• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Front fork spring change on 2011 TXC250

airmobile101

airmobile101

Husqvarna
B Class
I bought some front fork springs for my dirtbike. I might have biten off more then I can chew.hahaha. I looked at the service manual and it moreless just confused the hell out of me. Is there a decent YOUTUBE video show how to do this?

I have the rear resprung already,so I would like to get the front do soon.
 
And the stupid questions keep rolling................. If I change the fork oil and measure it out exactly and add new oil, what oil should I use? Remember, Im a light guy here(150lbs.with gear on) Also,since the bike is pretty much still new, do I have to change the fork seals?
 
You do not have to change the seals as long as you don't take the tubes apart.

Been a little while since I was in the KYB's but loosen upper triple clamp pinch bolts on the bike, then loosen the outer upper cap of the fork. You want to break this loose so you don't have to use a vise if they are really tight. Then take the forks off the bike. Take them over to your bench with some extra rags and plenty of working area I usually use a small clean pan of some sort. Take the cap off of the top of your fork which will still be connected to the damping rod and inner cartridge. Drop the upper tube down about 6 inches and tilt into the pan while holding the cap and the lower fork and drain. Once done move the pan off the bench as I have knocked that thing over, what a mess... Now it is time to loosen the nut on the bottom of the fork. On one end of my work bench I have a vise, so I lay the fork on the bench with the axle lug in the vise and tighten slightly. Let the fork rest on the bench (put rags where some oil will run out) and hold the lug of the fork with soft jaws, wood or rag will work just not too much pressure or in a bind. Put a socket on the nut and I use a small air gun on this to remove. Once that comes off I am pretty sure that is as far as you need to go and the inner cartridge will come out. That is where your spring is at and watch for any types of washers. Be sure to make sure the new springs are the proper length. On KYB's stock springs they will sag out some on you. I normally use Showa SS7 oil from honda but the outer chamber does not matter as much as the amount does. SS7 is like a light 5 weight oil. Spectro 85/150 oil is really good too. I can't remember the amount is stock but I am thinking around 330 or so, you can go a little less if you want, getting blurred on the numbers so check on that.

I also take a measurement of my static sag before I do forks and one after I am done. Not to start a suspension war but I run 35 +,- 10mm of static sag. Put a zip tie on the chrome part by the seal, push bike up and down a few times to settle, put zip tie back by seal and raise the bike on a stand. Measure the difference between the zip tie and seal wiper. At least if you know this before messing with them and this number is different, at least you know what you need to do. It is a really easy job and just take your time and crank the radio. If you get frustrated, walk away for a while and think, it helps.
 
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