• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

current TE 610's /suspension set-up/

5 wt oil

I switched to 5 wt today, 130 mm level. The forks are super plush but bottom a little easy. I'll go up 10mm at a time until it's right. Definitely worth the 10 bucks and 1.5 hours.

However, I did snap two bolts off the upper triple clamp, even though I was torquing them to spec.... I swear this bike loses more hardware than anything I have ever owned.
 
Leafster;34868 said:
I switched to 5 wt today, 130 mm level. The forks are super plush but bottom a little easy. I'll go up 10mm at a time until it's right. Definitely worth the 10 bucks and 1.5 hours.

However, I did snap two bolts off the upper triple clamp, even though I was torquing them to spec.... I swear this bike loses more hardware than anything I have ever owned.
Click to expand...

Damn, that has to suck. My torque wrench and the Husky have never met.

What is your weight?
 
Leafster;34868 said:
However, I did snap two bolts off the upper triple clamp, even though I was torquing them to spec.
Click to expand...

Wow, I'm amazed by that. Really.

When I installed my Cycra guards I used the triple tree front mounts, so had to find some longer aftermarket bolts. They've presented zero problems.
 
Leafster;34868 said:
I switched to 5 wt today, 130 mm level. The forks are super plush but bottom a little easy. I'll go up 10mm at a time until it's right. Definitely worth the 10 bucks and 1.5 hours.

However, I did snap two bolts off the upper triple clamp, even though I was torquing them to spec.... I swear this bike loses more hardware than anything I have ever owned.
Click to expand...

What bike and year? 2007?
 
Leafster said:
5 wt oil

I switched to 5 wt today, 130 mm level. The forks are super plush but bottom a little easy. I'll go up 10mm at a time until it's right. Definitely worth the 10 bucks and 1.5 hours.

However, I did snap two bolts off the upper triple clamp, even though I was torquing them to spec.... I swear this bike loses more hardware than anything I have ever owned.
Click to expand...
My question for the forum is how to check fork oil level on an 08 TE610 with the forks on the bike.

I understand the forks should be fully extended and I want to extract some.

When I unscrew the upper caps to about 10 threads showing, they simply seem to spin and not come off the upper tube .
I have risers so I have some clearance between the caps and handlebars.

Thanks all
 
The forks need to come off, which is a 10 minute job.
Unscrew the caps and hold the nut on the damper rod to remove the cap.
Pull the spring and push the inner slider and damper rod to bottom.
Now you are ready to measure.
 
Xcuvator said:
The forks need to come off, which is a 10 minute job.
Unscrew the caps and hold the nut on the damper rod to remove the cap.
Pull the spring and push the inner slider and damper rod to bottom.
Now you are ready to measure.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
Once I have the caps unthreaded (I only did one) when it seems to simply spin and click a little I am now assuming all I have to do is lift up more agressively to get it to come up revealing the damper rod and nut?
 
BarberPole said:
Thanks,
Once I have the caps unthreaded (I only did one) when it seems to simply spin and click a little I am now assuming all I have to do is lift up more agressively to get it to come up revealing the damper rod and nut?
Click to expand...
Correct, the only resistance you will feel when you lift the cap after unthreading it will be the rebound dampening of your fork.
I have a thin 19mm wrench to slip in between the spring coils to hold the square nut on the damper rod, but a standard wrench works.
And I see I mistyped, I meant to say- push the outer slider and damper rod to the bottom.
Good time to change oil.
 
Xcuvator said:
Correct, the only resistance you will feel when you lift the cap after unthreading it will be the rebound dampening of your fork.
I have a thin 19mm wrench to slip in between the spring coils to hold the square nut on the damper rod, but a standard wrench works.
And I see I mistyped, I meant to say- push the outer slider and damper rod to the bottom.
Good time to change oil.
Click to expand...

Thanks all. Good info.
 
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