• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Interested in a TE310, but have some concerns

I have a 2011 310 and it is awesome. I just pulled all the smog crap and did the power up stuff. No tuner or I-beat etc. The bike is killer. Of course it is not a 450 so gearing will never be perfect unless you only ride one type of terrain. In So. Cal. unless you have a 450 or bigger, there is no perfect gearing for a 310. We ride from flat out desert to technical single track. The 310 works. I am 155lbs and you can add another 25 with gear and backpack. Suspension is good. Enjoy.
 
mnb said:
I can't speak about non powered up behavior as I never even started my bike before it was powered up. It was prone to stalling, though. Bumping up the idle speed a bit solved almost all of that.

After I put in the JD tuner, it runs like a champ. Starting it requires less starter lever use. If it stalls, it's definitely my fault. The bike still lacks ability to finesse it at low speeds and rpms, which makes walking it up the ramp under power into the truck difficult, but out on the trail, it's kickin butt.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information. I have the resistor jumper and the pipe plug but am reluctant to install them untill my dealer has a look at it, so he doesn't blame me for the problems.
 
Pickle said:
Hi All,

It is getting to be new bike time for me and I am very interested in a TE310. The most appealing part of is is that it is street legal and doesn't weight 300lbs. I don't intend to do extended riding on the road, or to even hit the freeway. I simply like the street legality for linking trails, and maybe the 1.5 mile commute to work from time to time.

From the reading I have done it seems that to make it run correctly in tight singletrack it has to be de-restricted, needs a 50 or 52 tooth sprocket, and needs a JD Jetting FI Tuner. Fine, that seems to be par for the course for just about any new trail bike.

However, I am still left with some concerns:

1. The off idle stumble and cough and die issues. As I understand it, the JD Jetting tuner should fix this, but I read of people still having issues with this. How prevalent is this problem? Are there other mods I would have to add to the list to get this to go away? I HATE a bike that stumbles off idle, or that flames out easily. I fought off idle stumble on my current KDX for a few years before I figured out that something was wrong with the reed cage and replaced it with a VForce reed cage.

2. The hot start issues. An e-start bike that will not start when hot is almost unbelievable to me, as hot-start issues seems to be the main reason to get an e-start 4-stroke. I would be rather mad if my $8k dirt bike stranded me 25 miles from the truck because it wouldn't re-start after a snack break. How prevalent is this issue? What has to be done to make it go away? I am probably spoiled with my KDX since it starts on 2 or 3 kicks after sitting for the winter, and starts on a half kick when hot.

The other option I am considering is a WR250f, which I can get for less money, but doesn't have the plate and I unfortunately live in a state where plating a dirt bike isn't possible. Thanks in advance for the help.
Click to expand...
I have recently owned a '10 Honda CRF250R, '08 KTM 450 EXC and '08 Honda CRF250X. All three were rejetted, except the FI 250R, with FMF megabomb head pipes and Powercore mufflers. I now own my first Husky(2011 TE310). I have Akrapovic headpipe and muffler, new performance ECU and 12 hole injector, offroad rear sprocket that came with bike, Dunlop M71 ft & M51 rr, fully de-emissioned. I love this bike! The best I've owned for lightweight flickability, low end grunt out of corners and good hit in transition to top end (not as hard as the KTM 450EXC of course) and sticks the corners better than any bike I've owned just using the stock suspension(I weigh 175lb). I've had 0 bogs or starting issues ever and never lost coolant. I had the JD tuner but removed when I installed the new Husky TXC ECU as it seems completely dialed as it comes. Nothing has worn except the Dunlops in 10 rides. Quality parts everywhere!
 
The odometer on my '11 TE310 finally broke 200 miles today. The bike is definitely less finicky now at low speeds. :banana:
For the first time ever, I was able to power the bike up the ramp into the truck without stalling it. Before it would always stall at least twice. This has translated into better low speed response (ie: less tendency to stall).

I am running the JD tuner (stock JD settings) and it definitely helps, but I've had it on for 100 miles and the bike is definitely more settled in and cooperative now.

Every time I ride this bike, I like it more. Now I know that part of that is that it was breaking in and starting to behave more like it should.
 
No real help here...just saying the X-lite TE 310 would be the bike I would buy today, if I could. I am a big bore 4T fan but want a X-lite! They look and sound that good from the people that own them.
 
Did the Ibeat tune on the 310, set TPS value and started playing with CO#s. This resolved my flash out issues, and made the bike that much better to ride.
 
Pickle said:
Hi All,

It is getting to be new bike time for me and I am very interested in a TE310. The most appealing part of is is that it is street legal and doesn't weight 300lbs. I don't intend to do extended riding on the road, or to even hit the freeway. I simply like the street legality for linking trails, and maybe the 1.5 mile commute to work from time to time.

From the reading I have done it seems that to make it run correctly in tight singletrack it has to be de-restricted, needs a 50 or 52 tooth sprocket, and needs a JD Jetting FI Tuner. Fine, that seems to be par for the course for just about any new trail bike.

However, I am still left with some concerns:

1. The off idle stumble and cough and die issues. As I understand it, the JD Jetting tuner should fix this, but I read of people still having issues with this. How prevalent is this problem? Are there other mods I would have to add to the list to get this to go away? I HATE a bike that stumbles off idle, or that flames out easily. I fought off idle stumble on my current KDX for a few years before I figured out that something was wrong with the reed cage and replaced it with a VForce reed cage.

2. The hot start issues. An e-start bike that will not start when hot is almost unbelievable to me, as hot-start issues seems to be the main reason to get an e-start 4-stroke. I would be rather mad if my $8k dirt bike stranded me 25 miles from the truck because it wouldn't re-start after a snack break. How prevalent is this issue? What has to be done to make it go away? I am probably spoiled with my KDX since it starts on 2 or 3 kicks after sitting for the winter, and starts on a half kick when hot.

The other option I am considering is a WR250f, which I can get for less money, but doesn't have the plate and I unfortunately live in a state where plating a dirt bike isn't possible. Thanks in advance for the help.
Click to expand...
I have a 2012 TE 310 and I am very frustrated with the starting issue. I have already replaced 2 starter motors. The bike will just simply wont start with the the bottom when the engine is hot. I have bought a new Shorai battery 210 cc Amp and it didn't made a difference. The first time the problem occurred, the bike had about 50 km, the second time it had about 500 and the replaced the engine and starter gears and drive, the checked the decompression valve, and a few other things. It was ok for about a week and then back to the same issues. This bike is just not engineered properly. For what I have been reading in forums around the world, this is a wide spread problem and Husqvarna is not taken care of it. Time to trade it for a more reliable enduro ride
 
From what i've read, this isn't widespread, although it's not rare. I don't have this problem and neither do the couple people I know with a new 310. So it would seem it's not an engineering issue, but rather an assembly or failure issue of some kind. Maybe a loose connection, a short, a part that has experienced mfg flaws or something else? :excuseme:
 
Even though the bikes may be brand new, I would check the valves if I had starting issues. Check that air box/throttle body hose clamps are secure and nice and tight. Check that the battey cables are tight. Put an Iridium spark plug in it. Keep the air filer clean. Make sure it isn't over filled with oil. My buddys brand new '10 TE 450 is a hard starter compared to the 4 TE's we own. An Iridium plug is in the mail (thank's MotoXotica) and I will be checking the things I mentioned above. I am confident I will be able to help his '10 start easier. Our 4 TE's I can honestly say 3 have been trouble free. My 510 had the fuel pump un-clip and the battery welded it's self to the seat. Other then that and all 4 bikes are solid.
 
mnb said:
The odometer on my '11 TE310 finally broke 200 miles today. The bike is definitely less finicky now at low speeds. :banana:
For the first time ever, I was able to power the bike up the ramp into the truck without stalling it. Before it would always stall at least twice. This has translated into better low speed response (ie: less tendency to stall).

I am running the JD tuner (stock JD settings) and it definitely helps, but I've had it on for 100 miles and the bike is definitely more settled in and cooperative now.

Every time I ride this bike, I like it more. Now I know that part of that is that it was breaking in and starting to behave more like it should.
Click to expand...

Any chance we can get you to take the JD Tuner off and see what difference it makes? I have talked to a few people that have said theta re going to be rough for the first couple hundred of miles and then once everything breaks in you would be ok without a JD tuner.
 
Tessier said:
Any chance we can get you to take the JD Tuner off and see what difference it makes? I have talked to a few people that have said theta re going to be rough for the first couple hundred of miles and then once everything breaks in you would be ok without a JD tuner.
Click to expand...

It's a pain to get to that connector. But looking at the numbers for the tuner, the biggest change is to the lowest rpm range, which is where I'd always thought it was fussy. The rest of the range I was fine with. I'm sure since JD uses a dyno that there's more power across the range, but I hadn't really noticed a lack of power before. Just that it was really difficult to slip the clutch and do low speeds, specifically like powering the bike up the ramp into a 4wd truck.

I'm sure now that it's broken in that w/o the tuner the response would be better than it used to be. But I also know that with the tuner, due to the richer settings that it's even better.
 
My 2010 310 has never suffered any hor or cold starting issues - But the occasional/rare "flameout" does occur. When I say flameout I mean - when taking off from standstill using very low revs and the bike stalls just before moving away. All it feels like is the flywheel weight is very light, which is fine because it only occurs around 2000-3000 RPM/just off idle. Doesnt feel like the fuel pump choking or anything bad. I run no JD tuner or any other FI Hardware. Fuel settings are the stock/baseline settings set by the dealer (so I guess when my dealer said "normal settings" I am thinking they would be the generic ones given to all Australian dealers).

Only did I once have a bit of a delay when starting when the bike was new, but this was resolved. It was put down to the motor still being tight and some slight plug fouling caused by me being to conservative with the throttle!
 
My '10 TE250 is a great handling bike, but the motor is just not there.

I still race my 10 yr old 2 strokes because the TE is weak everywhere and just does not run clean. What is worse the e-start does not work when hot...I've considered taking all the e-start off and making it a kick only bike. Some days it runs fine and others it stalls all the time.

I have I-beaten it up and down, replaced coils, fuel pumps and starters and gears all with less than 1k miles on the bike. I always seem to have trouble while my CR135 WR144s run great all the time and never break even when I pound them in the ECEA Enduro series.

I would never race my TE250.

Do yourself a favor and ride one before the sexy looks sell you.

Make sure you are faster on it than your old KDX.
 
These "concerns" actually surpise me. I own an 11 TE310 and no real issues with it other than my getting used to having to rev it for it to work (because I came off of a 450)

First of all, my bike came "powered up" from the dealer because they knew I'd be Hare Scrambling it. So those EFI issues didn't exist for me. I did get the JD EFI tuner but mostly for the other tuning options (accelerator pump adjustment, etc.--not CO adjustments.)

The only issues I had with the e-start not working was twice in the first 4 hours. I'd stop, shut the bike off with the kill switch (not the key) and when I went to refire it with the button the motor wouldn't turn over BUT when I used the kick start it fired right up. I then shut the bike off and retried the e-start and it fired. I thought that I just didn't hold the button in right. Since those 2 times it's been flawless.

Get the bike set up right (powered up) from the dealer and don't worry about the e-start rumor you heard. Was the issue about a Husky being very difficult to start the '10 TC 250 by any chance? Perhaps not since it's not an e-start model---just verifying.

One things for sure--Husky needs to get somebody that speaks fluent Italian AND English to translate the manuals. The dealer stated that the service manuals are worse than the quick start manual. The lever mounted above the clutch lever is NOT a hot start lever because it's EFI--only use it for cold starts.
 
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