• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

I did a boo boo

huskyista

huskyista

Husqvarna
AA Class
I was changing my for oil in my 50 mm Marzocchi forks for the 1st time on my 09 250 TE and, well-I could have done better. After reassembly, I must have had some oil holding out the inner rod because when I tried to readjust the compression rebound dampening, I couldn't hardly turn the screw in. To my discredit, I got a bigger screwdriver and used a little more force. This action broke half of the adjusting screw off.
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So, now I get to replace the whole fork cap. I am wondering if I did anyother internal damage. Has anyone else had a similiar experience or know of a similiar occurance and what was the outcome as far as internal damage? Any helpful insight will be appreciated. I hate hurting that wonderful machine.
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A non happy camper,
huskista
 
You say you broke off half the adjusting screw? Are you sure something else is not binding the screw from when U were working on it ? Maybe take it apart again and check it ... If my understanding is correct, that needle just screws in and out and blocks or opens a hole of some sort that the oil is metered thru ... I don't see how any of this could really happen unless that screw is bottomed out ... And in that case, just back it out some how ...

In any event, you might can still ride the bike ... just adjust the other side accordingly till a real fix is found ..

No pics?
 
I feel your pain... I'm going to have to replace a fork cap on my 09 250 TE as well. I accidentally over-torqued it and tore the crap out of it trying to get it off again. It got to the point where I just locked vice-grips on it as tightly as I could but they just spin and shred off aluminum. It still won't budge.

The good part is, I topped up my fork oil before putting it back together, so I can ride it until I need to take it apart again. Although, leaving it on there is driving me crazy. It's not like it's going to get any easier to get it off. Hopefully they're not too expensive, but I'm anticipating some sticker shock for my stupid mistake.

I just hope there's no damage to the threads in the slider.
 
That sounds bad also ... maybe you need a new pair of vice grips or maybe a pipe wrench? :) ... their jaws will cut into the cap maybe ad hold it... just get a new, smaller set and maybe put a pipe on the end for slow, even leverage ...keep the fork on the bike and hold it with the bottom clamps and loosen the top clamp by the cap ...

You might even could file on it and drive a socket onto it and back it off that way ... I'm really a shade tree guy... Can you tell?

Forks have aluminum pieces and other delicate stuff all over the place ... too loose is better than too tight ... Too loose and its leaks to show you the issue ... too tight is alot worst ...
 
File new flats and use a box end wrench.

If there is nothing left useful, drill 2 holes into the cap on opposite sides of the center, and insert some strong hex head bolts (do not have to be threaded, but should be a snug fit), then you can use long clamp or pipe wrench to unscrew the cap by using the new bolt heads as your new grip surface, now much wider apart for leverage. Buy a new cap and clean the fork fo all the drill hole scrap of course. Don't drill too far to the outside edge or you risk hitting your tube threads.
 
Happened to my friend, there is a set screw inside the fork cap that you can adjust. It might have gotten loose when you disassembling. Cut a new slot in the brass and you should be able to get a flat head srcew driver on it. It worked for us, and have not had a problem since.
 
top cap removal tips- dont even think of putting a wrench on it untill the top clamp pinch bolts are loose FIRST. use an alum wrench or one covered in elec tape/propper pin spanner (easy to make), saves on gurf marks etc. loosen the cap til finger tight then loosen lower clamp pinch bolts then slllllide it out.

inspect your damper rod for damages, cross-threads etc that will make attempts to adjust the rate ineffective.

you can also contact Marz by e-mail/phone for parts or service. these guys really do help and fast!!!
 
Call Les. Seriously, he doesn't charge to talk and can at least confirm how screwed you are or are not (pun intended ). He's a sponsor here (LTR) and is a God with zokes.
 
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