Gearbox shifting

[Down Under XC]

Hi guys,
I have an 83 XC 250 and can't seem to shift the gearbox when on an MX stand and rotating rear wheel and depressing or raising gear shift ??? Got me stumped ? is it a bent or damaged shift finger ???
Any ideas thanks in anticipation?????

 

[justintendo]

does the bike shift normally when running? these bikes dont shift very well like that but should still pop in and out of first easily, especially when rolling around on floor.
mechanically check to see if 2 springs on shift claw are good and teeth on claw arent missing. are you familiar with the swede motor?

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi justintendo,
thanks for your comments. I purchased in the US and shipped it back to Australia. It did run according to the previous owner two years ago. I have spoken to a husky guy here and he says the shift claw fork is susceptible to damage and can be bent readily and thereby preventing the shifting. Looks like I will pull out of the frame again to have a good look as pretty difficult in frame.

I have had the clutch case off about four times now and the head and barrel off but not familiar with the swede motor, but learning as I intend to do the local VETS series over here.

 

[adam6402]

Hi justintendo,
thanks for your comments. I purchased in the US and shipped it back to Australia. It did run according to the previous owner two years ago. I have spoken to a husky guy here and he says the shift claw fork is susceptible to damage and can be bent readily and thereby preventing the shifting. Looks like I will pull out of the frame again to have a good look as pretty difficult in frame.

I have had the clutch case off about four times now and the head and barrel off but not familiar with the swede motor, but learning as I intend to do the local VETS series over here.

No need to take motor out, just take off clutch cover and clutch basket for a good look, post some pictures for us to look at. Don't take the kicker or shifter off either, no need, just clutch cover bolts.

 

[justintendo]

No need to take motor out, just take off clutch cover and clutch basket for a good look, post some pictures for us to look at. Don't take the kicker or shifter off either, no need, just clutch cover bolts.

adam is right on. these bikes were made for quick track side repair, no need to pull motor. and dont pull the kicker or shifter. you will see why when the side case is off. the entire kicker mechanism is in the sidecase. take some good pics with the basket off

 

[hva-factory]

Show us a pic of the bike laid over on its right side - with the clutch cover off - no need to drain the oil either...

Is the selector return spring sat with one leg either side of the casing dowel and are its legs parallel?

Andy

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi guys, found a couple of issues with it,(i) whoever had reassembled the clutch side cover had installed a Teflon seal and this was locking on gear shaft.(ii) one of the bolts is a special locating style bolt and this was in the wrong location. I was also concerned with bottom end and wanted to do crank seals and check big ends, as it looked like head and barrel had been off for a while and may not have been covered as debris in crank area. Which has now been done and all clean and reassembled and waiting on gaskets.

thanks for all the responses.

Mark

 

[Bigbill]

I always say not everyone should be able to buy tools.
My 86 400wxc husqvarna when I bought it someone had the clutch cover and didn't center the pin on the clutch cover in the middle of the spring. A good carb cleaning and centering the spring the 400 ran like new. Cost for the bike $150

On my '83 430 A.C. the clutch cover was off the previous owner said it needed a clutch. The clutch looked perfect the clutch release rod in the primary shaft needed to be shortened. Again cost was zero to repair and another running bike. Cost for the bike $200.

I wish I could find more at that price nowadays.

Like you if a have a running used husqvarna and don't know if it was ever refreshed then I go for the crank bearings, seals, gaskets and piston. I trust no one's word anyway. Just refresh it. It could get costly if it blows up later on if we don't refresh it.

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi Guys,

More to this story..... read on.

I have had head and barrel off and looks like it was left like this for a period of time. Some dirt / grit in crankshaft bottom of barrel. Washed and rotated and flushed numerous times. Then decided to have the halves split and cleaned properly and inspected for condition. I couldn't do the case splitting and not familiar with swede motors. Anyway after splitting and inspection "Bendigo Mick" reports all good conrod engraved ?? new bearings and new gearbox bearings and all in good shape. However on reassembly clutch cover when tightened locks up gearbox. After splitting again and closer inspection we are not sure what the issue is ?? Could be a spacer/ thrust / shim washer on countershaft that is not supposed to be there, could be non oem size bearings so looking at that as well.
Anyway all in good hands and will no doubt find the bloody culprit shortly but a little frustrating even for those familiar with huskies, fortunately he had another XC gearbox he could compare against. Not sorted as yet but hopefully soon.

thanks

Xc Downunder

 

[Bigbill]

The washer can be installed on the wrong side of the gear making the overall length of the shaft longer. Look at the main input shaft at the big gear. Make sure the big gear is in the correct direction too. I think it's offset.
I think there's an exploded view of the tranny here maybe.

 

[Down Under XC]

Thanks Big Bill.

 

[Down Under XC]

Hi all,
Problem sorted. There was a washer placed on shaft and it was way too thick, should have been a shim. replaced and sorted. Now just got to get frame finished and then powder coated.