wallybean
Mini-Sponsor
Ok, it is actually 176.6 cc's. 62.00 x 58.5 mm. Got it together with amazingly little heart ache. The cases had to be enlarged just a bit to give plenty of room but other than that very straight forward modification.
How does it run......Who knew 12 cc's and 4 mm of stroke could make that much difference. I only have a couple of heat cycles and about 10 minutes of riding on the motor and it is a keeper. If anything it is smoother than the 165 with immediate torque and pulls hard to sign off everywhere. Pulls the front end off the ground through the first 5 gears just banging gears. I wasn't trying and was sitting virtually on the tank. It isn't even broken in yet. My digital rpm gauge was reading slightly over 11.5 K rpm just running it through the gears no holding it wide open in a gear. This is definitely an improvement in top end and my port timing with this kit is quite a bit retarded.
Some details of the kit:
Crank was stroked, trued, and balanced for a 4mm gain.
Installed Micro Blue mains and new seals.
Installed a .040" spacer plate with .028" of gaskets.
Machined the other .030" plus squish dimensions out of the Head.
Cylinder used was a WRE/SM 125 cylinder(Thanks John! I knew I would find a use for that cylinder) that comes with an oem 3mm retarded port timing. This allowed me to raise the cylinder and still maintain 1 mm of retarded timing. With a standard cylinder I will be adding a spacer plate to the head and cutting o-ring grooves in the head. This will allow me to not have to advance the port timing so far on the oem cylinders and maintain essentially the same number of degrees of opening as stock. Will gain even more top end than my current configuration of slightly retarded timing.
I built this kit on the request of TNTTimber and installed the WRE/SM cylinder for my own benefit. He will want the oem cylinder with its more aggressive timing. The issue is that I don't know that I am willing to pull this motor out and part with it. Sorry Nate, I can't help it
. I will start building another one immediately. 
A couple of things that might help others with crank issues. When I installed the main bearings I kept them in the freezer and then applied just a little heat to the case insert. They almost drop in with out having to do any work with the press. I then repeated this by freezing the crank and applying only a warming to the bearings with a heat gun. The crank slipped into the bearings very easily. No side stresses were exerted during installation. I am sure this is fairly common practice but just thought it would be worth repeating.
How does it run......Who knew 12 cc's and 4 mm of stroke could make that much difference. I only have a couple of heat cycles and about 10 minutes of riding on the motor and it is a keeper. If anything it is smoother than the 165 with immediate torque and pulls hard to sign off everywhere. Pulls the front end off the ground through the first 5 gears just banging gears. I wasn't trying and was sitting virtually on the tank. It isn't even broken in yet. My digital rpm gauge was reading slightly over 11.5 K rpm just running it through the gears no holding it wide open in a gear. This is definitely an improvement in top end and my port timing with this kit is quite a bit retarded.
Some details of the kit:
Crank was stroked, trued, and balanced for a 4mm gain.
Installed Micro Blue mains and new seals.
Installed a .040" spacer plate with .028" of gaskets.
Machined the other .030" plus squish dimensions out of the Head.
Cylinder used was a WRE/SM 125 cylinder(Thanks John! I knew I would find a use for that cylinder) that comes with an oem 3mm retarded port timing. This allowed me to raise the cylinder and still maintain 1 mm of retarded timing. With a standard cylinder I will be adding a spacer plate to the head and cutting o-ring grooves in the head. This will allow me to not have to advance the port timing so far on the oem cylinders and maintain essentially the same number of degrees of opening as stock. Will gain even more top end than my current configuration of slightly retarded timing.
I built this kit on the request of TNTTimber and installed the WRE/SM cylinder for my own benefit. He will want the oem cylinder with its more aggressive timing. The issue is that I don't know that I am willing to pull this motor out and part with it. Sorry Nate, I can't help it
. I will start building another one immediately. A couple of things that might help others with crank issues. When I installed the main bearings I kept them in the freezer and then applied just a little heat to the case insert. They almost drop in with out having to do any work with the press. I then repeated this by freezing the crank and applying only a warming to the bearings with a heat gun. The crank slipped into the bearings very easily. No side stresses were exerted during installation. I am sure this is fairly common practice but just thought it would be worth repeating.
