• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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Has anyone lightened the flywheel of their TE610?

Stolenfant

Husqvarna
A Class
Spent the weekend in mountains with large group and noticed how the other 4stroke bikes could easily loft their front wheels with blip of throttle (WR's, KLR's DR's, DRz's of course EXC's). Although I had no problem keeping up on street, gravel, or rockpiles, it would have been nice to lighten the front in a few of the rock climbing sections and prior to water crossings. The "tractor-like" low end made climbing VERY easy, but it would be nice to be able to loft the front a bit.
Bike is 09 TE610, 8k miles, no engine mods, and -2 on rear sprocket. Tires were new Pirelli MT21's, and traction was usually excellent.
A couple KTM riders use flywheel weights to smooth out their power application. Are lighter flywheels available, and has anyone tried them?
Thanks
 
Gearing plays a huge role. You are -2 on the rear but I know many that end up +2 to +4 on the rear for mountain riding. Make lofting the front easy. My riding partner (both of us have SMS630) is +4 on the rear and his bike lofts and wheelies anywhere. On my CRF450 I am +2 for singletrack. Hope this helps. Cam.
 
You want a 14/46 gearing for that kind of riding. Also some mods to the bike will help, like a JD, slip on, filter mod, etc...
 
thanks guys. My bad on the wording. I'm +2 not -2 on rear. Rear was just installed when I bought bike 1000 miles ago and still looks new, so I'm buying new chain and 14/47 sprockets. I do a bit more street than you do 1lunger. I may get a 15 front as well and swap them for weekday/weekend riding. If I do I realize I need to swap evenly. Looking into the JD also. Filter mod looks very simple. May gut the catalytic converter while I've got bike down and clutch at Indy for spring washers.
 
The throttle response on my SM610 is just as snappy as any other 4 stroke I've owned.

Better for sure than my 2010 TE250
 
The next time my 610 is apart, I plan to remove 3 ounces from the flywheel (if I did the math right). I'll report with my findings (hopefully not the price of a new flywheel/reluctor unit!).
 
It will remain perfectly balanced (well, within .001 gram anyway), it's the harmonics that I'm most worried about. There's more than one reason the flywheel weighs what it does.
 
It will remain perfectly balanced (well, within .001 gram anyway), it's the harmonics that I'm most worried about. There's more than one reason the flywheel weighs what it does.

Jon, what is your reason for lighter flywheel? I'm going to do the JD Tuner mod and play with a little more low and midrange fuel to see if that makes lofting the front end a bit easier.
 
The Husky has a longer wheelbase, which helps in loose gravel, 1" more than a KLR and more weight in the front. That makes a wheelie a bit slower.

It is more about riding technique. Lift your butt a little, then sit down while yanking the bars with full throttle and the front wheel will come up, no problem.
 
Jon, what is your reason for lighter flywheel? I'm going to do the JD Tuner mod and play with a little more low and midrange fuel to see if that makes lofting the front end a bit easier.

I want it to spin up just a little bit faster for punching out of the corners a bit better and have just a little bit less rotating assembly momentum for quicker decel on the track (mine is an SM). If it works how I want it to, I'll have a light flywheel for summer street riding and the track and a heavy flywheel for the winter/woods riding. The cover comes off twice a year for inspection and maintenance anyway (I've had this '07 two and a half years and I have put 30,000 miles on it for a total of 34,7) so swapping flywheels twice a year isn't that big of a deal.
 
I want it to spin up just a little bit faster for punching out of the corners a bit better and have just a little bit less rotating assembly momentum for quicker decel on the track (mine is an SM). If it works how I want it to, I'll have a light flywheel for summer street riding and the track and a heavy flywheel for the winter/woods riding. The cover comes off twice a year for inspection and maintenance anyway (I've had this '07 two and a half years and I have put 30,000 miles on it for a total of 34,7) so swapping flywheels twice a year isn't that big of a deal.
Keep me posted, that was my original reason too. Being a two stroker at heart, I was accustomed to modulating wheel spin with the clutch. Admittedly, I'm enjoying this "tractor" four stroke thing too. :D
 
The Husky has a longer wheelbase, which helps in loose gravel, 1" more than a KLR and more weight in the front. That makes a wheelie a bit slower.

It is more about riding technique. Lift your butt a little, then sit down while yanking the bars with full throttle and the front wheel will come up, no problem.
Yes, that much throttle will the front up, but the goal is to do so without full throttle like when picking your way through a rocky incline. Too much throttle (and only one finger on the clutch, and you get this) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lWDaiRy8I0&feature=plcp Watch the left knee, it's rather ugly:eek: . This was the forth pass, and the goal was to pause attop the log, but I only had one finger on the clutch this pass, and couldn't get disengage it before rear wheel dropped over and tail hit.
Summation, a TE610 is NOT a trials bike :D:D You'd think at 50 I would know they by now. BTW, you are exactly correct about long wheelbase being a big factor. I don't think I'm going to try "stoppies" to change direction on downhills either.
 
Yes, that much throttle will the front up, but the goal is to do so without full throttle like when picking your way through a rocky incline. Too much throttle (and only one finger on the clutch, and you get this) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lWDaiRy8I0&feature=plcp Watch the left knee, it's rather ugly:eek: . This was the forth pass, and the goal was to pause attop the log, but I only had one finger on the clutch this pass, and couldn't get disengage it before rear wheel dropped over and tail hit.
Summation, a TE610 is NOT a trials bike :D:D You'd think at 50 I would know they by now. BTW, you are exactly correct about long wheelbase being a big factor. I don't think I'm going to try "stoppies" to change direction on downhills either.
Ouch, looked as if you could have broken your leg. How bad was it?
 
Ouch, looked as if you could have broken your leg. How bad was it?
Shockingly, it wasn't too bad. I'm 50 and had loose klunky knees from a youth spent in stiff motocross boots. However, last Jan. I started a one hour "spin class" three days a week. Yes, spinning is that thing the "soccer moms" do, but evidently, it is FANTASTIC for knee strength as I only suffered a strain of my medial cruciate ligament. (the one that keeps the knee from flexing out like that), but it didn't tear and is nearly 100% now (tomorrow will be 4 weeks). However, my ACL (anterior cruciate ligament) and its' partner that control the forward/rearward flex is still stiff when I bend deep or try to straighten fully. I was fine riding in the mountains the weekend after this and was only a little sore each night. Soon as the stiffness gets a little better, I'll be back in there with the soccer moms, and I'd advise anyone else on CafeHusky to do the same. It's no impact, VERY BENEFICIAL to the knees, and the PROOF is in the video!!!
One warning about the spin classes: If you try to keep up with the veteran soccer moms, your knees will rebel. Work into it slowly, but keep it up!
 
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