• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help with these valve readings please

EricV

EricV

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi Gang-

Hoping you’ll help interpret/guide me here. For whatever reason the nuances of this are difficult for me. I sure understand the mechanics of the assembly, but the nuances (interpreting the numbers, what loose and tight mean/outcomes, etc.) are beyond my experience. By the way I think I’m gonna need a better set of feeler gauges-what I’m using goes (for ex., in mm) .102, .127, .152, .178, etc. Here’s the info:

TE630 at 20,000 miles. Runs great/strong. Always been a little slow on stone cold start (but fires up on 1st push of button after a few revolutions. Hot starts fast.) Always a dead reliable bike. No smoking or any issues with it. My measurements.

Intake (spec. is .10 - .15mm):

Right- .102 fits easy/feels just right. .127 leaf is no go at all (so perhaps I’m at about .11)
Left- .102 fits easy/feels a little loose. .127 leaf no go at all.

Exhaust (spec. .15 - .20):

Right- .11. The .127 is no go and the .102 is of course loose.
Left- .152. The .178 is no go and the .127 is loose.

Is the right exhaust number worrisome? Not sure what that indicates. I’ll of course set it right.

Should I go with “mid-range” set on all? For example: set intakes at .13 and exhausts at .17? Not sure if it’s better to set towards lower or higher number of these ranges.

Thanks for your patience and help!

Eric
 
Let me see if I can add these pics. Please tell me if the exhaust lobes are out of the way enough. I couldn’t get the two dots perfectly aligned w/ the notch- they’re about 0.5 cm forward of the notch. If you look closely at the 2nd pic you’ll see the dots. Looks to me as though they’re all positioned fine.00C4400C-23F1-471C-8B14-67EE04C046B6.jpeg41061D73-243A-4BF9-B446-D5E27230B161.jpeg
 
It just indicates that right valve/seat has worn a little,that is why valves are checked regularly. There are different opinions should it be on loose side,or tight side. In 610 i can hear valves if its loose so adjust them in tighter side but that might need more frequent adjustment. Clearances are always going in tighter direction,unless cam/follower are wearing. Middle of road should be good enough.
 
Do you have previous check measurements to compare them to?

At this point I'd fix the one that is tight and check again in a couple thousand miles.

.
 
Thanks guys.

Bob- I’m embarrassed to say I don’t have the previous measurements. Some may recall I was the one that had to have my engine casings replaced when my secondary (rt. side) oil screen came apart. That was about 10K miles ago, and I forgot to ask the guy who reassembled the engine what they were set at.

On advrider one guy responded to say that low exhaust measurement (.11) is a sign of the seat wearing, which makes sense. I’m curious why that one is so different, and what that may be indicative of. May not mean that much, seeing as I took this valve check out too long (shouldn’t have, but things seemed to be running fine/strong- I guess b/c the intakes don’t seem way off.)

In other news back-ordered part situations bite. :) My intake boot (airbox to throttle body) is cracked at the mating area to the TB. Part isn’t expensive- but Hall’s is saying back-ordered so approx. 1-3 months. Bummer on that, given that the weather here will be getting better soon. If it takes over a month I’ll squirt some sealant in the crack and a thin strip of duct tape over it, and the clamp over that.
 
I would maybe open the tight one just a touch and leave the rest as is.

You will find the adjustment process is not going to result in 10ths of a thousand of an inch accuracy. Maybe just back off on the locknut and re-tighten and then measure. It might be enough.

Once you loosen the locknut all the way the adjustments go all over the place. After you adjust turn the motor over a few times by hand to see if it stays constant.
 
R_Little said:
I would maybe open the tight one just a touch and leave the rest as is.

You will find the adjustment process is not going to result in 10ths of a thousand of an inch accuracy. Maybe just back off on the locknut and re-tighten and then measure. It might be enough.

Once you loosen the locknut all the way the adjustments go all over the place. After you adjust turn the motor over a few times by hand to see if it stays constant.
Click to expand...

Thanks fella. Now on the 630 it's a bit different w/ the overhead cams. You remove a clip to slide the lifter outta the way and then swap shims. Still, though, I get your point so again thanks.

It's my understanding that the tolerances will get smaller as time goes by (wearing of valve seats) so- since I am in there anyway right now- I think I'll set the intake gap to .13 and the exhaust gap to .18.
 
Uhm are we sure that valve seats wear THAT much over time? I mean some wear is understandable but they are made of steel and shouldn't be able to eat themselves over time. I always found that the valves on my 610 were actually loosening over time, and I had to tighten them back to spec (0.05mm intake/0.10mm ex).
 
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