• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     FE = 4st Enduro & FC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FE/FC Initial idle/tps setting HELP NEEDED on 2014 FC350

guscycle

guscycle

Husqvarna
AA Class
Have a hard starting FC350 that sometimes will run several seconds and then none at all. Since the bike was a non running bike I have run through all the basics: leak down test -ok, spark-jumps a 5mm gap on my spark tester with no problem, Valves are spot on, decomp. on cam moves freely ,fresh air filter, all electrical connections are clean and have dielectric grease, electrical component values are within spec ( even though ohm readings can't always be an accurate indication of condition), all grounds are in good order, fresh 93 octane fuel and new LiFeP04 battery (210 cca). Fuel pump pressure is at 50 psi, injector has been cleaned and tested spray pattern with 9 volt battery, new fuel tank filter and inline hose filter, even the flywheel key has been examined.
There are several marks on idle knob that I feel may have screwed up any initial factory settings. My TPS tool is reading.64 , which seems about right but I am wondering if this is miscued by the idle screw adjustment. Question is: What is the procedure for making sure the proper TPS value is at a described voltage when the throttle body butterfly reaches the exact point of "complete closure"... especially when this throttle body allows idle screw adjustments that will alter TPS setting when moved . There has to be a exact point of reference for TPS voltage that coincides with the timing or exact positioning of butterfly. Any ideas or findings on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
 
Your .64 seems in order if taken at idle, but should be at about .50 at closed position.
Adjust you idle speed up.

Paw Paw
 
PawPaw said:
Your .64 seems in order if taken at idle, but should be at about .50 at closed position.
Adjust you idle speed up.

Paw Paw
Click to expand...

...so you are saying that when the throttle butterfly is "completely" closed, resting only on the internal bore of throttle body, my idle adjustment screw "not" making any contact to the cable pulley, the reading would be about .50 . Sound right?
 
Just checking... New/verified spark plug and gap?

As for TPS, I just use it as a "jet." If I'm at 0.64 and want it a bit richer, I reset to 0.68 (at the SAME throttle position as the 0.64 reading) and then test. If you need to raise or lower the idle after that, just do it.
 
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