• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Core Rekluse long term wear&tear

ray_ray

Mini-Sponsor
My 2010 TC250 with the Core EXP rekluse clutch is giving issues and the company has been pretty helpful so far... I just wanna bounce all this off you guys ...

After I figured the device out, I don't really need this type of riding help, so I was using it as a manual clutch almost exclusively...

The device worked as expected up to ~260 hrs or so and it just started slowly dragging too much and just stopped auto-feathering ... I tried to adjust it but no luck yet ...

Now, no auto-feathering when stopped and with easy riding on the street, it feels ok but opening the throttle up and its feels like it slips bad and then just grabs ... Can't be ridden like this.

--

Here is what rekluse is telling me and I hope someone out there has done this work before and can give me a clue before I start down tearing into it ..

At 300hrs you are most likely due to replace the clutch pack and EXP. I recommend pulling the clutch cover and checking the following.

Check the drive plates (steels) to make sure they are not warped. Set them on a flat surface and tap around the outer edge. If they wiggle, they need replaced.

Check the frictions. If they are glazed and hard, or worn down replace them with OEM frictions.

Measure the EXP disc at the friction pads, if less than or close to .416" thick replace the EXP bases.

Push the EXP weights out as far as you can, 2 at a time with your fingertips. They should return on their own. If they hang up, replace the EXP bases.

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Has anyone dealt with all this?


Not sure how this is gonna turn out ...maybe its just the friction plates .. In any case, I'm about ready to just swap this device out with anyone who might be interested for an entire stock clutch. I'm long-term here and don't want down-time due to non-stock parts.
 
Well, I'm no Rekluse expert, the EXP 2.0 in my 300 is the first for me. I thought I was going to have to open it up, but then Terminator cable, EZ3 lever and careful adjustment did the trick and I haven't had to touch it in over 2 months. Very happy with it at this point actually.

The recommendations above sound reasonable to me. With that many hours would be no surprise to need new friction plates at least.
Waiting on Rekluse parts from Boise could be a deal breaker though. If you're not hooked on the Rekluse, maybe better off with a stock clutch.

For me, like someone else here said, it's a game changer. And, like I said in another thread, with my current setup it really does feel like cheating. Now that I've adapted to it my technique is much smoother, less fatigue and faster overall than I would be without it.

good luck!
 
These devices work alright just not what I need for where and how I ride ...I can see why so many of you guys like them though ... The thing is like a luxury device to me ... I could stop and take a pic really quickly with it ... I had to force myself to keep my finger off the clutch but I did finally that so I could learn how it worked .. It made a squawking sound sometimes but apparently it was slipping its' self lots of times without the squawking ... Their was a couple times I was in some sticky++ clay mud on an uphill and I was feathering the clutch to keep the RPMs up and it started squawking and overriding my feathering ... That was a little weird to happen on the fly ...

Still seems weird that it overdrags when idling and slips too much at speed ... I gotta get in there and have a look ... Plates were just 86$ and that's not too bad but I've never replaced a plate on any Husky in my life ... I'll have to make changes somehow, even if I have to cut the mileage back on this bike and ride a different Husky .... Stock clutch basket is ~300$ and I'm not sure that is the only part I need to go back to a stock bike ...
 
$300 dollars thats a bargin a dollar an hour!! Fantastic grab it with both hands ray ray and lob the rekluse on an auction site.
 
Yep. sounds like worn clutch plates. As they wear, the clearance gap reduces causing it to drag. If you wore out your clutch pack, I suspect you were using it more than you realized. at 260 hrs. you would probably have worn plates even if it were the stock clutch
 
I have the EXP 2.0 in a Honda CRF450R and have used it for about 4 years now. When I had the same issues I fixed it with using heavier weights from Rekluse. They cost about $90. That fixed it and has worked great for a few years now. I am still on the same plates as when I installed the unit.
Also be sure the clutch is adjusted correctly or your plates will not last.

Paw Paw
 
I have the EXP 2.0 in a Honda CRF450R and have used it for about 4 years now. When I had the same issues I fixed it with using heavier weights from Rekluse. They cost about $90. That fixed it and has worked great for a few years now. I am still on the same plates as when I installed the unit.
Also be sure the clutch is adjusted correctly or your plates will not last.

Paw Paw
Wow, that's great news. If mine lasts half that long I'll be happy.

...Stock clutch basket is ~300$ and I'm not sure that is the only part I need to go back to a stock bike ...

A Rekluse clutch basket is cheaper than that: http://rekluse.mybigcommerce.com/husqvarna-basket-te-tc-txc-250-310/

:cheers:
 
I'd say the ramps are worn out/notched on the inside of the rekluse plates. Take the assembly out, push the wedges in with your fingers or the edge of 'something'. Silky smooth is the desire. If that doesn't appear to satisfy, remove the six 1/2 turn screws and the springs, one side at a time and keep the rekluse assembly together. Lift the top plate up then roll and inspect the 'troughs' the wedge balls roll in. Move the wedges, check for smoothness. Those can be purchased separately if necessary.
Yep. sounds like worn clutch plates. As they wear, the clearance gap reduces causing it to drag. If you wore out your clutch pack, I suspect you were using it more than you realized. at 260 hrs. you would probably have worn plates even if it were the stock clutch

Confused me on this one. Anytime something something wears, it usually increases clearance...
 
Ok ...Went ahead and started tearing into this device ..Came apart pretty easy ..

Here is what I'm seeing initially before any measuring of disc fibers or anything else is examined too much AND before I have contacted rekluse ..


I'm guessing this is the issue .. These fibers are torn off this side of this EXP friction disk(?)
100_0001.JPG

Here is the other side of the EXP friction disk with the fibers attached
100_0002.JPG

Any clues on what these small oRings are for?
100_0003.JPG
 
Here are a few pics of the base friction plates ..

fBob .. How does that wear look on that middle pic? All look about like that ... The scrapes on the plate there is not nearly as bad as it looks. Action feels OK but not really sure if these plates are Ok ...

100_0004.JPG100_0005.JPG100_0006.JPG

Here are the springs ..They seem OK and I'm still checking them out...And the pic is blurry but you can see they are different colors ...
100_0009.JPG
 
yeah thats not good (friction material existing). I helped Rekluse with the development of the Z-start for the WR250 way back in 07. The bike we installed and tested it on is a good friend Adams. He is still riding that bike some 8500 miles later and has never even popped the cover to look at the autoclutch. Amazing how long that one has lasted with zero attention. Its a much different setup than yours using the original design and replacing the pressure plate. Seems a lot more robust design than that EXP thing. Buddy Scott toasted his EXP at the Idaho ISDE this year (YZ250).
 
Rekluse is saying they will warrant that plate with the fibers missing currently .. Knocked me back a couple steps actually having a company actually support their product and customers in such a way ... ~Decades ago, ~false\over-glorified advertising of a product and warranty work that was usually a fight to obtain was one of the top reasons I stopped spending $ on lots of different things ...

I was gonna get rid of this thing, but maybe not now ... Usually not a good idea to toss the good ones overboard ...

Just to add a little more, Rekluse was sent the pic of the plates and asked what they think happened so that I would make the same mistake again riding with it ... It was their idea for the warranty work ..
 
Fair play that type or reply should happen more often, good effort on rekluse's behalf.
Will they cover shipping?
 
Rekluse is a top of the line company....

I personally like the Z Start PRO better but....

You need to check your clutch system more often with a Rekluse.... not just freeplay but take it off, take it apart, give it a good cleaning, a good inspection, and reinstall to the proper specs....

Its not hard, but it seems most people seem to put it in and just forget there is a clutch there.... it takes regular inspection..... do that and you will get tons of hours out of it....

I use mine literally once or twice a race as a safety from stalling or if i screw up a hill or something.... I know guys that become lazy with them and tax the hell out of it.....
 
Rekluse is a top of the line company....

they are and have always been quick to warranty their work.

I personally like the Z Start PRO better but....

I do too. The EXP eliminates to many fiction surfaces and does not have the space for enough weight for the centrifugal balls for me and why they recommend not racing with it. To me it is kinda over stressed / limited space for robust design. The Z-start pro is much better from my experience.
 
Ya i decided on my current bike that i'd just go without it and deal with it.... I had a EXP on a husky and took it out.....
 
These guys are on top of their jobs and business ... Shipped free and by UPS ... My hats off to this company :)

It was all so quick and handled in such a responsible manner ... I had to talk with their shipping department once during this and they were on top of everything same as person who was initially helping me in their service department ...

--

140-213 EXP 3.0 BASE - H250 2
RMS-294 3.0 Wedge Kit - 250 Medium 1
Warranty - Par... Warranty
Number Of Packages: 1, Shipped via UPS Worldwide Expedited
 
You guys seem on top of this device also... If I'm hearing you right, the Husky power is over-the-line judging from those torn fibers? If so, not quite sure exactly how this next setup of this device should be to deal with Husky over-power. Still planning to use this device in manual mode as much as possible (same as before) with any necessary changes to help maximize life of device. On the rider side, the harder-riding stuff I post out here may not be the overload issue on this device ... I'm currently guessing its the street-side type stuff I do here on my way to outer dirt riding on several miles of uphill cement roads is where I might be doing the most damage .... All that is WAG quality for sure.
 
Still planning to use this device in manual mode as much as possible (same as before) with any necessary changes to help maximize life of device.

Using the override more I believe will shorten the lifespan of the part. You are in effect allowing higher RPM and quicker engagement than the autoclutch would do itself which is most likely stressing the friction pads more.
 
Using the override more I believe will shorten the lifespan of the part. You are in effect allowing higher RPM and quicker engagement than the autoclutch would do itself which is most likely stressing the friction pads more.
I agree with that. Mine started fading at @ 2 hr riding mark and thought I was due for a rebuild, but it's still within spec. If I lay off the lever and let it do it's job, no fading or daily adjusting.
 
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