EFI FUEL LINE DOESN'T CONNECT

[Mehusieni]

Did some valve adjustments to my SMR 510 (2008) and when I tried to put the tank back on, the fuel line plastic connector doesn't "click" into the tank anymore (B into the C in the image). I've tried bending the plastic things inside the line outwards and nothing. So the problem is that either the fuel line goes in all the way but doesn't lock or the plastic things inside the line are bent and it doesn't go in all the way. The fuel line still seals but I'm worried about it coming off due to vibration.

Is this something I can fix (by bending the plastic things inside the line) or do I have to buy a new fuel line?


PS. Having problems with the front fork seals again... Spent ~100€ for new seals, oil, tools and now they're leaking again after 10km of riding

 

[R_Little]

Something is wrong.
It should just "snap" on when pushed over the tab on the output port..

Are the springs still in the connector?

As for the fork seals, there is either a nick on the for tube that needs to be wet sanded a bit or the seals were cut on installation. Did you tape the fork tube or use a fork bullet to install the seals?

Also, if your bushings are shot then it could cause the seals to leak, but that less likely.

 

[Mehusieni]

Something is wrong.
It should just "snap" on when pushed over the tab on the output port..

Are the springs still in the connector?

As for the fork seals, there is either a nick on the for tube that needs to be wet sanded a bit or the seals were cut on installation. Did you tape the fork tube or use a fork bullet to install the seals?

Also, if your bushings are shot then it could cause the seals to leak, but that less likely.

Didn't see anything metallic inside the line like springs (Didn't know at the time what the connector was suppose to look like inside) but I'll have to check.

I taped the fork tube when I was installing them but there was still a small lip and had to bend the seals a bit to get them to fit. Another thing were my bushings, they seemed fine other than they were worn, like missing paint type of worn not scratches

 

[Trenchcoat85]

The white plastic button is the spring and has the lips which retain the disconnect on to the outlet.

Is the male outlet and ridge still intact? (Red plastic piece famous for being fragile)

Turn the hose around and see if the other end works.

Couple of pics?

 

[Mehusieni]

The white plastic button is the spring and has the lips which retain the disconnect on to the outlet.

Is the male outlet and ridge still intact? (Red plastic piece famous for being fragile)

Turn the hose around and see if the other end works.

Couple of pics?

Yes the red part is intact. I sanded it a few seconds thinking it didn't go in further enough. I thought about turning it when I was doing it but the line most likely isn't long enough with that extra curve.
I'm going to take pics as soon as I can and post them here. I'm currently in another city for a week or two, finishing my courses before the summer

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Do you have enough slack in the fuel line (especially if you have that spiral stuff around it)?

Did you remove the throttle body end? If so, did you connect the right end and route the hose right? If you have a 90° fitting, it might go on the throttle body.

Your english is great. Better than my Finnish by a long shot.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Also, I don't think you want to sand the outlet too much- the o-ring inside of the disconnect forms a seal with the outlet's surface to keep the high pressure fuel from leaking.

One more: when fully inserted the quick disconnect will look like it still has 5mm to go... but you will not be able to pull it off without pressing the buttons; and you may not hear or feel a click.

 

[Mehusieni]

Dear Mr. Trenchcoat85,

I hope my post finds you in good health and at an appropriate time. It's good to have someone to correspond with at desperate times like these. My English is pretty fluent thanks to the motion pictures from your country. Now back to the matter at hand.

Yes the fuel line has enough wiggle room.

I removed the end attached to the tank because it's much more accessible than the throttle body's end.

I've taken the tank on and off multiple times without any problems and I know how much it has to go in, but the problem is that it goes in so close to the "locking point" that I can't tell if it goes over the lip but doesn't lock or the white things inside the line are mushed and stopping it going over the lip. The white buttons and everything are intact and the line seals but I can pull it off without pressing the buttons. All the other times I've put the line in it just click but now no matter how much I push, it just doesn't want to lock. I thought about replacing the fuel line with a generic fuel line with the correct diameter and put hose clamps on the ends but I don't think that's worth it considering a new line cost only ~30€ but I have to wait weeks for that to arrive.

Yours truly,
Mehusieni (JuiceMushroom)

 

[Rot Box]

I just replaced my fuel line last week because it stopped clicking/snapping in place as it should. I tried everything I could think of to get it to work but nothing helped. I guess the white piece just looses its strength over time.. Anyway might be a good idea to just replace it. Hope this helps

Andrew

 

[Trenchcoat85]

you can get those female "Bundy" connectors for $1.50 delivered on ebay; either straight or 90°. For some reason, the males are like $6-7 but are way easier to manufacture. I guess it's the economy of scale- the market probably moves 50 females for every male. gender bias!

 

[Mehusieni]

The white plastic button is the spring and has the lips which retain the disconnect on to the outlet.

Is the male outlet and ridge still intact? (Red plastic piece famous for being fragile)

Turn the hose around and see if the other end works.

Couple of pics?

I've decided to replace the fuel hose upon the next valve clearance check since I got a summer job and that 30€ for a new one isn't even going to sting. As for the fork seals, I'll be buying the motion pro fork seal cleaner tool because the seals are more like weeping than leaking. If it doesn't work, I'll take the forks to a professional.

Thank you all for answers though, love this community

 

[Trenchcoat85]

you could make your own for less than 8€ total. The hose doesn't have to be nothing special, it just has to handle the fuel pump pressure- and most workaday fuel hose is adequate. You need less than 12" (30cm) 1/4" (6mm, don't go 8mm) IIRC.

The stock hose is engineered the way it is to reduce vapor escape- not a huge issue for bikes.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/mini-and-micro-projects-for-my-310.84259/#post-580688

good luck, which ever route you take.

 

[wags]

Thanks for the info, my connecter needs replaced.
Looking on e-bay I see there is different sizes
6.30mm 9.49mm and 7.89mm do you recall the
correct size? Is the hose size 1/4 inch ?

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Thanks for the info, my connecter needs replaced.
Looking on e-bay I see there is different sizes
6.30mm 9.49mm and 7.89mm do you recall the
correct size? Is the hose size 1/4 inch ?

7.89mm, and the hose barb is bigger than 1/4" ....for 5/16" ID nylon hose (8mm or 9mm barb). if you're making your own use 1/4" hose on this stock barb size.

 

[R_Little]

Trenchcoat,

I am impressed by your knowledge base.

Are you in manufacturing engineering?

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I'm a retired aerospace engineer. well, I did the silicon valley thang for a while too.

knowledge base: thanks, but not in this case. 2 weeks after i un-crated my '14 310r, I broke the bundy connector on the upper fuel line (my bike has the updated aluminum tank outlet). Well, I gave up on car technology in the '70s or early 80s- with the exception of 50 year old tech in air-cooled VWs; so I was not familiar with these connectors. And that fuel line was like $30+ at that time from Husqvarna. I talked to BillF (BMP) trying to figure out where & what these connectors were.

It did not take much searching to find out that these had been standardized on cars for decades. So I got the Dorman connectors, Gates fuel line and made my own fuel line for under $10. Later, after more study I realized the American Chinese-made connectors were sucky, and researched the euro connectors- better IMO. And the Chinese make them by the tons everyday and sell them cheap.

I've got lots of 'em now: homemade fuel pressure gauge, fuel injector cleaner, fuel line extender, gender bender, and fuel line plugs & caps. Of course I've spent about $30 on this stuff so....

Bundy connector hint- to release them: press the buttons hard, and push the connector IN... then pull it off. easy-peasy

After all this, I gotta say that this connection technology is wasted on motorcycles (not enough plumbing to justify it). I think the KTM methodology is better- which is basically just clamps on hoses (except their inline filter maybe?).

 

[wags]

Thanks for the info.
The connector on my bike has wire ties holding it together
time to replace it.

 

[wags]

pulled it apart today and it is marked 7.89 m.m on the connecter

 

[ghte]

I too am thankful that Mr. Trenchcoat is on board. I read his comments even if the issues have yet to occur on my beasts. An early heads up is a good thing me thinks.