• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How to Re-Torque Crankshaft Nuts

S

ssaulnier

Husqvarna
AA Class
I see where the Husky tech manual suggests re-torquing the nut holding the flywheel a couple times after so much run time. What is the process? Do you loosen the nut and then torque back to spec? That is the only way I have heard to torque a nut or bolt. What good does that do? Does this process just seat the flywheel deeper on the crankshaft?

Note that I am not poo-pooing the need for re-torquing. I can see evidence on this bike where the nut got loose and the flywheel trashed the ignition stator. The stator mysterously went missing 25 years ago but you can see some scars on the flywheel.
 
I never loosen the nut unless i'm going to pull the flywheel. To check it, I just use my torque wrench to make sure it clicks over at the 51ft lbs setting.
 
I don't know if it is true or not but have heard some of the effects on that taper on the ignition side attributed to electrolisis. What does the manual say? something like re torque after 2 minutes then half an hour then two hours something kind of like that. They also tell you to use grinding paste like for seating valves if you are switching to a different one. I think it kind of creeps in on the taper that is why but doubt they do that for a new bike.
 
Thanks guys. I did lap mine with valve grinding paste when I replaced the ignition stator and flywheel. Then I torqued it to spec (dont recall the number - I looked it up in the manual).
 
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