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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Husky 630 must do mods/list?
- Thread starter papi4baby
- Start date
jtemple
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Some leave the sensor in the exhaust, but the wires are disconnected at the other and and the jumper is in place. If you have law enforcement that looks for that sort of thing, the bike still looks like it has all that EPA garbage in place. If the sensor is still plugged into the wiring harness, the bike is not powered up.
organ donor
Husqvarna
Pro Class
We´ve got bi-annual checks here and the bike would not pass with the sensor removed as it would no longer comply with the original acceptance documentation.Same goes for non-legal pipes (the Arrows have an acceptance stamp). New EU laws stipulate that ANY change made by a buyer is now illegal!
jtemple
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Glad I don't live there! Our state motorcycle laws would blow your mind.
Passenger Age Restriction: None
Periodic Safety Inspection: None
Mirrors: None Required
Turn Signals: None Required
Radar Detector: No Restriction
Maximum Sound Level: No acoustical criteria/No Limit
Lane Splitting: Prohibited
Were those recent new EU anti-tampering laws passed?
organ donor
Husqvarna
Pro Class
So they tell me.
organ donor
Husqvarna
Pro Class
True!If you know the right guy those mods are no problem even in EU
CJBROWN
Husqvarna
AA Class
A few things we've discovered on these bikes:
- Brake fluid flush - some rears are notoriously dirty, dark.
- Clutch MC - some leaks contributed to overfilling or moisture infiltration. Check and flush with new fluid if required.
- Spokes - I got a quarter to a half turn on half of my spokes. I use the sound tuning method and as long as the rim is straight to begin with it stays straight.
- Coolant - some have reported dirty or discolored coolant. Worth a closer look. Don't over fill or it splashes out the overflow bottle.
- Fuel Pump - some reports of leaking. Check pump hold down screws for torque
- Suspension linkage - have zerks - grease them.
- Seat - the stock is a brick. Seat Concepts is a must-have if you do any distance and aren't an iron-butt.
- Electrical - the main 20a fuse has a spare in a holder but the smaller ones dont. I'm going to pick up a few spares for remote trips. I also did some tidy-up under the seat with some zip-ties.
- Wheels - rim locks if you're an offroader. If you run air pressure under 20lbs you run the risk of the rear tire slipping, front under hard braking too for that matter. Worse, if you get a flat and don't realize it then it's very easy to spin the tire and rip the valve stem off the tube. I personally think it's cheap and easy insurance, and the rim is already drilled.
- Airbox - drill a hole thru the flange along with the tube from the motor vapor vent and zip-tie it so it can't fall out. Apply non-sieze to the cover nuts/screws so they don't get frozen in there - makes a mess of the nutserts spin.
- Footpegs - replace mounting bolts. They have been known to snap off. 10.9 is the metric equivelant for grade 8.
- Gearing - they are geared too tall as built. A 14T counter works really well. Held on by a snap ring and can be removed and replaced with the clutch slave in place. Some are going up a couple of more teeth on the rear in addition, for more aggressive offroad riding.
- Handguards - chances are high the bike will get dropped sooner or later. If you don't want broken levers then handguards are in order. The cycra pro-bends work really well. Lots of other good choices. I've just gotten used to this style and have them on all my offroad bikes.
- Kickstand - as built it swings too far forward. Easy to add a stop bolted in behind the foot peg mount. Some have even built a custom kickstand.
- Oil Filter - the updated hiflow and kn filters from '09 up is the 563. The old one is 154. Use the new version for the newer higher pressure oil systems.
- Subframe - Mounting bolts tend to work loose and should be checked. And as mentioned, if you're going to install a rack or haul weight behind the seat then it needs to be reinforced or it WILL break.
- Chain guide - the stock one is a flimsy POS. And it is configured for a larger sprocket so the chain tends to rub on the upper part of the guide block which makes an annoying racket. So far I have removed the upper sandwich bolt and ground out some of the top of the block to eliminate chain rub so it runs quiet. An aftermarket chain guide cures this and they are much stronger for offroading.
- Front axle - recommended to remove it before you need to in the field. If the axle is over tightened it can be impossible to remove with the pieces in the tool kit. Grease it and don't over tighten.