• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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250-500cc Hard thump going into first

9

99WR250

Husqvarna
A Class
Finally got my 99WR250 to the point where I could put fresh gas in her and start it up. I noticed that it goes into first real hard. I'll clutch in, and shift it into first, and I hear a thud, and the bike lurches forward a bit...sometimes it even stalls out. I'm wondering if there is something wrong with my clutch? 2 strokes are new to me.....any suggestions?

After first gear, everything feels ok.
 
if the lever is adjsuted ok- zip ty the clutch lever back to the bar. rechange the trans oil. light it up and idle a few mins on the stand going through the gears then kill it beforeit overheats. comeback in a few hours and the plates will be unstuck. if that dont work pull the cover and inspect the basket fingers. if deeply notched replace everything they touch. very minor notching is no big and i dont file basket fingers. might be a spec for same in the book. if it ever exceeds same toss the basket and replace the plates/frictions.
 
If it's not stuck its definitely sticking anyway. Did you recently change the trans oil? what are you running 10w40?

You could lay the bike on its side and remove the clutch cover/clutch plates for inspection without changing oil if you desire.
 
Yes I recently changed the oil...it's spanking new oil....today was the first time I started it up. Pretty sure it's 10-w40
 
By the way its pretty standard to have a bit of a clunk going into gear on euro bikes from what I've seen. The bike shouldn't stall or lurch very much once it's warmed up (left rad warm to touch).

Some guys use type f atf or gear oil stating its less prone to sticking.

But I'd try pvdukes suggestion to free up the clutch assembly. Easy to do. Could prob get away without re-filling the trans I think.
 
if the bikes been sitting a long time the plates gets stuck together. if everything is mechanically good bump start it and putt it around till its warmed up the trans oil and try and find neutral, snap the lever a few times and make sure the cable slack it correct. youll have to ride it around to warm up the trans. youll overheat the bike on the stand trying to get the trans hot enough to do anything. if it frees up yer good and i suggest a second change to get the gook out that just came off the plates the oil change didnt get. monster clutch drag/creep is caused by the plates "gluing" together or the basket being badly notched. look in the fill hole might be able to see the basket fingers for notching. should be an easy fix man!
 
and i thought it was a sign of the cush drive ine the clutch going, my 360 does this all the time and my kmx, but never stalled it from it, check cable and ride ot pvduke looks like the wiki searched the info... (joking) floow his advice.:thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys! This forum is awesome! I'm learning a ton! Can you I've me a little more direction as far as adjusting the clutch lever. I'm assuming it's the dial right up on the clutch lever. How can I tell where it should be adjusted too?
 
Just make sure you have some free play on the lever. No free play and yer clutch could be engaged a whisker causing slippage and wear.
 
dump that crap. toss in some cheap 10/40. do the tricks above. dump and fill with decent 10/40. probem solved.
 
again, go cheap for the flush and use a "brand name" engine oil for the final fill. whole thing should take less than an hour.
 
So regular car oil 10-w40 will be ok for the flush? It does not have to be 2 stroke bike specific for wet clutches?

And for the final fill do you have any suggestions for oil?
 
use the cheapest oil you can find for the flush. then, dump it and use a good brand name automotive 10/40 like Castrol or Chevron or etc....
 
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