• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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250-500cc gasket kit question

trailblazer84

trailblazer84

Husqvarna
A Class
sorry if this is the wrong place to post this im new to the forum anyways here I go, hey guys I have just a couple of questions if someone could help me out, Im about to do a top end rebuild on my 96 wr360 Husqvarna and I got a Athena top end gasket kit from my local husky dealer and there are a few o ring type gaskets that im not sure what they are for and I can not find anywhere possible to put them as far as I know in the top end either (is it possible that cause the kit says cr/wr360 that its different for the cr?), also theres 2 green paper type gaskets wich of course are easy to work out where they go but should I use both together or use just 1 if its around the same thickness as my old one? anyways heres the pic, I know what the left 3 are 2 are head o rings and the other seems to be exhaust seal (or at least it seems like it would fit that) its the right hand side 3 im unsure about the smaller one seems to be more like a washer type thing than a actual o ring seal anyways some help with what they might be or someone who has done these rebuilds many times could point out what they come generaly come with would be appreciated
 

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not sure of all the O-rings
the common ones inner and outer head, o-ring for the water fitting, one for the exhaust valve and not sure where the others go
the base gaskets are used for setting the piston squish
you need to read about this before doing your top end
 
2premo said:
not sure of all the O-rings
the common ones inner and outer head, o-ring for the water fitting, one for the exhaust valve and not sure where the others go
the base gaskets are used for setting the piston squish
you need to read about this before doing your top end
Click to expand...
yeah ive read a bit about that, im just going to use the gasket that's the same size as my old one I took off, and the o rings so far my plan is to use the ones I know where they go like the 2 for the head and exhaust, its the few others im not sure what are for and im guessing I just ignore them lol
 
i just used this same kit and there are a few you wont use. setting squish with the base gaskets can be important, especially with a fresh piston on a powervalve bike. i did the above and set my powervalve stops according to the book and it runs amazing. i have the same as yours..95 360
 
justintendo said:
i just used this same kit and there are a few you wont use. setting squish with the base gaskets can be important, especially with a fresh piston on a powervalve bike. i did the above and set my powervalve stops according to the book and it runs amazing. i have the same as yours..95 360
Click to expand...
at this stage im going to use the gasket that is the same thickness as before and im going to leave the valve stops as they are based on the fact It was running fine before it should be now, I may be wrong im but I can tweak with that later the main thing I think is getting the right size gasket to make the squish right, let me know guys if anyone sees a prob with doing it that way its my first rebuild on a 2 stroke
 
trailblazer84 said:
at this stage im going to use the gasket that is the same thickness as before and im going to leave the valve stops as they are based on the fact It was running fine before it should be now, I may be wrong im but I can tweak with that later the main thing I think is getting the right size gasket to make the squish right, let me know guys if anyone sees a prob with doing it that way its my first rebuild on a 2 stroke
Click to expand...



if you are changing the piston you will need to set the squish, it is set to the piston you will use
 
2premo said:
if you are changing the piston you will need to set the squish, it is set to the piston you will use
Click to expand...
yea I know that but its exactly the same piston so would I not be correct In thinking using the same size gasket will cover it without issue?
 
do it right the first time! the powervalve stops are hard to get to with the motor in. if you dont have the manual for the motor, you need to find one or download it. you are probably safe doing it how you describe, but why cheat yourself out of performance? worst case scenario things add up differently with new piston and you have problems. unless you are very familiar with 360s how do you know it was running its best?
 
justintendo said:
do it right the first time! the powervalve stops are hard to get to with the motor in. if you dont have the manual for the motor, you need to find one or download it. you are probably safe doing it how you describe, but why cheat yourself out of performance? worst case scenario things add up differently with new piston and you have problems. unless you are very familiar with 360s how do you know it was running its best?
Click to expand...
I have the manual and I can actually get to the stops rather easy with it all together, but the main reason for rebuild was I couldn't get the powervalve cover off in the bike to give it a clean up and keep it running properly and the piston has a bit of blow by anyways so I got a new one while I had it apart, also the bike went fairly damn well before apart from the powerband was starting to lack a little but im sure that's mostly due to powervalve being gunked up and I think I need to fix the jetting on the carb also
 
well I put it together the other day with just the same size gasket I took off (just hope the squish was/will be ok doing that) I did try to look in my manual and set it up but it wasn't really clear on how to do it and I honestly could not be bothered so I skipped it, but anyways the bike now runs very very well the powerband lifts up the front in most gears again I was testing it on the road without my helmet and scared me it lifted easier than I expected haha, probs just need to get the carby tuned now to make it run 100% perfect yay haha
 
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