• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Hey everyone!!

Husqy ripper

Husqy ripper

Husqvarna
A Class
Hello everybody! New to these bikes. So far I like my husqvarna.

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2 issues so far though

My right leg is so hot from exhaust even with boots. Definitely seems to run way too hot but never had overheated. Clutch has boiled over once in traffic. Perhaps 110 half and half with 93 to try to cool??

Second issue, gear shifting is so hard when bike is hot. Like hard to get into second. Even after fresh oil. I run the euro 0-40. Almost impossible sometimes when hot to shift.

Any Husqy guys ever hear of these issues or know remedies?
 

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What is "clutch boiling over" mean? Never heard such a thing. Also what is 110 half and half 93 mean? Octane rating of fuel? Octane has nothing to do with engine temp.

Shift problems can be many things but since you seam to have a problem with your clutch, i would start there.
 
Hot engine temps seem to be a function of the lean fueling by the factory map. So, I've noticed the bike is a leg cooker on both sides but especially exhaust. I wrapped mine with fiberglass and it helped quite a bit.

I'm also experiencing shifting problems. Oil type doesn't seem to make a difference, but oil level does. Less oil helps. Where is oil in your sight glass? The shifting thing is really quite annoying and I need to figure it out because it makes the bike very lame to ride. I keep hitting neutral and it's always when I really need to not hit neutral.
 
Yeah see you know exactly what I'm talking about. Neutral every time unless you jam up... Driving now will post more soon.
 
I have heard you can compensate lean with octane. Also mine supposedly has race map 3 but has o2 hooked up it looks like. Clutch lost pressure and I lost clutch until I began moving again and fluid cooled down below boiling... Don't get smart I'm not an imbecile...
 
Husqy ripper said:
Hello everybody! New to these bikes. So far I like my husqvarna.

View attachment 68966

View attachment 68967

2 issues so far though

My right leg is so hot from exhaust even with boots. Definitely seems to run way too hot but never had overheated. Clutch has boiled over once in traffic. Perhaps 110 half and half with 93 to try to cool??

Second issue, gear shifting is so hard when bike is hot. Like hard to get into second. Even after fresh oil. I run the euro 0-40. Almost impossible sometimes when hot to shift.

Any Husqy guys ever hear of these issues or know remedies?
Click to expand...

your shifting and clutch issue might be the same thing: air in the hydraulic clutch. Bleed/burp it, 'specially on the slave cylinder end. I think there has been a couple of threads on the clutch bleeding technique so do a search. OTOH, it's pretty much the same as brakes.

your octane fuel mix won't affect the heat unless you're racing with the engine at 99% all the time. Ensure that your cooling system is functional: full of coolant, flowing when it warms up, and the fan comes on. An engine that is overheated could exacerbate any hydraulic clutch issue also by causing expansion of existing air in the system. BTW, if your radiator is overflowing, keep an eye of the coolant level... there's only about a quart of coolant total.

good luck.
 
Thank you. Again no overheating no coolant loss, just a very hot running bike. I will search and try to bleed next. Will post results. Thank you.
 
Fan comes on always as well. Coolant churgles when bike starts as well so it is flowing. I think these bikes just run damn hot. I really don't think it is my clutch though because I can start it in gear when it is hot. But it is nearly impossible to shift. It would not start in gear if it was clutch related. Professionals can you confirm?
 
norma stitz said:
Hot engine temps seem to be a function of the lean fueling by the factory map. So, I've noticed the bike is a leg cooker on both sides but especially exhaust. I wrapped mine with fiberglass and it helped quite a bit.

I'm also experiencing shifting problems. Oil type doesn't seem to make a difference, but oil level does. Less oil helps. Where is oil in your sight glass? The shifting thing is really quite annoying and I need to figure it out because it makes the bike very lame to ride. I keep hitting neutral and it's always when I really need to not hit neutral.
Click to expand...

oil in my sight glass is on quarter full. You're exactly right Stitz you always find neutral when you need second so bad. Kinda scary when I am pulling out in traffic...
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
your shifting and clutch issue might be the same thing: air in the hydraulic clutch. Bleed/burp it, 'specially on the slave cylinder end. I think there has been a couple of threads on the clutch bleeding technique so do a search. OTOH, it's pretty much the same as brakes.

your octane fuel mix won't affect the heat unless you're racing with the engine at 99% all the time. Ensure that your cooling system is functional: full of coolant, flowing when it warms up, and the fan comes on. An engine that is overheated could exacerbate any hydraulic clutch issue also by causing expansion of existing air in the system. BTW, if your radiator is overflowing, keep an eye of the coolant level... there's only about a quart of coolant total.

good luck.
Click to expand...

I am having a difficult time finding the post. Can you please share. I have searched multiple terms, but haven't really seen the technique guide.
 
Husqy ripper said:
I am having a difficult time finding the post. Can you please share. I have searched multiple terms, but haven't really seen the technique guide.
Click to expand...

HR- keep in mind you have a Brembo Clutch Master Cyl (uses brake fluid) not a Magura (uses oil)

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/how-to-bleed-a-clutch-slave.5400/#post-64624
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/clutch-woes-keeps-going-spongy.81158/#post-541221
http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/how-to-brown-eye-be-gone
http://www.motorcycleforum.com/showthread.php?t=95924
 
Husqy ripper said:
oil in my sight glass is on quarter full. You're exactly right Stitz you always find neutral when you need second so bad. Kinda scary when I am pulling out in traffic...
Click to expand...

thats a little low IMNSHO. Use Mobil 1 0-40 (yep, Zero-40); might cure your shifting ills too. these bike are kinda sensitive to oil level; in addition they put the engine breather too low so engine oil tends to burp into the air cleaner (and come dripping out looking like air cleaner oil because it picked up dye)

btw, when you say the coolant "churgles" do you mean it's flowing past the filler neck with good speed, or is it bubbling out?
 
My '13 TE449 ran pretty hot. Like you, I put an FMF on it and that cooled it down some. Ant then I did the mod to force it into Race Map II. I've had no problems with my bike since then and it does seem to run cooler. Oh... And I put one of those carbon fiber pipe guards on it but I don't think that does much for heat.

As stated above, you may need to bleed your hydraulic clutch actuator. I think it's mineral oil but I could be wrong. I've never done mines.
 
Trenchcoat85 said:
thats a little low IMNSHO. Use Mobil 1 0-40 (yep, Zero-40); might cure your shifting ills too. these bike are kinda sensitive to oil level; in addition they put the engine breather to low so engine oil tends to burp into the air cleaner (and come dripping out looking like air cleaner oil because it picked up dye)

btw, when you say the coolant "churgles" do you mean it's flowing past the filler neck with good speed, or is it bubbling out?
Click to expand...

Flowing in the radiator but not coming out when cold. Trust me I am aware of the oil breather issue as well lol.
 
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