• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Front brake feeling mushy?

ray_ray

Mini-Sponsor
My 08 WR250 went from stoppie type front brake action to that mushy, air-in-the-lines feeling. Bled it several times but no help. Turns out my front brake disc was warped. Must have bent it on some trails...

The fix was simple. My friend mounted the disc on the hub in the pic. This allowed it to be mounted and spun on a lathe. The lathe guy then mounted a small pointer close to the disc as it spun to identify the warped points. He did used a rubber hammer and an adjustable wrench to straighten it. ~Ten minutes work.

So if you can't get your brakes to feel good again with bleeding, maybe check the straightness of your disc. Probably the same holds true for the rear disc also.

100_0204.JPG
 
Nice tip Ray. I have also done the same thing by removing the caliper, mounting a testmaster on the disc and slowing spinning it while it was on the axle, then making the necessary tweeks to get it true.
 
I did it on the bike the other day, spun the wheel, listened for the sound of the disc swerving over and hitting the brake pad, marking the spot with a sharpie, and using the big 12" crescent to ease the bent spot over, worked great on my rear disc, still trying to get my front straightened.
 
I was clueless here ... I was thinking the disc was gonna need to be pressed straight ;(

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One is the downside here when riding in lots of places is big rock hard, lava rocks on the trails just waiting to ding a disc or engine case.
 
Nice home grown fix (third world fix?) and the runout was good? not bad.
I would have tossed the disc (as I have done a bunch of times) and threw on a new one. I always feel it as mushy than ocillating brake when trail breaking. The pistons being pushed back into the caliper then as you squeeze you feel the ocillations. Good one Ray.
 
Do this all the time on Bicycle disc brake rotors.

Wouldn't have thought twice about doing it to my TE610 rotor if I happened to bend it.
 
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