• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Increased security on 2013 TE 310R?

Footgeek

Husqvarna
Hi

I am the new owner of a 310R (Love it!) and am looking to provide a little more security to my bike, since I use it as a commuter as well a a trail bike. Is it possible to install an ignition key or an increased level of security, other than a chain lock?

The bike did not come with a key for the fork lock. I purchased a new one from Husky, but do not have a key to take the old one out. Ideas?

Thanks
 
I can't say for sure about the steering lock - there may be a keyway that you can drill out to free the barrel. I recall seeing a thread somewhere on here talking about it.

Security:
I've looked into this too.

First issue is a suitable switch. There are plenty around, but getting one a reasonable size is not as easy as I first thought. Consider where to mount the switch first, then try and get one to fit. My idea was to fit it in place of the FI light - and resite the FI LED to the bracing piece on the left of the FI light holder. If you didn't already know, the FI LED is very small and the original lens is small enough to be resited in a few places. You may want to fabricate a bracket that uses the handlebar mount bolts to secure it.

Next issue is relatively easy - what to wire to where!
I decided the best way was to isolate the fuel pump and starter.
As the fuel pump was permanently connected to earth/chassis, and the clutch switch was also permanently earthed, then these could be used - either using a 2 pole switch, where both circuits were separate, or use a suitable diode to prevent any backflow of current.

So, in theory, a not too difficult fix.
I understand that the ignition switch as fitted to the 449's will fit in the FI LED hole, but I've not tried it as I wanted to be more complex.

Call me obtuse if you like.
I don't like having my lights on all the time when off road, although I do ride with lights on when using tarmac. One of the first things I did was to wire in a switch so that I could have the lights on when I wanted to. As easy job as everything is wired back down to earth/chassis. A simple break of a wire at the front and rear, a toggle switch to connect them up and to earth and the job was done. Thinking I was looking forward, the switch hole was drilled in the brace part of the FI LED mount, as mentioned above, so the LED could be resited there.
My real issue is that I cannot find a 3 position switch small enough to go in the FI LED hole, so I have lights and ignition on the key (everything switched to earth - easy!). There is a supplier of aftermarket Harley parts that may have a switch suitable, but it is low on my priority list to go and have a look - I'd rather be riding the bike than playing with it at the moment!!

Drop me a PM if you need any more detail on my thoughts on this.

Mike
 
Xena disc lock with alarm. It is so loud and obnoxious it will help deter theft and alert you. That is what I use on my 511.
 
I can't say for sure about the steering lock - there may be a keyway that you can drill out to free the barrel. I recall seeing a thread somewhere on here talking about it.

Security:
I've looked into this too.

First issue is a suitable switch. There are plenty around, but getting one a reasonable size is not as easy as I first thought. Consider where to mount the switch first, then try and get one to fit. My idea was to fit it in place of the FI light - and resite the FI LED to the bracing piece on the left of the FI light holder. If you didn't already know, the FI LED is very small and the original lens is small enough to be resited in a few places. You may want to fabricate a bracket that uses the handlebar mount bolts to secure it.

Next issue is relatively easy - what to wire to where!
I decided the best way was to isolate the fuel pump and starter.
As the fuel pump was permanently connected to earth/chassis, and the clutch switch was also permanently earthed, then these could be used - either using a 2 pole switch, where both circuits were separate, or use a suitable diode to prevent any backflow of current.

So, in theory, a not too difficult fix.
I understand that the ignition switch as fitted to the 449's will fit in the FI LED hole, but I've not tried it as I wanted to be more complex.

Call me obtuse if you like.
I don't like having my lights on all the time when off road, although I do ride with lights on when using tarmac. One of the first things I did was to wire in a switch so that I could have the lights on when I wanted to. As easy job as everything is wired back down to earth/chassis. A simple break of a wire at the front and rear, a toggle switch to connect them up and to earth and the job was done. Thinking I was looking forward, the switch hole was drilled in the brace part of the FI LED mount, as mentioned above, so the LED could be resited there.
My real issue is that I cannot find a 3 position switch small enough to go in the FI LED hole, so I have lights and ignition on the key (everything switched to earth - easy!). There is a supplier of aftermarket Harley parts that may have a switch suitable, but it is low on my priority list to go and have a look - I'd rather be riding the bike than playing with it at the moment!!

Drop me a PM if you need any more detail on my thoughts on this.

Mike
can you send a picture of where you mounted your key?

Thanks for the reply
 
Baja Designs has a key switch too.

A key switch just makes it so that you can't start the bike. If you want to do that, just put a switched ground on the kill switch line, so when you flip the switch the kill is permanently pressed. Hide the kill switch somewhere easy to reach but where only you will find it.

I think most stolen bikes are pushed/carried away, so locking it to something is a more secure solution.
 
Any of the xena disc locks work well, but try to keep them in a backpack not a tank/tail bag as the vibration can really mess them up.
 
Baja Designs has a key switch too.

A key switch just makes it so that you can't start the bike. If you want to do that, just put a switched ground on the kill switch line, so when you flip the switch the kill is permanently pressed. Hide the kill switch somewhere easy to reach but where only you will find it.

I think most stolen bikes are pushed/carried away, so locking it to something is a more secure solution.


I could be wrong here, but I recall reading somewhere that it's not a good practice to use the kill switch as an ignition switch because it effectively keeps the ECU alive and flattens the battery and the standby capacitor.
 
Footgeek said:
can you send a picture of where you mounted your key?

Thanks for the reply

Sorry - I still haven't been able to find a suitable key switch that will do both lights and ignition.
I intend to mount the key switch in place of the FI light.
The FI light will be relocated about an inch to the left of it's current position, on the diagonal brace part. The light won't be facing directly at me, but should still be visible. In theory anyway!

Mike
 
I could be wrong here, but I recall reading somewhere that it's not a good practice to use the kill switch as an ignition switch because it effectively keeps the ECU alive and flattens the battery and the standby capacitor.


I'd love to see a wiring diagram or info about this. That would not be the normal way a kill switch is wired, but who knows.
 
I'd love to see a wiring diagram or info about this. That would not be the normal way a kill switch is wired, but who knows.


The wiring diagram doesn't show much - the kill switch just puts an earth on to a pin of the ECU
My expertise doesn't go as far as ripping ECU's apart (not if I want them to work again!!)

Mike
 
Back
Top