• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Husky Wet 125 Idle Problems

D

DannyCoke14

Husqvarna
B Class
Hey all hoping someone has a little advice they can throw my way, brought a WRE 125 and after a few runs out it started to stall on idle (anything below 2k). I have not experienced this before so I’m not sure where the best place to start is and before I start removing things, I want to see if it’s something someone else has dealt with or knows about the problem.
Thanks is advance
 
Sorry, should have gave more info.
Carb is clear and clean I’ve been told that there could be a problem with the stator but with the only issue being that the bike stalls on idle I’m not convinced, the bike is fine once riding but as soon as you stop and the bike idles it dies but will kick straight up after no issues. To me it seems like air flow or fuel but can’t understand how.
 
DannyCoke14 said:
Sorry, should have gave more info.
Carb is clear and clean I’ve been told that there could be a problem with the stator but with the only issue being that the bike stalls on idle I’m not convinced, the bike is fine once riding but as soon as you stop and the bike idles it dies but will kick straight up after no issues. To me it seems like air flow or fuel but can’t understand how.
Click to expand...
recheck pilot jet. Remove it from the carburetor and blow compressed air through it. Make sure you see daylight through it. Then remove the air screw. Make sure you remember how many turns it was backed off from bottom (usually 1/2 to 1 and 1/2 turns with the right pilot jet), blow compressed air into the orifice that holds that screw. It should come out where the pilot jet screws in and also from the tiny pinhole in the throat of the carburetor where the vacuum draws the fuel out when the slide is at its idle position. When you are absolutely sure that all air and fuel passages in the pilot circuit are cleared, then you can move on. If you have done this procedure already, then you can move on to another system, such as engine compression or power valve dirty and stuck open or ignition problem. Does not sound like an ignition problem though. My Wr 125 stopped running at high RPMs and it was the igniter unit that had gone bad.
 
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If the pilot jet is clear I would then proceed with checking for an air leak. When an engine is at idle it relies upon an air tight system to maintain vacuum at the carb in order for the pilot-jet circuit to work. Small leaks typically don't affect operation above idle until the engine is pushed hard for an extended period where seizing is then likely. Air leaks can exist in the intake manifold system, at the base of the cylinder, or at one or both of the crank seals.

To test for leaks seal the intake and exhaust using rubber expansion plugs and apply 5 to 6 psi to the combustion chamber. It shouldn't drop anymore than a pound in five minutes. A spray bottle of water with a few drops dish soap will allow you to locate a leak source when bubbles form.
 
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