countershaft seal/bearing

[Skoalman]

I've got a classic CS seal/bearing leak. My shop replaced one 2 years ago on one of my WR 400's and they did not have to split the cases to do it. Unfortunately, the shop owner has moved on to bigger and better things. I vaguely remember him showing me this special tool he made to removed the bearing...but it's exact configuration escapes me. So, it turns out that one of my other WR 400s has the same leak too...Like I said I know it can be removed and replaced without having to split the cases...Does anyone have any experience with performing this procedure?

Many thanks in advance!

John

 

[fran...k.]

Well sort of, the first husky I bought had had that bearing changed by the dealer in the fashion you mention. The guy I bought it from told me about it said something like fingers that go inbetween the balls. I ran that engine until it eventually wore out the starter gears and then the crank finally gave out. By then it was leaking oil pretty much from that spot though I think the bearing was so loose in the case the leakage was from that source not the actual seal of the bearing. It doesn't really have a seal just the seal of the bearing if I recall correctly.

I might add that the logic of changing that bearing was preventative maintance not leak related.

 

[Skoalman]

Thanks...I don't like leaks of any kind...so I never run the bike when any type fluid is leaking...I'm all about preventative maintenance. Oil is cheaper than steel!

 

[Skoalman]

So, has anybody ever replaced the countershaft seal/bearing? If not, I'll just take it to the shop. Just trying to learn how to do it myself so I DON"T have to take to the shop.

Thanks,

John

 

[fran...k.]

You got me wondering about how to do it. I thought up two ways.
a) take an old bearing and bust it up to get some balls, weld the balls onto say 2 1/2" long 1/4 20 bolts where the hex head was, grind flats on the balls so they could be fitted into the bearing once the cage has been demolished and the balls moved around, fit the created ball/stud into a puller of the type with slots or into a fixture to attach to a slap hammer. My recollection from 1992 conversation was that slap hammer was the way it was done however the guy talking was also in the auto body trades.

b) use a welder to attach something to the bearing, if you don't have tig probably protecting things with pieces of copper pipe either of the right sizes or small stuff cut open and hammered flat and wrapped into cylinders. If you only had to do one I think cutting a disc about the size of the seal of the bearing tacking it to the race or races after attaching some way to connect the disc to your pulling device.

Like stated earlier if the root cause is that bearing pocket needs a bronze sleeve chances are it isn't going to cure the issue.

If the shop and pay option ends up being the chosen way perhaps you can update this thread later.
Fran

 

[oldhuskychuck]

you can actually buy a seal, and bearing puller at any auto parts supply store.

 

[fran...k.]

That is kind of funny. I tied to buy a 5 mm tap or perhaps a six mm one at a local auto parts place which just built a new building and the guy offered to sell me a tap and die set no less than three times and probably four times even though I tried to explain about different pitches of threads and he didn't know what was in the little set. They stock what they stock and hire who they hire, unfortunately the ones with stacks of books and guys who actually can look up valves for 50 year old tractors or seals for my forks are probably not going to survive. I am not sure even the snap on truck would have a puller for this application or ever sold one on order.

Fran

 

[oldhuskychuck]

my bearing supply house sells a wall full of pullers..
check em on line
Whistler bearing..ill see if i can find a link.

http://www.trywhisler.com/

 

[Skoalman]

You got me wondering about how to do it. I thought up two ways.
a) take an old bearing and bust it up to get some balls, weld the balls onto say 2 1/2" long 1/4 20 bolts where the hex head was, grind flats on the balls so they could be fitted into the bearing once the cage has been demolished and the balls moved around, fit the created ball/stud into a puller of the type with slots or into a fixture to attach to a slap hammer. My recollection from 1992 conversation was that slap hammer was the way it was done however the guy talking was also in the auto body trades.

b) use a welder to attach something to the bearing, if you don't have tig probably protecting things with pieces of copper pipe either of the right sizes or small stuff cut open and hammered flat and wrapped into cylinders. If you only had to do one I think cutting a disc about the size of the seal of the bearing tacking it to the race or races after attaching some way to connect the disc to your pulling device.

Like stated earlier if the root cause is that bearing pocket needs a bronze sleeve chances are it isn't going to cure the issue.

If the shop and pay option ends up being the chosen way perhaps you can update this thread later.
Fran

Now, I actually remember the shop made this special tool like you said in #2 and he used a puller after that to get it out...That bike hasn't leaked one drop of oil since then...I spoke with Phillip at Husqvarna parts about this issue at the time it happened and he said sort of said the same thing. Thanks Fran for reminding me.

John

 

[NYWR430]

Here is a link to a similar bearing removal on a KTM LC4 engine. The link shows the procedure for removing the bearing using both a professional and homemade puller. The same puller and procedure should work for the CS bearing on the Husky.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73558

 

[Skoalman]

NYWR430...I'll say it again...This is truly the best and most resourceful Husqvarna forum in the world!!!....Thanks for the link...Now, I can do this thing myself!

John

 

[jo360]

Another way would be to use a steel tube welded to the bearing with a nut welded to the other end and a bolt that pushes onto the shaft or you could weld a slide hammer onto the tube as an alternative to putting pressure on the shaft.tube should be slightly smaller than the outer of the bearing.

 

[Bodger]

Wowee!...all such good advice, is this place great or what?

geez, good stuff.

A bodger welding that tubing to the bearing in a few spots may enthusiastically produce enough heat to allow the bearing to come out, but a wet towel cooling the weld quickly after each tack will keep the overall heat build up down...and keep a wet cleanish tucked in all around will keep weld slag from getting onto or into other places on the bike, setting your shop on fire, or you on fire.

Besides fire prevention this is also about not putting sooo much heat into tacking the tubing to the bearing that you melt the cases..which CAN happen...well, not to you maybe, but somebody somewhere.

Don't be that guy. That's my job.

You live long enough you will do probably all of those scary things at some point...and we won't talk about my missing beard...sniff.

Locally heating the case with your plumber's torch will do for the overall case heating, still with the prudent use of wet towels...just don't tell honey where they came from...
And you wouldn't be the first home or professional mechanic to get distracted by whatever and torch the gas line.
Just don't forget to post the pikkies of that too.



The other good trick here suggested above for bearing removal is the bolts with pieces welded onto them that will fit in between the balls and grab both races when twisted 90 degrees, great!

..how cool that Husky's are made this way, my old brit bikes, ha!....no!...splitsville!

 

[GaryM]

Well it could be done but?? Husky cases are really not a press fit for bearings at all! The mag case material can be damaged on the inner surface of the bearing bore when pulling or pressing.

It would work really well on Aluminum case.

Now if you could heat the case to the same degrees as oven heating, but its not the even heating with heat gun. Its possible I guess.

With so little good quality cases left I would not risk damage to the case. Just split the case and do a complete inspection of all the internals.

Again its the special light magnesium case material that is the reason not to pull or press bearings on any later model Husky case even when split.

 

[hva-factory]

When you have replaced the bearing, upgrade to this:

http://hva-factory.com/bottom-end-g...g-flange-and-splined-spacer-seal-replaces-161

Andy.