• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Husky 430 clutch problems

M

Martint93

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi, my 1987 Husky wr 400 clutch won't free properly. i bought new friction plates and mounted . but before I used the bike the clutch stood still for about two and a half year. but this was dry.
when I finnaly got the bike back together the clutch still didn't free. but better than before I changed the friction plates. can't remember the first oil I ran.. changed oil after about a year to a 15w40. the clutch became a little better I THINK. but I can't stand still in first gear with the clutch in. I consantly have to give a little trottle or it will die out faster than fastest! :(

anyone know what can be wrong and what to do? the bike can not be used for slow wooden trails or city driving as it is now..

I have almost no free play on the clutch lever at the handlebar and not much on the engine lever.

regards Martin
 
it would appear that the plates may have a slight warp which still allows them to drag on each other when the lever is pulled in. do you have the "extended" lever? that may help as its a cm or more longer. is the clutch adjusted right at the clutch boss inside the cover? i found my wr had 50 washers slipped over the clutch cable because the last owner wasnt aware of the lock nut and screw adjuster in side. it had a lot of play! i use a light weight gear oil 90 and that seem to work well. i also remember my brand spanker 240 doing the clutch drag from new in 84. its a pain in the but especially after a ktm hydraulic clutch... soooo goood. Another trick i learnt years ago was with the early KDX's which came new wit ha dragging clutch (not very japanese at all) We had a sleve turned up so we could "face the inner clutch face flat as they were coming from the factory with a fair out of "flat" and causing the clutch to drag. a quick dressing with some 400# paper and then some 1500 got the face of the hub nice and flat which solved the clutch issues nicely.

may be try a couple of racing starts in 3rd gear and get some wear and heat into your plates? good luck!
 
This may or may not be of use.

That part the clutch cable turns in the right case can deform where it pushes on the rod that goes to the throw out bearing. remove a little machine screw and pull that part and the seal out and inspect. Actually that bore the shaft goes in can deform and was modified as time went on in the single cam section on here. That shaft started out as kind of a half round but got an extra angle somewhere between 1983 and 1988.

If you use engine oil you are supposed to use the kind that doesn't say energy conserving in the bottom of the rating circle. I bought a bike that the clutch stuck very tight after a day or so but was fine once broken loose. There was a thread about this phenomenon a while back. A few changes of John Deere Hy guard oil (fluid?) cured mine of that problem though it isn't what you describe.
 
When I got my 85 400WRX it had the same problem . The bike had low use clutch hardware in it but all the clutch plates were stuck togther. I had the cover off to do a corrosion issue so I cleaned all the clutch components, soaked them with engine oil(non energy conserving on label) and re asembled The seemed to take care of it. That is a common issue with engines that sit used for extended time
 
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