• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

fuel tank nutserts

R

Rhys Monger

Husqvarna
C Class
has anyone out there with a 2008 husky or newer had any troubles with the shanked bolts stripping out the nutserts on the sides of the fuel tank when taking off the side shrouds?
 
I took mine back to the dealer I purchased it from Wagner Motorsports and they over tightened both side shrouds to the point where I now have floating inserts and can no longer get either side off(of course they deny that they could have done anything wrong and have no desire to resolve the situation). Haven't figured out how to resolve the issue but your not alone. Moral of the story don't take you bike to Wagner Motorsports!
 
I had 3 come out on my 2008 but 2009 so far so good. I used the attached when fixing my 2008 TE and they worked great. These were for wood or furniture. Only issue was they were SAE.

Rhys Monger said:
has anyone out there with a 2008 husky or newer had any troubles with the shanked bolts stripping out the nutserts on the sides of the fuel tank when taking off the side shrouds?
Click to expand...
image.jpg
 
Had that problem with my honda,,i used a 3/8 impact to spin them off after they got free,i mixed some epoxy and squeezed it into the nut cavity,,from there i used a small dab of grease on the bolts,,no problem since...
 
my 2012 wr300 came with 8mm bolts holding the shrouds onto the tank, somehow in pre-delivery they got the bolts mixed up and put the longer ones in which bottomed out the bolt in the nutsert, nutserts spun from new. i suspect they put the rear sidecover bolts into the tank by accident.

don`t be tempted to lock a set of vice grips on and pull the nutsert out, i tried that in desperation and ended up with a 3/8in (10mm) hole in the tank and decent sized chunk of plastic on the end of the nutsert. thankfully a new tank was around $280 from halls, about 1/4 of the price the australian dealerships charge!

and in a moment of clarity i remembered by 2006 wr250 had phillips head screws for the shrouds and ordered a few. they usually hold the shroud top mounts into the tank under the seat and the fit the other nutserts perfectly. made sure it won`t happen again. and less chance of being overtightened with a phillips head than an 8mm head
 
duggoey said:
Very true, top 4 results brought me back to my very own question.
Click to expand...
I've had that happen to me. Actually it happens a lot, because the search engines typically steer people to site based on their browsing history, which people do not tend to clean out frequently. At least google seems to act far differently after I've purged my computer.

Pre-2011 we used a different software which had something called 'tags' available.
Try searching for rivnut - it was one of the tags/terms we could search for.
 
You know, I'm pretty interested in this topic as well. My '11 TE449 has these rivnuts holding the black plastic inner rear wheel fender in place and I tried to break one loose. No go. It just spun and spun. How the heck do you get the bolt out of one of these when this happens? I didn't over tighten it. It just came that way since new. Suggestions?
 
Get your 3/8" or 1/2" drill and tighten the chuck down onto the bolt head. Spin it fast and pull the plastic and drill out even and smooth together. One hand on the drill and the other on the plastic that wasn't coming off before. Get some vise grips and hold the nutzert and remove your bolt. Now you need to mix some JB weld( I used marine JB weld ) and re set those nutzerts in the tank and let it sit for 24-48 hrs. Make sure that you set the nutzerts with a bolt installed so you can set them straight, then remove the bolt so it doesn't cause the nutzert to sag. When reinstalling your plastics, use either anti-seize, grease, or I use silcone sealant. As I see it, the silicone allows you to lightly tighten the bolts and they won't back out, and also creates a barrier between the two different metals to help with galvanic corrosion. When I did mine, I decided that all where to be done at one time due to how much of a PITA it is to not be able to remove the plastics.
 
gillies said:
You know, I'm pretty interested in this topic as well. My '11 TE449 has these rivnuts holding the black plastic inner rear wheel fender in place and I tried to break one loose. No go. It just spun and spun. How the heck do you get the bolt out of one of these when this happens? I didn't over tighten it. It just came that way since new. Suggestions?
Click to expand...

For rivnuts (not the tank inserts) sometimes you can put a side load on the bolt with the wrench while you turn it and it will cause the rivnut insert to grab the material it is seated in enough to allow the bolt to be removed. Once that is done, sometimes all it takes is a rivnut tool to expand it further to make it hold. If side loading is not enough, you can drip some Loctite 290 around the rivnut and let it set so it holds the insert in place enough to remove the bolt.
 
The drill trick worked perfect for me. It broke the rivnuts loose and I was then able to use the vice grips. Thank you 268fords! I guess I'll go the jb weld route as well.

Has anyone ordered from ezlok.com and if so, what insert did you go with?
 
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