Core Rekluse EXP thruster washer

[ray_ray]

I got new parts for this device installed and it seems to work as expected as far as the auto clutching stuff .... Just rode it around the block a couple times ..

The issue is when I use the clutch manually, the clutch produces a loud squealing type sound now when releasing ... It was not doing this before the new EXP friction disk was installed ... This sound is ugly ...

UPDATE: Any manual clutch usage just leaves the clutches plates grinding and slipping .. Maybe the fiber disks are bad also ... Clueless after playing with it about all day ...

The manual talks about washers being on that throw-out piece for some models.. I have no washers on mine and just trying to verify everything is correct before I really bust something ..

That's a bearing in the middle and the thruster washer sits on top ... Is this washer needed for a 2010 TC250 engine? Don't see how I lost it off there but maybe I did ..



Here's a video of the sound ... The bike is in 1st gear and I'm releasing the clutch lever and you can hear the sound it is creating as the clutch starts engaging ... On the one test ride, I do not think the sound was being made when bike is rolling and the clutch lever was played with ..

View: https://youtu.be/YY-MMmj5qbA

Sounds like that bearing above spinning on that throwout shaft or that shaft spinning on the pressure plate?

In any event, is this expected sound? I can ride with it but need verification ....

 

[ray_ray]

After further looking at this device, it has become to light that the clutch basket cage is rubbing on the outer case housing and probably causing the squealing sound that has just started... No pics as too dark but I'll add something tomorrow ..

Seems that clutch basket has a little wiggle when I grab it and apply pressure ... So I'm guessing some bearing that it rides on is going out ...

There are the parts ... I can't tell what might be bad that is causing wiggle in that basket ...

 

[Darkside]

you should definitely have a thrust washer. No way that bearing should be pushing on the alum pressure plate. When I installed my rekluse, I forgot to subtract a plate and installed too many. so my pressure plate rubbed on the cover when I pulled the clutch. Had to change my oil 3 times before I got all the alum flakes out. Oil looked like metallic flake paint when I realized the problem.

 

[ray_ray]

Ok it's easy to lose count on most things I deal with it seems ...

Don't see how I lost a special looking washer like that but I'll look around the garage area again ... This is all just compounding on top of me ...

What about the wiggle in the basket cage? That item 4 is a bushing and I really see how that basket is held in place with that ...

 

[robertaccio]

That item is your throw out bearing assy 17,18,19 it should always be thrust washered (19) to the alloy pressure plate. the bearing surfaces are the assy itself (steel)(17)and washer(19) which actually mates to the pressure plate(20) (alloy) it lifts your pressure plate(20) which releases the clutch, its rollered because the clutch is spinning and (non spinning)pushrod(3) from the slave cyl needs to push it.
that wobble and other loose clutch feelings usually has a few origins most likely your clutch bushings(7) are hardened/shattered/ broken etc. ZipTy has a kit for these, also likely is the thorn in design of the red husky clutch assy the clutch bushing item 4, ZipTy modded them with deep end chamfers to hold oil to be directed into the oil lube channels they cut in the bushing(4) plus they are bronze and wear out.
Mine froze/seized at a race start on my 2013 TXC310R and caused the most embarrassing DNF ever. Another reason I was happy for the Kato takeover.....

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tco_fDHqISs&index=9&list=FLa_bIxEVGGk17qRbownIzVA


POS......the bike/hated the bike from one second to the next

 

[ray_ray]

I think I can remember when that broke with you as it was such an odd failure I though at the time ... Breaking on the start line is gonna be about the worst looking place possible but does allow easy easy back to the truck.

Let me see if I understand the parts correctly ..

1) Bushing (4)
2) Entire shaft
3) Other piece on shaft along side item 7

I guess I'll send a message to Zip and see what parts they have now ...

--

How do you tear into the engine? Will removing that large nut that holds the basket on allow access to the bearing or do the cases need to be split? Maybe removing the right side engine case of the engine will allow access?

 

[gots_a_sol]

Removing the clutch cover should provide plenty of room to pull the basket out too.


Also, your thrust washer may just be stuck to the pressure plate.

 

[rancher1]

Ray, gots has it correct sometimes the oil sticks the thrust washer to the pressure plate so be sure to turn it over and check when you remove it.

 

[robertaccio]

I think I can remember when that broke with you as it was such an odd failure I though at the time ... Breaking on the start line is gonna be about the worst looking place possible but does allow easy easy back to the truck.

Let me see if I understand the parts correctly ..

1) Bushing (4)
2) Entire shaft
3) Other piece on shaft along side item 7

I guess I'll send a message to Zip and see what parts they have now ...

--

How do you tear into the engine? Will removing that large nut that holds the basket on allow access to the bearing or do the cases need to be split? Maybe removing the right side engine case of the engine will allow access?

all you need to open is the clutch cover to remove the entire basket. it really is a simple job, but make sure the engine/clutch assy is locked with a tool or in gear or blocked with some wood or something. impact tool is easiest and best.