• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Heavier flywheel for the TE449

Husky Bob

Husky Bob

Husqvarna
B Class
In the slow stuff I have to work the clutch of my 13 te449 all the time and I find working the throttle a little jumpy.

I think that a heavier flywheel is the answer but there is very little info on this.

I can't even find out what the stock flywheel weighs.

Has anyone any experience with this?
 
No one makes one or a weight kit, yet.

Might want to drop a tooth or two on the front sprocket if you like playing in the slow stuff.
 
That does seem to be the general approach to solving the problem but, of course, one loses top end and the smaller sprocket doesn't smooth out the throttle control.

Its not that I only play in the slow stuff but I like to mix it up and I believe that the te449 has the goods to do it all.

'm thinking of approaching an engineering firm to have one made up. I don't know how technical a component a flywheel is. Maybe they could take a stock item and replicate it with a thicker wall?
 
One design reason the flywheel might be a little light is the clutch is mounted directly to the crank at the other end.
It adds mass to the crank, until you pull in the clutch & effectively make it lighter by releasing the plates.
After today's ride on mine, I'm going to drop sprocket ratios from standard, I've been trying to compromise too long & do more tight work than 6th gear sections.
 
PawPaw said:
You may want to look into a Rekluse clutch. It works great !

Paw Paw
Click to expand...

thanks for the info. I'll look it up. I'd like to hear from anyone who has dropped a tooth or two on their front sprocket. Did it work for them as they hoped it would?
 
Dangermouse449 said:
One design reason the flywheel might be a little light is the clutch is mounted directly to the crank at the other end.
It adds mass to the crank, until you pull in the clutch & effectively make it lighter by releasing the plates.
After today's ride on mine, I'm going to drop sprocket ratios from standard, I've been trying to compromise too long & do more tight work than 6th gear sections.
Click to expand...

If I follow your explanation then a slightly heavier flywheel will keep the crank turning easier when no throttle is applied which means one could go slower than with a stock flywheel before having to clutch in. The downside would be that breaking under engine compression would be slightly less because of the greater kinetic energy in the flywheel. If that is so then I could live with that - 1st gear has enough compression to give some up and still have enough left.

Please let me know your impressions of the smaller front sprocket after a couple of rides.
 
It would help keep it turning at low rpm and smooth out in between power pluses.
(Its what they do for MX engines to do enduro sometimes)
I don't think it would change the actual engine braking too much.
For sure, soon as I organise my new sprockets etc, I let you know.
 
Husky Bob said:
thanks for the info. I'll look it up. I'd like to hear from anyone who has dropped a tooth or two on their front sprocket. Did it work for them as they hoped it would?
Click to expand...
I tried a 14t and then now have a 13t. For the slow stuff and most of the trails around here the 13 is perfect. Make it a lot easier to lug around and up and over rocks and whatever. I almost never stall.

The 13t is pretty low for the street though, wouldnt want to have to go too far from house to trail.
 
Suggest you go the rear sprocket route rather than the front. Chain lasts longer.
I am surprised however as the 449 has heaps of grunt. Just go 2 extra teeth on the rear, that is slightly less impactive than 1 tooth on the front.
 
Dangermouse449 said:
I thought Rekluse etc were slipper clutches for motard use?
Click to expand...

DM no mate the Ben Grabbens etc use them in the Finke Desert race , enduro's and one of the guys we use to ride with had one in a 510 sherco for bush riding , still had the clutch lever just seemed to put the power to the ground , and better cornering.
 
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