• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

help with 74 and older rear swingarms.

Matt Cummings

Matt Cummings

Husqvarna
B Class
I have a 1972 250 that is soon to go off to the power coating shop but before it goes I need to have all the parts ready and my swing arm is a real problem.
The bushings are stuck and when I went to use a press to remove them the arm was giving before the bushing.
So I found some without a bushings and one is from a 1976. Exactly the same mounting point to the engine only differences are, its an inch overall longer and the shock mounts are 2 inches closer to the front. This would make my shocks sit straight up. Shocks that I have are 12.5 eye to eye.
How much will this effect my bike? Positive negative? Suspension travel?
Bike needs to go to the painters asap but I don't want to paint a part I can't use.

Thank you in advance for the help guys.
 
I would not use the 76 swingarm. You can repair your 72 swingarm. You may need to use a torch to melt the rubber inside so you can remove the sleeve for the swingarm pivot. This will allow you to focus on the bushing pressed into the swingarm ends. When pressing out the outer bushings, you need to support each end individually from the inside or you will bend the pivot ends in. Heating the ends to remove the inner sleeves might help you to remove the outers. Apply PB Blaster or similiarand allow to soak in. Even better, try this; Have the ends as clean as possible. Get 2 small plastic containers ( deep enough to cover the ends) and make a mixture of ATF and acetone. Pour enough into the containers to cover the ends, Stand the swingarm rear up, swingarm pivots down, and slide up against a wall or bench to keep the arms verticle.

Let it soak for a few days . If you have a Dremel, you can use a sphere burr to thin a track from inside to outside. That can reduce enough to allow you to knock them out with a drift
 
Ill have to try that. Thank you for the advice.

I asked John at vintagehusky and he said the 75 and up swing arms will NOT work. Even if they look the same they are different where they connect to the frame, I will have to fix mine. If I can't fix mine myself I'll have to send it off to him.
 
It can be done with a little work.Shock position is fine.You do get a longer wheel base,which is a good thingIMG_6992.JPG
 
I'd be the last guy to debate John at Vintagehusky...
However...I've had a GP frame swing arm on my 74 125WR since the late 70's.
My guess is that swing arm was from a 1976.
I recall I had to trim about 1/8" from both sides of the 125 frame swing arm mount tubes...did it very carefully with a hack-saw...sorry...I was a bit of a shade tree mechanic...but it turned out fine.
Now, if yours slots in without that trimming...all the better!

The 76 S/A has needle bearings sealed with O rings. A bit longer wheelbase. A bit more rear wheel travel. You'll probably want a bit stiffer shock spring. Same S/A bolt as 125.
 
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