• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Cooked my top end on my 2012 WR300

Jaz_83

Jaz_83

Husqvarna
B Class
Been out to Kingston South Eastern Australia riding in dunes with a paddle tyre on. Had severe issues with bogging and seeming to run out of fuel. After losing all throttle and locking up the back wheel, I came to a stop and went to kick it over only to have no compression. May be rings, piston or both. I'm blaming my poor tuning skills and or the mikuni carb at this point.

Any suggestions on rebuild kits?

Will probably buy a lectron as well, I hate this temperemental mikuni.

PICS ADDED PAGE 2
 
Just pulled the pipe off and had a look up the exhaust port, piston and rings are fried. There is plenty of piston matter on the bore. Hopefully it can be honed clean and just a fresh piston kit.
 
32.5 pilot 420 main, it just felt like the bike was labouring badly and bottom end and mid range seemed non existent.
 
You can't ride deep sand dunes with a paddle tire, with the same jetting you trail ride/race at the same temps and elevation. The engine loads increase too much. Even to ride a deep sand MX track, you would usually jet up.
 
Just pulled the plug, it was dry with remnants of piston material on it. Gone seriously lean.
 
I think that the 2nd clip is way too lean for dune riding. I run 2nd/3rd clip for technical enduro riding where I'm rarely at WOT for more than a couple seconds.
 
Why are they so temperemental ? I just want a reasonable allround setting. Have never changed a thing on my previous bike and never had an issue.
 
After I bought my WR250, 2 friends bought 300s, one is a Six Days rider. Both 300s have siezed. My 250 is sold but was reliable as a hammer.
 
ray_ray said:
What about upping the oil percentage in your gasoline and leaving the jetting alone?
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That will just slightly lean the fuel/air ratio. That shouldn't be a problem anyway. My 300 is running at 60:1 (Motorex Crosspower), and doing quite well.
 
Been doing a few wide open blast rides recently so I switched to 32:1. Does make it leaner so you hafta jet a lil richer. The added oil definitely provides more lubrication as a safeguard.

Was the V Force reed block sealed up between carb and block? Typical air leak location. Is the intake boot there (from carb to reeds) intact and not cracked at the joint?
 
I had a look and although the clamp appeared to be seated properly from the shifter side of the engine it was not seated properly after viewing from the other side once i had the exhaust removed not to mention there was a melted breather line that had been making contact with the exhaust. It is possible that's why it was running lean.
 
Jaz_83 said:
I had a look and although the clamp appeared to be seated properly from the shifter side of the engine it was not seated properly after viewing from the other side once i had the exhaust removed not to mention there was a melted breather line that had been making contact with the exhaust. It is possible that's why it was running lean.
Click to expand...


I changed my jetting just before a dune trip and placed the carburetor back into the boot. Was in a hurry and also thought same thing that it was seated properly viewed from shifter side. It wasn't. The mis-aligned clamp wore a gaping hole in the boot rim which sucked air all day and made bike run super lean. Completely shocked that it didn't seize. Careful with it now. :D
 
I always spray a little WD-40 on the mating surfaces and to make them slide into place better. And then check the mating on both sides of the bike before calling it good.
 
Will be a very careful rebuild, any factory fitted issues that might require attention whilst apart?
 
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