• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Heads Up: Fork Cap Screws (Rebound) broke

dartyppyt

dartyppyt

Husqvarna
Pro Class
My bike (08 WR250) has been sitting for 4-5 months and bet only have 3 trail rides on her this year. About a month ago, I went to click the Fork Cap rebound clickers and the side of the brass screw broke off. Now I have no way to adjust them. Then like a dummy went to click the other side and same thing happened. They were originally on the 6th click. From the bike sitting they got corroded and siezed up. I called the shop and they have seen it happen on older models. Guess the brass, aluminum, o-ring get corroded. There might have been some water sitting in then after the last time I washed it. New caps are around $83 a piece. Next time I let the bike sit I will shoot some WD40 in the top to keep them wet. I printed off the Marzocchi manual and noticed an allen screw/spring/ball bearing under the cap. I backed out the allen a little so I could turn them.

Hate to see this happen to anyone else!:banghead:

Thanx

Typpyt
 
Thanks for the heads up.

I just took a look at my 2006 TE250 and it indeed has a brass screw into aluminum, but mine still turns fine. Is there something different about your forks design that may have made it more susceptible to the screw seizing up?
 
I had the same thing happen on my old 360. But you could buy the screw seperate for like $8. It had the same setup as what you were talking about in the marzocchi manual.
 
I think that the last time I cleaned my bike, there must have been some water in around the screw and the aluminum cap. From sitting it must have corroded and seized. The dealer did say that I was not alone and has seen this happen.

The next time I will use air to blow the water out and shoot some WD 40 in it. I also might try some anti seize around the screw and try to pack it in the area between screw and aluminum.

HuskyMax: Where did you get the screws? The dealer told me that I had to buy the whole cap. I would think that they are just pushed in with an o-ring to seal them off.

I just purchased a horse for my wife for our anniversary and it has a screw loose!

Typpyt!
 
dartyppyt;49618 said:
I think that the last time I cleaned my bike, there must have been some water in around the screw and the aluminum cap. From sitting it must have corroded and seized. The dealer did say that I was not alone and has seen this happen.

The next time I will use air to blow the water out and shoot some WD 40 in it. I also might try some anti seize around the screw and try to pack it in the area between screw and aluminum.

HuskyMax: Where did you get the screws? The dealer told me that I had to buy the whole cap. I would think that they are just pushed in with an o-ring to seal them off.
I just purchased a horse for my wife for our anniversary and it has a screw loose!

Typpyt!
Click to expand...

Correct. I have my old one somewhere, I will try to find it and take a picture. I took a piece of brass and threaded the end, then drilled and tapped the adjuster and loctited the two together.

I ordered mine from Ridersville cycle. http://www.ridersvillecycle.com/index.htm
 
Looks like I am now fixed. Talked to Fran @ Bottones(ACE, Great Customer Service). He only showed the caps as being available but recommended that I call Marzocchi before purchasing them @ $83 a piece.

I talked to a Mike @ Marzocchi USA (Great Customer Service). He faxed me a schematic of my forks and guess what? The rebound screw with an o-ring is available. So for a large some of $22.00, they are in the mail. It is recommended that they are installed with a little anti-seize lubricant or grease.
Also, I will be shooting a little WD 40 around them especially after washing the bike.

Thanx Fran and everyone else for your help! Saved about $140.00

Will let you know how the install goes!

Typpyt
 
dartyppyt;49773 said:
Looks like I am now fixed. Talked to Fran @ Bottones(ACE, Great Customer Service). He only showed the caps as being available but recommended that I call Marzocchi before purchasing them @ $83 a piece.

I talked to a Mike @ Marzocchi USA (Great Customer Service). He faxed me a schematic of my forks and guess what? The rebound screw with an o-ring is available. So for a large some of $22.00, they are in the mail. It is recommended that they are installed with a little anti-seize lubricant or grease.
Also, I will be shooting a little WD 40 around them especially after washing the bike.

Thanx Fran and everyone else for your help! Saved about $140.00

Will let you know how the install goes!


Be careful when you put the set screw in the side of the cap. I overtightened mine and that is what caused the adjuster to break. The spring was putting to much pressure on the ball bearing.
Click to expand...
 
Excellent pointer!

I do not want that to happen again. I tore the caps apart last night.

Those brass rebound adjusters thread up in the cap with an o-ring on them. I had to really work at turning them out without damaging the aluminum. You should have seen all the crud down in them and it is no wonder why they siezed up. I also hit the inside with some 600 grit sand paper to clean up the hole it turns in. I will definately use anti sieze when re-assembling. This is going to become part of my annual go through in the winter. I will put the adjusters back in and tighten the allen screw just enough to make it click just right.

Hope everyone reads this because it seems to be an issue.

Thanx Typpyt
 
Team,
Got my rebound adjusters last night from Marzocchi and I installed them. I made sure I coated around o-ring with anti sieze compound and will definately hit them with air gun/ shoot them with WD40 after each wash. I took real care when adjusting the allen set screw against spring and bearing. They work great and In fact better than what you could originally turn them. Thanx for all the advice! Back In Business Again! Hope this is doesn't happen to anyone else!

Typpyt
 
dartyppyt;50537 said:
Team,
Got my rebound adjusters last night from Marzocchi and I installed them. I made sure I coated around o-ring with anti sieze compound and will definately hit them with air gun/ shoot them with WD40 after each wash. I took real care when adjusting the allen set screw against spring and bearing. They work great and In fact better than what you could originally turn them. Thanx for all the advice! Back In Business Again! Hope this is doesn't happen to anyone else!

Typpyt
Click to expand...

Glad you're running again.I guess this is a lesson to all of us that only ever have to touch our adjusters infrequently. All mine moved ok last week but I'll make an effort to give them a squirt of WD and a rotation out and back whenever I remember.
 
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