• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

FMF and PCV install - bike dying on throttle

Vustadumas

Vustadumas

Husqvarna
A Class
Finished up the install of a Q4 slip-on and a Power commander 5, with Zipty ECU remap on my '14 TE449. Bike starts and idles ok. There is a bit of a drop in the idling rpm every now and then, but no stalls at idle or anything. So when I blip the throttle, the bike wants to die. If I very easily turn the throttle, it will rev. Decided to take it for a spin, and see if it continued. Anytime I give it throttle, the rpms drop, and the bike goes to hell. Comes right back to idle fine if I let off the throttle.

So I quickly turned back and came home. After shutting off the bike, I noticed a steady wisp of smoke trailing out of the silencer. Part of me chalks it up to first run with new pipe, and its just getting broke in, at least that's what I hope, hehe.

Any ideas? O2 sensor is still plugged in, but smog can is removed. If that makes any difference?
PC V has a green light, and seems to be function just fine.
 
AFAIK ZipTy pre-programmed my PCV to my bike. If that's not the case, that might explain the problem. I'll verify with Tinken.

Did a TPS reset per Tinken's instructions from the site. Did not help.
 
Ok, so I checked the map on the PCV and diffed it against Zipty's 2012 TE449 map. If that's the map that I should be using, its much different than the one on my PC. I sent the map to the PC and it started right up, but being that it's a bit late, and the bike is tucked away in my garage already, I can't verify that it worked. I'll get the bike out in the morning and test it out.
 
This was the map on my PC V that I pulled off:

PCV_default.JPG

And the ZipTy Map:

zipty2012Map.JPG
 

Attachments

  • zipty2012Map.JPG
    zipty2012Map.JPG
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Tinken, I'll get you my map ASAP. Hopefully that will help. I have two Autotuned rides on it since we last talked.
 
Sorry for the low volume, but here's a quick vid so you guys can hear the problem. Blip or quickly roll on throttle, bike sputters and makes no power. If I roll on easy, it will rev to a point, but will eventually still sputter. Bike idles fine and returns to idle without issue. O2 sensor is now capped and unplugged from the wiring harness. The plug that it was in, I just left it with nothing in it. So the plug on the harness is empty. Do I need to have a plug in that? Was really hoping that was the problem, but seemingly has made no difference. I tried adjusting the fuel % up and down, as you suggested Tinken, but no change. Got a big ride planned for this weekend, so I have to get this thing sorted out ASAP. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 
No you don't need anything attached to the O2 wire harness. Have you double checked all of your connections? I just installed mine last night and the hardest part was the taps that read off the crank sensor wires. Also check your ground wire on the spark plug coil. Do you have the MapII jumper installed? If it's not trying to run map II (you will see it on the dash) it would run like crap because it's looking for the O2 sensor, but would also show fail.

I have an all zeros map running in position 2 just for fun and it runs great, that map you showed shouldn't run like that unless there's possibly a TPS problem?
 
I have the jumper, well a wire, in the plug for race map II. The dash still shows race map II until the fail appears. ECU should have map III, as I got it back from ZipTy last week. I'll check all the connections again, but I've checked them a bunch already, but can't hurt to try again.
 
Went through each cable on the PCV, pulled and checked pins and re plugged. Unscrewed crank wire taps and ensured connection. Checked grounds. Everything is solid. At my wits end trying to figure this out :/
 
Note that the plug that goes to the TPS is the same for both TPS sensors. I originally hooked mine to the wrong TPS (I think it's grey, you want the black one). Check your throttle position in the Power Commander Software while you roll the throttle on. Use the throttle position calibration feature in the Power Commander software to get it properly zeroed. I'm not at the computer with the software, so I'm going from memory, but with the bike running set it to calibrate, then roll the throttle from 0% to 100% and back. That should allow the software to record your actual top and bottom voltage. If the numbers look wonky, then you are definitely plugged into the wrong TPS.

This is probably obvious, but when you have loaded a new map into the software from your hard drive, you have to hit the send map button to send it to the PCV. I'm sure you know that but I'm just thinking through all possibilities.
 
Up early trying to sort this out. I checked the EFI connection again, it's in the black one, tucked behind the body. I do notice however, I do not get any voltage reading when my laptop is connected and the bike is running. I would imagine I should? Going to check the lines, make sure they have juice. Thanks for suggestions so far!
 
Vustadumas said:
I do notice however, I do not get any voltage reading when my laptop is connected and the bike is running. I would imagine I should?
Click to expand...

Yes you should be able to roll the throttle on and see either the "% throttle" or "TPS %" increase (can't remember which value it shows on the right hand pane just below RPM).
 
I will take pics of all the connections and post them up. I hope its something as easy as a wrong plug. Already missing my planned ride :/ Bikes been missing random parts for a month. Just want to ride the damn thing, lol. If problem persists, I will be yanking the power commander.
 
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