• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How do I adjust a SM 610 clutch cable?

dualie

dualie

Husqvarna
AA Class
image.jpg Replaced the stock clutch cable with a Barnett cable. The clutch pull is now way harder than the stock clutch pull. Also, the clutch engages prematurely (near the grip) and slams or "clanks" into first gear. Here's a pic of the cable at the engine. image.jpg
 
There should be another adjuster about 1ft down the cable from the lever.

Regarding the hard pull. This should no be the case. Make sure the cable is not kinked or twisted anywhere
 
Thanks. However, the Barnett cable only allows for two adjustment points. One is at the clutch lever and perch and the other is as pictured at the engine side of the clutch cable.

Anyways, from what I've read online, if the clutch is engaging too soon when releasing the clutch lever, you should move the engine clutch lever adjustment nuts up the cable. As you can see in the pic, this is what I've done.

As far as the clutch resistance is concerned, I'm thinking to re-route the clutch underneath the bars, to see if that'll help with the resistance in the pull. Hey, and not that anything is extremely wrong with the resistance. It's just notably more resistant than the stock cable was.

Again, thanks for your help.
 
I thought that the Barnett cable was a little longer then the OEM one, therefor you could reroute it in a more "natural" route that made it a bit easier to operate?
I might be wrong though....:thinking:
 
dualie said:
Anyways, from what I've read online, if the clutch is engaging too soon when releasing the clutch lever, you should move the engine clutch lever adjustment nuts up the cable. As you can see in the pic, this is what I've done.
Click to expand...
And that's why it engages where it does. You've adjusted it to the "maximum slack" position. Put the lower adjustment in the middle and fine tune at the lever adjuster.
 
Thanks everyone, but in particular, thank you JonXX, as you answered my question more precisely. I will turn the lower nut(s) at the engine end of the cable, until it (they) reach the center of the adjuster thread, and then go from there for the remainder of the adjustment at the handlebar end of the cable.

18 Mar 2015 edit: Finally found the time and motive (upcoming season) to get it sorted. Works a treat now; just have to make minor adjustments at the clutch handle adjuster (perch) and I'm good to go.
 
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