• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Funky oil...

S

Schony

Husqvarna
A Class
Been running rotella 5-40 t6 in my wr300 and it comes out looking grey/white hear it's from clutch material but unsure. Don't think it's mixing with water/coolant but am nervous. I tend to boil over my bike here and there doing crazy hill climbs out here on ole Colorado single track, so I top it off kinda often. But if I am just cruzing around it doesn't drop level at all. My buddy was out with his 300 ktm and we dropped the oil in that and it looked just a little darker than what it went in... red (ktm brand oil). I switched to type F maybe that will help?
 

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Rotella T6 is a great oil, and this is not clutch material. This is a water pump seal, not to worry, it happens all the time. So get one of those ordered up ASAP. Because you are boiling over often, you are putting added pressure on your seals which eventually made them fail.

My shameless, but useful plug: http://www.ziptyracing.com/xs-coolant-1/
Switch to my coolant and I guarantee you will never boil over again. The coolant pressures while running XF are so low, that we use zip-tys to hold our radiator hoses on.
 
Damn... Had a gut feeling it was something along those lines just wishful thinking i guess. So I've rebuilt a couple 4t bikes and I think I remember doing the shaft and propeller along with the seal. Is that common practice on these bikes too? Had a riding trip planned for this weekend... imagine probably shouldn't be running it huh? :( I don't want to jack my bottom end.

Edit: Just looked at diagram going to order just o-rings and spacer. Maybe impeller if its cheap
 
Hmm.. Sorry about your riding trip. On the bright side, we may of saved a very expensive rebuild bill down the road. :excuseme:
 
It pretty straight forward. I would order a clutch cover gasket just in case it rips when you pull the cover off. I broke the impeller trying to take it off, so if you can get one, I would just in case.
 
So just the clutch cover gasket, I don't need to take that whole side case off do I? I was thinking it was just pull pump cover and impeller and then I could pull seal and install new. Need to look into it a little more I guess, parts diagram doesn't show that well. I know the impeller is LHT
 
The whole side cover has to come off. Sorry, I'm not use to having the little clutch cover in the side cover, so I call the side cover the clutch cover. Powervalve cover has to come off also, if I recall, and that gasket can tear also. The first time took me a little while, but I think I could do it in 30-45 minutes now.
 
Thanks man, really appreciate the heads up here guy's. going to call Halls here in a hour or so. Side cover gasket, PV gasket, impeller, o-rings, spacer going to also order a 09/10 radiator hose. hope to get together by sat. morning. Run with water then changer over to XS coolant if everything looks good after the weekend.
 
whoohoo got it all ordered, will be here friday :banana: Soo.... they had everything but the w-pump impeller, it's on back order... bummer. so any tricks to getting that off undamaged? and just to be sure it's righty loosie right
 
Schony said:
whoohoo got it all ordered, will be here friday :banana: Soo.... they had everything but the w-pump impeller, it's on back order... bummer. so any tricks to getting that off undamaged? and just to be sure it's righty loosie right
Click to expand...

If I recall it's reverse threads. I'll let someone else chimed in on procedure, since I broke mine the first time.
 
I believe it is left handed threads. Semi typical issue with these but not like it happens all the time.
 
wr300_waterpump.jpg

wr_waterpump_parts.jpg

http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011/2011_WSM_WR_250-300.pdf
 
right on right on thanks guy's, got a little project for the next couple nights it looks like, shouldn't be to bad. Just gota remember to stop and grab some beer on the way home.

Oh and the PDF manual is better than nothing thats for sure but I sure do miss working with a Haynes manual.
 
gravy, got it all apart and cleaned up with no problems, used a long 8x1.25 bolt and washer with a 32mm socket on the one side to pull bearing and seal. spacer was all corroded up along with the one side of the seal. Also the small o-ring was brittle. I imagine once switching to the xf waterless these components will last much longer. Only other thing I wish I had ordered would be the shifter seal
 
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