a two stroke.

Thanks for the info. I will have to check but I think one of the ones I have is that size but it's not Viton so will look at chasing some up locally.

Aside from that I have been doing a bit to tidy the bike up to get it ready for the Canowindra Vinduro next weekend.
So I thought I would share a few photo's of what I have been up to.

Decided to tidy the forks up a bit.

Then using the old cover as a template I knocked up a new seat cover for it