First Problem - at 7200 miles

[Fast1]

Had my first real problem with my 08 TE510 after 7200 miles.

The magic button just doesn't bring it to life. Hit the button and absolutely nothing, nadda..not even a click. This was encountered
during a 1100 mile ride on day three in an intense all day rain storm. I did finish the ride by way of either bump start or kicker.


What I've done so far:

verified the battery has power
checked the fuses on the Electric start remote control under left panel which are fine
ensured power connection on starter was tight
ensured power connections on electric start remote controll unit were tight


What the shop manual lists:
-check continuity of electric start remote control
-check starter motor cable for looseness
-check starter motor for continuity
-discharged battery - charge
-right handlebar commutator check for continuity


Looking for advise on how to perform the electric tests from those that may have been down this road. I have the shop manual which does explain it very thoroughly but would appreciate any advise.

Also, are there any other potential issues that might be cause for this?

My thought is that the problem may be within the actual start button on the handlebar...

One good thing is that I am getting very proficient with the 510 kick start and don't need that foolish decom lever... or maybe even the magic button..

 

[PALMER84ONE]

Ok, I know its stupid but, how’s the red button above the start button. Don't ask it took me about ten minutes of heart in the mouth thought before I noticed. (08TE450) not sure if it would kick over if it was in the wrong position though, probably not.
Pos. cable from battery goes to the solenoid then to the starter, all are attached and tight? This happened to my 08SM610 (but I did get a click out of it).
All the connectors on the fuse block are tight?
On another note, the button itself could be the culprit. My horn button did the same thing, but it started working again after it dried out and cleaner was applied.
Did you shoot it with a good electrical contact cleaner?
Just thoughts off the top…
Sorry if I am no help! Electrical is not a strong point, unless we are dealing with a home.

 

[Motosportz]

Bad switch, bad ground, bad battery, all kinds of stuff. Start eliminating parts. A battery can show 12 volts but have nearly no cranking power. The switch will be EZ to short and see if it is that. Go through one part at a time starting with making sure the battery is 100%. A battery place (or many parts stores) can test it for you if you don;t have the stuff to do it. Then i would short the switch and see if it is there. A test light and volt meter are your friends. I'm guessing it will be something simple but maybe not simple to find.

 

[Fast1]

Could the battery be bad and still have the head light come on when not running.. also the bike starts with the kicker and I put in another 300 to 400 miles this way. The fuel pump primes when I turn the ignition on.


Another quesiton.. can you remove the starter without dissmantling the exhaust system?

 

[glangston]

I don't know whether it's a weakness but if you're getting a lot of precipitation on the electrical at the bars it would not surprise me to see this happen...eventually. My turn signals took a while to return to function normally.

I might someday really waterproof the electricals if I were doing longer distances with less support.

 

[tadgh]

couldnt be the clutch safety switch? that happened to me once and it will still fire from the kickstart without pulling in the clutch.

 

[Fast1]

Ok... got the multi-meter out and went to work testing per the manual. Found nothing wrong with anything and then took
a members advise here.

Tadgh, had it nailed, however I appreciate all the others ideas and time it took to post them. They were all good suggestions.

It was the clutch safety switch, however it appears as if someone took a pliers and tried to pull it out of the clutch mechanism housing.
The threads in the housing are stripped and the plastic divider between the contacts is broken along with the contacts being pinched together. If I didn't know better I'd say someone was trying to create a problem for me out in the middle of no where.

Here are the photos

I'm not sure how I will secure the threaded portion back in the housing?? with the threads stripped.. maybe J&B weld?? thoughts..

 

[glangston]

You might ask how to disconnect it instead. It's debatable how much it's a safety item.

I haven't done mine but I plan to. If I get the info on this by tomorrow I'll post it. Or maybe someone else will.

 

[Fast1]

I think you just have to splice the leads together.... making
a closed circuit

 

[Coffee]

The estart button on the right and the clutch pull in switch on the left are in series on my 2006 TE250. When they are both closed the starter turns (rrrr... vroom). I would toss the switch and connect the 2 wires together on my bike.

 

[HuskyDude]

I would toss the switch and connect the 2 wires together on my bike.

I was thinking that having the clutch pulled in while the bike is in gear and starting would be beneficial.
At least while out on the trail... but I've tried this and the starter is pretty weak to over come clutch pull from the plates. Might work...might not if the bike is really hot.
I'll keep mine like it is for now, but if I ever have problems with it...out it comes.
FYI Sometimes I gotta wiggle my key to complete the electrical circuit (hearing the sweet sound of the fuel pump)

 

[fitness2go]

That's the exact same thing that happened to me out on the trail (finally learned how to kick it over) and I just spliced the wires together so I don't have to worry about it. I also have a Rekluse so the bike is always in neutral when I go to restart it.

David

Ok... got the multi-meter out and went to work testing per the manual. Found nothing wrong with anything and then took
a members advise here.

Tadgh, had it nailed, however I appreciate all the others ideas and time it took to post them. They were all good suggestions.

It was the clutch safety switch, however it appears as if someone took a pliers and tried to pull it out of the clutch mechanism housing.
The threads in the housing are stripped and the plastic divider between the contacts is broken along with the contacts being pinched together. If I didn't know better I'd say someone was trying to create a problem for me out in the middle of no where.

Here are the photos

I'm not sure how I will secure the threaded portion back in the housing?? with the threads stripped.. maybe J&B weld?? thoughts..

 

[Xcuvator]

On my 450 I followed the wires that connect to the clutch safety switch back to where they plug in under the tank. After unplugging them there, the two wires that they plug into end up being male and female and will plug together. It turned out to be a very neat way to eliminate the switch.

 

[glangston]

On my 450 I followed the wires that connect to the clutch safety switch back to where they plug in under the tank. After unplugging them there, the two wires that they plug into end up being male and female and will plug together. It turned out to be a very neat way to eliminate the switch.

That's what I saw George do when he dis-connected one.

 

[tadgh]

On my 450 I followed the wires that connect to the clutch safety switch back to where they plug in under the tank. After unplugging them there, the two wires that they plug into end up being male and female and will plug together. It turned out to be a very neat way to eliminate the switch.

thats exactly how to remove it..plug the male and female together where the meet under the tank. its how the power up kit elimimates the switch on mine also.
glad it was something that simple

 

[Coffee]

[satire]

Terrible terrible bikes. 7200 miles of getting beat up & tossed around and a switch stopped working cause someone had messed with it.

[/satire]

 

[krieg]

[satire]

Terrible terrible bikes. 7200 miles of getting beat up & tossed around and a switch stopped working cause someone had messed with it.

[/satire]

 

[Slowpoke]

On my 450 I followed the wires that connect to the clutch safety switch back to where they plug in under the tank. After unplugging them there, the two wires that they plug into end up being male and female and will plug together. It turned out to be a very neat way to eliminate the switch.

Did this on my TE 250 last year. Had the same problem as the OP. No problems since.

 

[Fast1]

regardless of the minor clutch switch issue the TE510 still performed up to expectation even with a full load of overnight equipment on the rear rack (tent and pegs, sleeping pad, sleepbag, headlamp, cap and breakfast) in the sand... since it was only 45 degrees I have two jackets and armor on.. bit bulky on the upper body..

 

[I8AKTM]

Mmmmmmmmmmm.......510's and sand......

I do miss that.