• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Dash repair

TerraCzar said:
I have removed the dash. I hear parts rattling inside. At this point I'm done. You need something smaller than a T-10 torx.
Click to expand...


I bought a small kit of torx security tools (need these to open Tivo and TomTom units). Only cost me about $6 from Dick Smith Electronics (similar to Tandy/RadioShack). I expect you'll probably find them at Walmart. It included T5, T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, T15 T20. The security bits will work just fine in regular torx screws.
 
What is the s mode? I ride my terra daily and have no clue what the s mode button on the dash is. Is only on the abs bikes? Although the terra here in the usa did not come with abs.
 
The dash has an 'M' button and an 'S' button. The 'S' button is used to switch the information displayed on the dash.
 
TerraCzar check the ews ring around the ignition switch. Check the two wires coming out of the switch are still attached or not broken. Check the connection above the headlight. Remove the windscreen and the connector is attached to the metal support bar.
 
Baddrapp said:
TerraCzar check the ews ring around the ignition switch. Check the two wires coming out of the switch are still attached or not broken. Check the connection above the headlight. Remove the windscreen and the connector is attached to the metal support bar.
Click to expand...

Any damage will likely be at the attachment point of the 2 tiny cables on the ignition lock antenna...I'm still undecided about the very stiff piece of cable from the last connector to the actual antenna. For some reason the "cable" is nearly as stiff as a thin wire. Which in return adds extra strain to those 2 tiny solder-points on the antenna ring.

@ TerraCzar...this might come handy http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ignition-transponder-bypass.43485/
 
TerraCzar said:
Good to know. Also I put it back together and now have ews light on dash. No start.
Click to expand...


The dash (known as the Kombi in BMW circles) is also a component of the immobilizer. If there's no obvious issue with the antenna or wiring or your key you might want to check the dash wiring and that you haven't dislodged anthing when you had it apart. Worst case, get it to a workshop and put it on MOSS and they should be able to diagnose which component is causing the EWS.
 
I'm waiting for a replacement dash, mine has a large hole in it. At the moment I have a zip-tie squeezing the main cable connector to the dash. If the connector isn't tight then it comes up with the ews error.
 
I'm waiting on a heap of parts for the front as part of an accident insurance claim. I think the parts were ordered sometime mid April. Some parts have come in but I'm not sure if the dash has. From memory... back then there wasn't a delay on the dash as they had done a fast replacement for another TR a week or two before.
 
Thanks guys I found the issue. The main wire harness behind headlight. It was not pushed in all the way. It has to "click" when you push it back in. Weird how the ews message and another light were still on in dash with loose connection. Started right up.
 
TerraCzar said:
Thanks guys I found the issue. The main wire harness behind headlight. It was not pushed in all the way. It has to "click" when you push it back in. Weird how the ews message and another light were still on in dash with loose connection. Started right up.
Click to expand...


Good to hear that it was something simple to resolve :)
 
TerraCzar said:
Thanks guys I found the issue. The main wire harness behind headlight. It was not pushed in all the way. It has to "click" when you push it back in. Weird how the ews message and another light were still on in dash with loose connection. Started right up.
Click to expand...



Were you able to fix the button?
 
Well here we go...T6 is the right size Torx bit. The set I bought from Walmart, (Ultra Steel Brand), is very weak. By the time I got all the screws back in the dash, the bit was stripped. It might last longer for smaller projects. Anyway, there are 3 circlips to remove the dash from bike. Using needle nose pliers you can reach them all, but the lone one to the rear is a tad more difficult. Be careful they will "spring" off, and you can lose one. I did. Onto the dash opening procedure, remove all the Torx screws, and pry apart with your hands gently. You will feel the seal as you open it up. It rests in a groove for easy replacement. All three buttons, "M", "S", and Hazard button use the same plastic push pin setup. (Very brittle). All of these will break with use. I just did a quick fix and super glued in 3 spots. The side extension arm, a little dab on the bottom by the circuit board, and just prior to putting the dash back together I put some on the bottom side of the "S" mode button. After reinstall the button works again.....for now.105_4121.JPG
 

Attachments

  • 105_4123.JPG
    105_4123.JPG
    91.9 KB · Views: 174
  • 105_4124.JPG
    105_4124.JPG
    78.5 KB · Views: 198
  • 105_4125.JPG
    105_4125.JPG
    60.7 KB · Views: 166
Ogre_fl said:
Do you think there is a way to wire a switch on the bars to operate the "S" button?
Click to expand...
Well it needs to be pushed down, on the board there is a pressure switch. By the way it's not working anymore, lol. I did not think it would last. Also, I have nearly 20,000 miles on the bike, so lots of refuels, and reseting of trip meter, and UG meter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top