• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

First ride '13 TE 310 R... First issues

Johnrg

Johnrg

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Having a stalling issue with my new bike. Downshifting 4th to 3rd it would stall. A couple of stoplights it would stall, and while I could restart most of the time, others I just got clicking from the starter button. So 3+ stalls moving and just coasting down to a stop and a few other times had a hard time keeping it running on starting, this when engine had warmed up for 10 minutes and 5 miles. All the above in about 20 miles of initial easy running. Not much more frustrating than this. Seems like a short I had on an old race bike that had coil connections coming loose, or like my Ducati when new in need of a good tune to keep from constant stalling. When it's running it idles fine though it does "float" up and down at times.

All connections and wires look good. Hesitate taking a trip next weekend with my new bike at this point. Could be a tune up will solve the stalling. The start button issue is another thing though. Might the stalling be due to a heavily oiled new air filter or possibly air in the fuel line? (forgot I had the fuel petcock off for a mile starting out but 19 miles later still stalled). Appreciate any feedback others may have.

John
 
Sounds like flame outs. Husky leans them way out to pass emissions. Either have to install power-up plug and risk your warranty or take it back to the dealer.
 
Tinken said:
Sounds like flame outs. Husky leans them way out to pass emissions. Either have to install power-up plug and risk your warranty or take it back to the dealer.
Click to expand...

Thanks Tinken. I did note some popping on decelleration at times. Will put an hour on the bike tomorrow and see what happens but agree it probably needs a good tune by the dealer prior to doing anything else.
 
KXcam22 said:
As a possibility, I would check your system voltage with the bike running and not running. The clicking starter is a sign that the battery has not enough voltage. There is the possibility that this low voltage can also causing the fuel injection to stop working. Just an idea. I got similar symptoms from a honda car once. Cam.
Click to expand...

Cam, Thanks. Will investigate that.
 
Sounds like it's more than a lean map. More like a nasty air leak with lean deceleration pops and stalls. It would be one thing if you were flogging it, but rolling around town it should behave much better. I think the dealer needs to give it a good once over. I know that the emissions canister is not much more than a controlled vacuum leak, and if it's lean it's getting hot, and a hot Husky doesn't like to start and get past TDC.
 
ghte said:
Mate I would take it straight to the dealer and suggest their pre delivery was sub par and to fix the issues. I would not mess around. I concur it is possibly lean from the factory and a bit of fattening up might do the trick.
Click to expand...

Yes... That's my plan for tomorrow. Back to the dealer!
 
Take it back to the dealer. If the starter fails you could be like me-- without a 2012 35hr TE 310 for 10 weeks in all due to starter issues.The miracle cure starter kit is not available at present ? can you believe that? 10 weeks to get parts shipped from Italy to Wales?

fed up , frustrated and totally dissapointed.
 
Johnrg said:
Having a stalling issue with my new bike. Downshifting 4th to 3rd it would stall. A couple of stoplights it would stall, and while I could restart most of the time, others I just got clicking from the starter button. So 3+ stalls moving and just coasting down to a stop and a few other times had a hard time keeping it running on starting, this when engine had warmed up for 10 minutes and 5 miles. All the above in about 20 miles of initial easy running. Not much more frustrating than this. Seems like a short I had on an old race bike that had coil connections coming loose, or like my Ducati when new in need of a good tune to keep from constant stalling. When it's running it idles fine though it does "float" up and down at times.

All connections and wires look good. Hesitate taking a trip next weekend with my new bike at this point. Could be a tune up will solve the stalling. The start button issue is another thing though. Might the stalling be due to a heavily oiled new air filter or possibly air in the fuel line? (forgot I had the fuel petcock off for a mile starting out but 19 miles later still stalled). Appreciate any feedback others may have.

John
Click to expand...

I had some of these issues with my new 2010 te 250.

I noticed my idle was much too low out of facotry, so I changed the idle screw thingy on side so it would idle at higher rpms (around 1900-2050). This helped prevent stalls considerably when down shifting to a stop.
 
Sorry to hear it. I agree take it back to your dealer and make them make it right. The one Bills just had at a recent ride gig ran PERFECT and that was in 25 degree weather!!! I really liked that bike.
 
you need to make the throttle body just like the one on the txc.i know you dont want to hear that but thats what it takes.does not cost money just some cutting involved.dan
 
MotoXotica said:
you need to make the throttle body just like the one on the txc.i know you dont want to hear that but thats what it takes.does not cost money just some cutting involved.dan
Click to expand...

Can you explain some more on this? According to the parts list 2013 TXC and TE have the same throttle body...


Dave
 
Johnrg said:
Having a stalling issue with my new bike. Downshifting 4th to 3rd it would stall. A couple of stoplights it would stall, and while I could restart most of the time, others I just got clicking from the starter button. So 3+ stalls moving and just coasting down to a stop and a few other times had a hard time keeping it running on starting, this when engine had warmed up for 10 minutes and 5 miles. All the above in about 20 miles of initial easy running. Not much more frustrating than this. Seems like a short I had on an old race bike that had coil connections coming loose, or like my Ducati when new in need of a good tune to keep from constant stalling. When it's running it idles fine though it does "float" up and down at times.

All connections and wires look good. Hesitate taking a trip next weekend with my new bike at this point. Could be a tune up will solve the stalling. The start button issue is another thing though. Might the stalling be due to a heavily oiled new air filter or possibly air in the fuel line? (forgot I had the fuel petcock off for a mile starting out but 19 miles later still stalled). Appreciate any feedback others may have.

John
Click to expand...

The 250/310 motor are 'tight' from new and take a good 5 - 10 hours to loosen up fully. Idle speed needs to be around 1900rpm and make sure you have zero throttle when pressing the start button. Opening the throttle even slightly makes a huge difference to the starting.


Dave
 
Got a call this evening that it appears like the "settings" were not quite right presumably with the ECU. They are going to reprogram it tomorrow with a newly downloaded stock map. I was expecting something like, "Nothing wrong with the bike", so that's a good thing. Glad to hear Husky USA was consulted and 3 techs. I will sleep better tonight knowing this issue is documented just in case it doesn't solve it.
 
My TE511 ran just like yours off the floor. Bought it from a BMW dealer so know special treatment to the bike and it ran like doo doo. De-smog , chip it and it will run fine.
 
honda4oo said:
Dave can you post the link for the 2013 parts list
Kim
Click to expand...

I haven't got it as a pdf, the factory seem to have stopped producing pdf versions now. I have access to the UK dealer online parts system but nothing I can share I'm afraid.


Dave
 
OK... Bike was just delivered by the owner. Nice guy... Discussed a lot of what many here have mentioned to do in time. As far as what they did... Test ride experiencing what I did. Re-flash ecu, install more open air filter frame and adjust idle. Regarding starting, practiced kicking it over and not going to be an issue as starts right up. Tomorrow will spend a couple of hours in the hills. Glad to have her back quickly and good experience with the dealer.
 
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