• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc I feel like a nube

G

gazmcfaza

Husqvarna
AA Class
ok, two stroke you can't engine brake so I go through brake pads every few hundred miles front and back, problem is, once I've removed the pads out the caliper, the pistons are still stuck in position, to get them back in and fit new pads, I have to push really really hard against the disc usually. Is it because I'm not taking the caps off the fluid container/ master cylinder? I assumed if I did that all the fluid would spurt out the tops and I'd get air in the system. Also found these lextek pads, 3.90 for two, if you include three sets you can still get them for 2.95 postage! compare that to 6/7 pound for one set they seem like a bargain! http://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/partno_BP016K.php
 
You can use a couple of c-clamps and a small block of wood to copress the piston back into the caliper,I never cracked the master cylinder to do this job.Are your pads from China,scary!
 
Not sure of all your issues, but if you spread the pads manually, you are putting pressure on the system and you need to take the cap off the master cylinder to get the system back to where it should be ... These systems contain little fluid really and yes you might get some run-off (when you put the cap back on) but no air should be introduced in the system.

As far as china made stuff, here in the Philippines, we get real china-made stuff. Stuff that might not work but once. Stuff you will check at the check-out counter to ensure it works once. Stuff that might just breaks into 2 pieces or more quickly ... I've seen what looks like metal, just break in half. It has gotten so bad here, the GOV is stepping in to some degree due to crashes caused by faulty parts ...

With that in mind, a break pad has a metal backing that could break in half ....But you never know till you try ... I'd go with the rear ones first and if they did not break or whatever and performance was ok, then maybe the front. I stopped working yrs back and have to watch what I spend but you can't be too cheap where quality really matters.

--

I can understand you riding the rear brake and ruining those pads but not the front ... I was wearing rear pads out also way too quick, so I just quit using the rear brake so much. I was even gonna remove the petal to learn how to ride without so much breaking.

So I'm saying, consider changing your riding style. That's what I did and yep, less braking, means you are carrying more speed. More speed and you will need more skills. Beware and ride safe.
 
gazmcfaza said:
ok, two stroke you can't engine brake so I go through brake pads every few hundred miles front and back, problem is, once I've removed the pads out the caliper, the pistons are still stuck in position, to get them back in and fit new pads, I have to push really really hard against the disc usually. Is it because I'm not taking the caps off the fluid container/ master cylinder? I assumed if I did that all the fluid would spurt out the tops and I'd get air in the system. Also found these lextek pads, 3.90 for two, if you include three sets you can still get them for 2.95 postage! compare that to 6/7 pound for one set they seem like a bargain! http://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk/partno_BP016K.php
Click to expand...
dont you ride on the street? not sure i would use the cheap pads in that case.
 
Open the bleeder screw at the caliper before you push the piston back. This will keep from pushing old fluid back to the master cylinder and also make the piston easier to push back. Once you replace the pads you can work the brake pedal/lever a few times and add some fluid to the reservoir and you're done.
 
no, current pads are ''predator'' and some other good ones, I'm going to try just the chinese rear ones out to see how they hold up, I'm on road only yes, might be why I go through them fast. Thanks for tip about bleed screw, I'll do that next time
 
I would recommend opening the master cylinder, then pushing the caliper with the pads still in to retract the piston/s. Leave the rubber in place to avoid spills. Back-bleeding the master cylinder is a good thing, circulating fluid and pushing air out the top, often small amounts can enter during a tip-over. It is also usefull in that it moves the carrier on the pins to redistribute lube and help ensure even braking pressure between pads. After installing the new pads, suck out the old fluid in the m/c and replace with fresh. Pump up the system, and then go ahead and bleed several m/c's full to flush the whole system. Not cracking the M/C cap may be ok if no fluid was ever topped up, but is a bad habit and can lead to unwanted brake drag or lockup. On a streetbike it is downright irresponsible. You WANT to flush the brake fluid, anyway, to ensure the health and performance of the whole brake system.:thumbsup: Now, everyone go change your brake fluid!
 
Hey guys, I know it should probably be a new thread but.........

I am not an idiot but I accidentally undid the rear union (11 -12mm) on the back caliper line on the WR 144 the other day thinking it was the bleed screw and then pumped pedal to change fluid and then realised I had undone the union not the bleed valve(6mm). (idiot and yes I need glasses). Anyway I can't seem to get pedal pressure at all. I have taken whole assembly off bike and allowed to hang vertically overnight to rid air bubbles in system but still no luck. Is solution to get a vacuum pump of some description or am I missing something ?? I have tried to pull pistons from caliper but no luck.

Bike is a 2010 and minimal use, still on original chain and sprockets (need to replace). Bike is washed dried and light oil mist/wd40 over bike after every ride and most riding in dry conditions. Should of changed earlier but fluid still in pretty good condition.

On same bike has any one experienced fading and leakage from the nylon tubing joint going to front caliper ??

thanks in anticipation of a response.
 
No leaks / fading on my bikes... Not sure a leak is allowed on hydraulics brakes. These systems hold little oil and you are gonna run out quick even if they work correctly. Seepage around the top might be acceptable to some degree...

I'd guess you still have air there somewhere and back bleeding \ vacuum pump might be the fix ... I've made that same mistake before when opening that rear bleeder ... Air in the lines can be a real pain that I try hard to avoid...
 
gazmcfaza said:
no, current pads are ''predator'' and some other good ones, I'm going to try just the chinese rear ones out to see how they hold up, I'm on road only yes, might be why I go through them fast. Thanks for tip about bleed screw, I'll do that next time
Click to expand...
Predators are on my 360, check your calipers not seized on the pins they should slide and you should be getting more than a few hundred miles outta a set, theres a bit of engine breaking but not much, the best game i play is see how far you can go without touching the brakes. If your on the ball you will be suprised how unnecessary 60% of breaking is i dont look at the car ahead i look at the one infront of it that gives you better prediction of whats about to happen.
Also take mirrors off as this is a needless distraction if your gunna overtake do your death check Sorry "life saver" n go!
 
i am not a fan of taking mirrors off, but i guess in tight traffic it could help. i use my mirrors alot on the street, but always head check when changing lanes.
 
Ive not got mirrors or indicators been riding on the road for 5 years not one accident involving anyone else had a low side on ice my stupid fault had a caliper bolt shear and lock front on again no fault of mirrors.
I personally think they make you lazy i took them off because a close call where i thought it was clear but a bus was in my blind spot! A flipping bus... No mirrors i use my neck and eyes.

P.s. Local laws may apply dont f up your machine just cus you read a brit rides without them.
Do not emulate this if it puts you at risk of fines or po po attraction.
 
ah, I only use the husky at late eve time now due to shifts, the xt is my normal bike at 100 mpg compared to 30 :D I'm normally looking really far ahead anyway I'm just going fast enough that engine braking doesn't really do much, I tend to blip throttle through down changes and do a lot of clutch flicking
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top