• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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125-200cc having spark issue, possible stator/coil need help

trailblazer84

trailblazer84

Husqvarna
A Class
Hey fellow riders
ive got a 1996 Husqvarna wr360 and it used to run ok then it become hard to start and I had to run start it to warm it up then it would kick start and last ride it went alright then I started it up a while later used the fuel in the carb as I was storing it for a while then left it in shed for a couple of weeks and went to start it again and it had no spark then today I ripped off tank and got to looking and found it sometimes has a weak looking spark and other times nothing, my main question really is does anyone know the resistance specs for the stator and coil as I cant for the life of me find it anywhere on the net or in my manual, also if it helps it kind of surges a bit at idle sometimes/maybe all the time I kinda got used to it though it has done that since I got it and its always run fine for many rides until the more recent times though I thought that to be due to jetting from the into I was seeing when searching about that a while back and my bike does need a slight tune but that isn't the issue it should still run even if bad but it isn't sparking and starting at all

the stator was reading at 123.6 ohms between the dark blue/light blue wire but nothing between the yellow and others (yellow seems to go to my key) but I had some issue getting it to read the 123.6 ohm so I'm unsure if bad contact (wires are clean) or a stator fault, and the blue wires was not earthing out when touched a lead onto a earth but the yellow (key wire) does get a reading of 0.9 ohm when touching one wire onto that and one onto earth

and my coil if I'm testing it right is reading around 0.1 ohms on one test and 17k on the other (plug cap side) but I'm not sure if I'm testing it correctly as my coil looks nothing like the ones on any "testing coil" videos of seen on youtube

ahh sorry if this makes no sense or if I'm missing anything I know next to nothing about this side of the bikes I know mechanicals but not electrical so if I'm doing something wrong or you need some specific details I'm missing out let me know what/how to find out and i'll get back to you with the details if I can thanks in advance guys

edit: I just went out and looked at the voltage regulator as I watched a couple vids on how to test that but it has only 1 wire coming from it and that goes upto the key switch and is also spliced into the lights so I have no idea how to test that or if that has anything to do with it, also I noticed another small black box (looks like a larger version of a relay in a car) that has wires that plug into the other end of the wires that come from the stator and 2 other wires that go somewhere also lol
 
When the motor gets worn and tired they just get real hard to start and run bad.
New piston, bearings and seals plus a new carb needle make a big difference.
otherwise
have you done all the usual checks first?
-spark plug cap lead connection
-clean earth on the coil mount
-clean wiring connector joints
-kill switch and wiring checked for chaffing earthing out
-have the coil mounted so the high tension lead runs back away from the CDI unit
the black box is the CDI unit for the ignition system
-check the rotor stator area is clean and dry
what condition are your main bearings and seal in? any movement is bad.
-check there is no contact on the wire cables leaving the stator out around the case by the rotor
-check the wire solder joints to the coils on the stator, i think some body found one of these broken before.

I couldn't find any ohm values in my manual either

I ended up getting a 250 stator for my 2002 360 when it lost spark when ever it got hot.
I got it on Ebay from Poland and they also have the CDI there as well.

some one else my have some ohm readings and wisdom.

Unfortunately our older bikes require the ritual sacrifices of time and money.

Good luck
Mike
 
its had a full top end rebuild with only around 10-15 hours on it and has ran perfectly for 5 odd rides since rebuilding and only just started to become hard to start the last 3 or so rides and once its started (until the latest attempt it had 0 spark) it ran fine once warm and I havnt had time or got round to testing half of those things you mentioned but I'm just trying to rule out the things I can test easy like stator/coil as both of those are not exactly cheap, but from what I'm seeing around the net they seem to be ok but without knowing the specs I have no idea for sure before searching further or spending money

I did read on another post someone said there 2000 wr360 stator was, Yellow to earth - 0.7 ohm, LIGHTING COIL, Dark blue to Light blue - 127.5 ohm, PULSE COIL.... well myn seems to be reading 0.9 ohm and 123.7 ohm but I'm not sure if that means myn is ok or not without knowing specs at this stage, what are the chances if on Monday I rang a Husqvarna dealer they might look up and tell me the info?
 
You've done the obvious and checked your ht lead and got non suppressed plug cap and plug in?
I've had the resistors in the plug cap break down and gives a weak spark .
 
ahh well as I said I know stuff all about this part of motorbikes, I'm not sure what type my plug cap is or how to test it but I did the coil check if that's what you mean and I'm getting 17k ohms from within the cap with it connected to coil? I know that's a coil check but my thoughts are if my cap wasn't any good or at fault it wouldn't read well ? haha ive got no idea though correct me if I'm wrong or tell me how to test my cap :)
 
That may be your issue the plug cap should be either 5k or un suppressed.
Check your plug cap without it on the coil.
Then throw it away.
 
ah how do I check it without the coil? also if its at fault will a cap of any other bike work say of a 200cc 4 stroke or will I have to get a specific one for my bike? also I googled suppressed and non suppressed caps and myn looks more like non suppressed if that helps?
 
Unscrew the cap from the ht lead it's a corse wood thread.
Then test that.
Yes plug caps are universal as far as I'm aware they are generally UN resisted or 5kohm.
I always remove the suppressed caps and the plugs as I had an issue with one right when I first started riding and was stranded in the boonies scratching my head.
Ended up unwinding the plug nipple and bareing some ht wire then acting that round the plug top an securing it by winding the nipple back to it.
Dodgy as hell but got back.
 
so if mine is a non suppressed is that still likely my problem? I'm guessing since with the cap on the lead I can get a 17k reading when testing the coil that its ok if not suppressed and getting a decent reading?

edit: from a quick online look I test the plug with multimeter sticking a pin in each end of plug? if so myn seems to be reading 4.91 when meter is set to 20k ohm range so I'm not sure what sort of plug I got and if its at fault haha?
 
That will be 5k plug cap.
No if your plug cap was un suppressed then that wouldn't of been the issue just rules that out.
4.9 is fine i think.
Have you tried another cap just in case, chasing intermittent faults is frustrating as hell.
May be time for a pvl or hpi set up
 
trailblazer84 said:
Hey fellow riders
ive got a 1996 Husqvarna wr360 and it used to run ok then it become hard to start and I had to run start it to warm it up then it would kick start and last ride it went alright then I started it up a while later used the fuel in the carb as I was storing it for a while then left it in shed for a couple of weeks and went to start it again and it had no spark then today I ripped off tank and got to looking and found it sometimes has a weak looking spark and other times nothing, my main question really is does anyone know the resistance specs for the stator and coil as I cant for the life of me find it anywhere on the net or in my manual, also if it helps it kind of surges a bit at idle sometimes/maybe all the time I kinda got used to it though it has done that since I got it and its always run fine for many rides until the more recent times though I thought that to be due to jetting from the into I was seeing when searching about that a while back and my bike does need a slight tune but that isn't the issue it should still run even if bad but it isn't sparking and starting at all

the stator was reading at 123.6 ohms between the dark blue/light blue wire but nothing between the yellow and others (yellow seems to go to my key) but I had some issue getting it to read the 123.6 ohm so I'm unsure if bad contact (wires are clean) or a stator fault, and the blue wires was not earthing out when touched a lead onto a earth but the yellow (key wire) does get a reading of 0.9 ohm when touching one wire onto that and one onto earth

and my coil if I'm testing it right is reading around 0.1 ohms on one test and 17k on the other (plug cap side) but I'm not sure if I'm testing it correctly as my coil looks nothing like the ones on any "testing coil" videos of seen on youtube

ahh sorry if this makes no sense or if I'm missing anything I know next to nothing about this side of the bikes I know mechanicals but not electrical so if I'm doing something wrong or you need some specific details I'm missing out let me know what/how to find out and i'll get back to you with the details if I can thanks in advance guys

edit: I just went out and looked at the voltage regulator as I watched a couple vids on how to test that but it has only 1 wire coming from it and that goes upto the key switch and is also spliced into the lights so I have no idea how to test that or if that has anything to do with it, also I noticed another small black box (looks like a larger version of a relay in a car) that has wires that plug into the other end of the wires that come from the stator and 2 other wires that go somewhere also lol
Click to expand...

This would have to be in the running for worlds longest sentence TB! Every chance you'll get a call from Guiness book of records. ;)
 
I would replace both the plug and the cap, they are cheap and it would rule them out. Quit messing around with the cheap stuff, they are not worth your time.
 
well the plug is new (and ive tried another) and seems cap is ok but I will replace those first of course, so really I think I know what the possible faults are now the only thing I really need to know is if anyone knows the specs for the stator as that's the most expensive to fix so id like to try rule out mine being faulty if I can or at least find out for sure its faulty for sure

anyhow to recap myn is reading as follows:
Stator
Yellow to earth - 0.9 ohm, LIGHTING COIL
Dark blue to Light blue - 123.7 ohm, PULSE COIL

Coil
1.2 ohm and 12.7k ohm without plug cap (around 17k with it connected)

so if anyone can let me know if there within range or what the actual range is would be appreciated, or point me into the right direction to find such info as my manual don't tell me and any online search is coming up empty at this point
 
ok well I'm still chasing those specs so I can double check but I just went out the shed now its night time and in pure darkness theres a small blue spark not like a arc coming of it to the engine but a small blue ball if that helps, also is there a way to cut the HT lead without ruining it as its a fixed lead coil and I'm thinkin it may be the cap/lead but the lead is slightly slopped and I'm not 100% sure its not loosing contact with the cap at times so id like to rule that out if I can?
 
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