TE310 2011 bogs and dies when I give it a handful of throttle. Easing on the throttle is better, but the bike still doesn't run well and will cut out. Fuel pump works as I have tested it. I am assuming this is an injector/throttle body/fuel delivery issue? Anyone had a similar issue/know what to look for and test myself? I don't have access to iBeat personally, but last resort I can take it to my nearest Husqvarna dealership.
-
Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
Fuel Injection Bog
- Thread starter Huskyyyyy
- Start date
funmachines
Husqvarna
AA Class
You should get your own Ibeat set-up - the cable is cheap and you can download the software for free. Many threads about issues with 2011 and 2012 TE310 fuel injection adjustment and tuning.
Oldscool
Husqvarna
AA Class
If you haven't already, try a new spark plug. Have you checked you've got a nice blue spark at the spark plug?
Wriggle all wiring plug connections with engine idling. You'll hear the engine change note or speed if you've got a poor connection.
Check inlet manifold for possible leaks. You can do this by spraying wd40 or similar onto the manifold, throttle body, etc. while the engine is idling. If the engine note changes at all, you've got a leak.
Wriggle all wiring plug connections with engine idling. You'll hear the engine change note or speed if you've got a poor connection.
Check inlet manifold for possible leaks. You can do this by spraying wd40 or similar onto the manifold, throttle body, etc. while the engine is idling. If the engine note changes at all, you've got a leak.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
also, on your era of xlites, the coolant temperature sensor (cts) has been known to get flaky and provide the ecu with errant info. $20. Supposedly, the older black sensors are more susceptible to failure than the newer white ones.
I don't know of a CTS test on the bike. You might try unplugging it when warm... if the bike runs the same then maybe it's bad. Or short the leads with a 660 ohm resistor (guessing) to see if it runs better, which would indicate it's bad. [after the bike is warm- the theory I'm working here is that it's a negative temperature coefficient thermistor; if it's an op-amp or something else then who knows?]
I've never have done any of these tests.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
The tank removes with one bolt. Seat, cross-over hose, pump connection, fuel line, reserve light connection. I'm probably forgetting something minor.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
yes, it could very well be a dirty injector. take it out and spray carb cleaner on both sides of the pintel.
do not discount the CTS failure. do a search for this infamous component & its symptoms, and its numerous failures.
good luck.
hhdwtmtw
He who dies with the most toys wins...
Try re-calibrating your throttle position sensor. You can do this without iBeat. If the problem persists then you'll need to use iBeat or a dealer to troubleshoot the problem.
TPS Quick Reset
- Fully Warm Motorcycle
- Disconnect the battery for approx 2 minute, then hook it back up again.
- Turn the ignition key on.
- Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.
- Turn the ignition key off, wait 5 seconds, and then turn it back on again.
- Start the bike without touching the throttle.
TPS Quick Reset
- Fully Warm Motorcycle
- Disconnect the battery for approx 2 minute, then hook it back up again.
- Turn the ignition key on.
- Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.
- Turn the ignition key off, wait 5 seconds, and then turn it back on again.
- Start the bike without touching the throttle.
So I just tried recalibrating the TPS, and whilst trying to warm it up, after about 2 minutes the bike stalled. The pump started to sound more unhealthy as I continued to kickstart the bike. It restarted, but shortly after, stalled again. I can't get it started now. When the bike is cold, starts second kick every time and I can hear the fuel pump working perfectly. I've read that some pumps are faulty when they reach working temperature. Do I simply have a faulty fuel pump?
Very possible, I've had three fail in 7 years.