• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Husqvarna WR 360 200 Rebuild

EURO1215

EURO1215

Husqvarna
A Class
Hello everyone , wanted to share my rebuild. For now its just an connection rod that i payed 300€ for. i was very surprised when the original came and i compared it with the old one , it seems like the last owner already had the rod seized , soo he drilled a hole in it , put a bigger bearing , and did homemade tenon. soo last owner didnt wanted to spend money for the repair , and did this and expected that it will break in few months and wanted to get rid of it and sold it to me... heres few pics from my rebuild .)
when the bike will be finished ill be selling it
DSCF0367.jpg
 
Good effort, dont forget the shims on gear clusters upon reassembly otherwise you could cause binding in the gear box.
 
You've already got one of the hardest parts to find sorted now, so you can fix her up and have a darn good bike.
Put it back together with proper gaskets plus fresh seals ,bearings and piston and your set.
Just be careful if you lift out the gears as the end ones have loose needles and can fall off the shaft if you don't tie the cluster together.
You might also want to check out decompressor threads on here to make it easier to kick start once its been refreshed.
 
Okay , shims on gear clusters , thanks ! .)
okay thank you , i will try to be careful about the gears,--- i think one shim already falled and i hope its on the right place , does anyone have pic or schema how the gears should be with the shims and all the stuff ?
yes decompressor would be fine , might give it a look

another question --- i found in my mind is that if i need to make an break in procedure or something after the first start with new con rod ? or is it needed just when you replace piston ?
 
butchery is a shame
but once you get it right you might fall in love with the bike
ditto on the decompressor mod
trying to do one for my 99 360
 
Ive got a set apart at the moment will post pic with locations asap, just warming up feet on oil heater.
 
image.jpg
The important thing is the two shims on the right side of clutch stack gears. Ones wafer thin the others four times as thick.
Cant go too far wrong really as all diameters are different.
Any other pics needed??
 
image.jpg
Thats the same gear you wanna worry about loosing the needles from if i remember correctly theres about 31-36 of em.
The other set you can swing about allday its a cages needle roller then the rest are circliped on.
Also make sure the end gear has the chamfered edge of teeth towards the other gears otherwise you will bind them up and cause no end of bad juju to your engine.
 
Every bearing in the box! Good effort how did you get the clutch actuator on out i never did manage to replace mine..
Keep us posted on how it performs.
 





Gear box pics is without the new bearings .( was too rushy to take photos of the new ones
also not sure what is clutch actuator ?

 
You know the rod that goes all the way through the clutch gear set? It bares on a ball bearing clutch side and a rod on the other side the thing wich the clutch cable hooks onto. Thats the actuator in my book may be called something else.
 
oh ! thats the part i didnt even tryed to get out .D totaly forgot about that , maan sorry but i have no idea
 
Just being pedantic, i dont think anyone has a method to replace those without damaging the cases.
the top one maybe but the tiny needle roller at the bottom no got a clue.
 
Got her running today ! the piston is bit ringing ... which means ill buy one soon and replace it too. but otherwise everything sounded just good !
Did 1:30 , started it , it bit yelled from beggining and got okay again in 2 seconds, then waited bit more because it was running in high rpms , then i started to 1/3randomly push throttle for 5 minutes till it heated up. turned off , and gonna do the same tomorrow, also change an oil tomorrow and give it an test ride .)

 
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