• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc interior engine bolt torque

LBBKserg

LBBKserg

Husqvarna
A Class
image1.jpeg so I'm in the middle of getting ready to reassemble my engine case and this is the first time I have ever done something like this(rebuilt the entire bottom end) and Im trying to figure out how am I suppose to know what these bolts are called and their torque setting.
It says y m c 10.9 is the 10.9 the torque?
thanks!
 
10.9 will be the bolt grade

You can check this site for what the grades mean.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

I always find it difficult to sort through the list of torque specs in the manual, but if you can't find exactly what you are looking for, they also have a general torque specs listed for standard sizes.

And someone will certainly chime in saying, "Tight is tight." I also prefer a torque spec when it is possible. :)

That's about all the help I am at the moment. At least it takes care of one of your questions!
 
taps said:
10.9 will be the bolt grade

You can check this site for what the grades mean.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

I always find it difficult to sort through the list of torque specs in the manual, but if you can't find exactly what you are looking for, they also have a general torque specs listed for standard sizes.

And someone will certainly chime in saying, "Tight is tight." I also prefer a torque spec when it is possible. :)

That's about all the help I am at the moment. At least it takes care of one of your questions!
Click to expand...

alright thanks can't seem to find any info in the manual so difficult to look at with 5 different languages in the same paragraph haha most likely blue loc tight and tighten it
 
LBBKserg said:
most likely blue loc tight and tighten it
Click to expand...

yup. that screw head pocket wont take a lot of torque in some cases that type of socket (hex/torx/phillps et, al.) will blow out before the shank can stretch appreciably. if there's no spec on the call out sheet i usually just clean the hole and screw shank well- brak-kleen/cotton swab/air gun to get it spotless then add a small drop of blue loctite and snug her down. to remove it if ever nec heat the head with a pencil torch to soften the locking agent before trying to remove.
 
pvduke said:
yup. that screw head pocket wont take a lot of torque in some cases that type of socket (hex/torx/phillps et, al.) will blow out before the shank can stretch appreciably. if there's no spec on the call out sheet i usually just clean the hole and screw shank well- brak-kleen/cotton swab/air gun to get it spotless then add a small drop of blue loctite and snug her down. to remove it if ever nec heat the head with a pencil torch to soften the locking agent before trying to remove.
Click to expand...

yep i learned on one of the bolts, bearly torqued it and stripped. had to use the trusty wedge tool and hammer almost couldn't get it
thanks guys!
 
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