• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Homemade Airbox Drain Valve

dfeckel

Husqvarna
AA Class
I've had a couple instances of drown-outs through moderately deep water crossings with my 2008 CR 125. In both instances, I got water in the carb. The first time, I had the stock carb vent line setup, so I just figured I sucked a little water through the low-hanging vent hoses. The second time, I had Uptite's carb vent filter installed, with a T'ed secondary vent line up in the airbox. So I doubt the water got in that way. I suspect some water got sucked up through the gaping airbox drain port.

I figured some sort of one-way drain valve, like a check valve, would work. That would prevent water going in, but it would let any water out should I REALLY submerge the bike.

My first thought was some sort of aquarium check valve, but Petsmart didn't have anything that would work. Then I thought about something from Home Depot, but decided to just make my own.

Here's what you need:

Children's Tylenol or similar tapered measuring cup
Floating foam or plastic ball (I used a ball from one of those cheapie elastic string paddle ball toys--my son will never miss it)
Safety wire
Silicone or epoxy or JB Weld

First, verify that the cup's diameter, measured at the bottom, is smaller than the ball's diameter.

Cut a large hole in the bottom of the cup so that the ball will seal against the hole.

Put the ball in the cup and run some safety wire to keep the ball from falling out.

CR125Airbox010.jpg


CR125Airbox008.jpg


You need to use a utility knife to cut a semicircle out of the bottom the airbox so the valve can insert. I used a combination of RTV and some epoxy to block the airbox's drain port and attach the new valve.

CR125Airbox014.jpg


CR125Airbox015.jpg


I had to trim away some of the bottom of the cup to clear the swingarm at full compression--you should pull the shock and verify that you have clearance. I will also safety wire the valve to either the mudflap or the airbox before I take it for a ride.

I tested the valve in the sink and it works great. It flows plenty of water going out, but not a single air bubble when I submerged it.

Hopefully this works--I'll update after my ride tomorrow--I'm sure I'll be finding water now that all the snow is melted...
 
I "think" you can also use a piece of a $7.00 1" air vac/vent ball check I use on irrigation systems. At least I think it would work. It's baciscally what you built. Way to fab., good job.
 
My fix doesn't completely seal the bottom hole, but slows water entry waaaay down. I cut a piece of 90 degree plastic from a package that some tie downs came in. Then cut 2 slots to fit the bolts that hold the mud flap on.
Remove the mud flap, install my fix, bolt the mud flap back on, done. It's worked pretty well for 2 years+

I'll take a pic and show it here if it's ok......
 
First I looked around the shop for something that would work and found a plastic holder package for tie downs.(1st pic)
Then I cut out a piece that would fit behind the mudflap, use the same bolts and mostly block the hole. (pic 2&3)
Pic 4 is a crappy pic of it on the bike.
It slides in between the edges at either side of the hole (pic 5)
 

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