• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Flat tires...

Soapy water or Windex are best as they evaporate. WD40 and other similar products work well, however have been known to help induce the tyre (yes correct spelling) to slip on the rim
 
Be careful in areas where logging is going on we had a chain saw file go right thru both walls of the tire. We drove 300 miles for this ride and I didn't think to bring a spare tube or a patch kit. We ended the ride early.
 
Currently running Bridgestone's X30 both ends. Works and definitely like the stiffer sidewalls for racing and warding off pinch flats.

Checking if spokes are protruding and 2+ layers of a good duct tape are standard.

Tire mounting...after all the money we spend don't cheap out on mounting lube options. Actually it's not that expensive when you consider the good times blown by flats! Find a tire mounting paste or lube, even the cheapest will be better than using alternative fluids.

I found a 1 gallon jug of Ru-glyde mounting lube, less than $15 and may be close to life-time-supply, depending on what you're doing. I pour a little into a small tray and use an old paintbrush to paint beads before setting. Slides into place nicely and conditions rubber to seat on rim. This is written from an off-road perspective, if you're on the street with alloy rims the chemicals in some soaps can pit or etch metal.

Search tire paste, tire mounting lube, etc. and ride on....
 
I now use cooking oil on a paint brush or PAM [cooking spray] from the kitchen-you can't eat it but killer for tires.
 
-and have been trying a sliced open section of a bicycle tube as a heavier and wider rim band. Love my mousse tho'
 
I put it back together last time with an extra heavy tube, rode twice, and the tire moved on the rim again. So last night I pulled it back apart, opened up the hole for the stem to 9.5 mm, replaced the rim lock, and added a second rim tape. Race tomorrow, so we'll see how that works out.
 
I remove the black rubber band that covers the spoke thimbles and do two or three wraps with duct tape. Then I put baby powder on the tube and inside the tire. Assemble one side then add the tube and rim locks.
The nut on the valve stem is finger tight.
 
I always leave valve stem nut off rim dun up against cap so if tyre moves doesn't rip stem. Gives it a bit of play each way
 
re inner tube lock rings. I've found at running low psi like 4 in a trials bike and marking the tyre and rim they don't move but it's the inner tube that walks inside the tyre.

So yes lock to valve cap is correct method in my opinion.
Tyre
Tires
Tyre
 
I started marking the tire/rim after last time to see if it was moving, and it was. Also didn't like the look of the rim lock much either, so hopefully this cures it.

My KLX250s didn't come with rim locks, and I didn't want to use one because of the balance issues I've had with them on my last DS bike. So I drilled and tapped the rim in the bead area in 3 spots, 60 degrees apart to take a SS M5 button head cap screw, sharpened on the end. I did both sides, offset by 60 degrees, and run them in with some blue loctite so they don't come out. Running 15 psi, I haven't lost a tube yet, and it used to be a big problem.

IMG_0640_zpsdf648381.jpg
 
We installed screws on drag race slicks. Then we painted a straight line from the tire to the rim to spot if the tire turns. We ran only 10lbs of air in the slicks.
 
Very interesting concept Zomby Woolf. Would not have thought of that approach/solution. Get some good ideas on this Forum.
 
Yup that's a common hack, works tho.
All depends on how hard your abusing your wheels I suppose.

Still I'm running tubliss now and so far only one issue that was with the first bladder.
 
juicypips said:
Yup that's a common hack, works tho.
All depends on how hard your abusing your wheels I suppose.

Still I'm running tubliss now and so far only one issue that was with the first bladder.
Click to expand...
The '80's huskies came with 1/8 inch teeth inserted into the bead area of the rims instead of a rim lock. Aprox., 6-8 per side.- no rim lock. worked fine until you got a flat.
 
My DS wheel on the 449 finally suffered a valve stem flat from either tire or tube rotating. Oh well, just have to throw the 19 on and go dirt riding.
 
I ran a 1hr TT scramble on Sunday, with lot's of traction, and the tire didn't move. I'm going to assume it was the rim lock that was the problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top