• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

clutch half round shaft design

fran...k.

fran...k.

Husqvarna
AA Class
As shown in the picture the earlier simple half round and the later more complex one. It seems to me that the later type are generally in poor condition by the time I get them.

clutch.half.rounds.jpg


I plan on trying to sleeve the hole this item goes into for a 1988 model and was wondering if there is any reason not to just go back to the earlier version? I have some stellite rod and also some other high manganese hard facing to use. I repaired a simple half round one a long time ago and don't remember what I used.

I guess increased leverage is the idea for the change but it doesn't seem to stand up and I also note the bore gets loose and then the seal doesn't work.

It seems easy enough to change them back and forth but does anyone have any theories what might be best?

I see from looking at the modern parts sheets there is a small solid shaft below the half round portion which rides in a needle bearing. Of course once I get the bearing bronze then come up with an alternative.

Fran
 
Fran,
I will have to look at my '88 430 clutch shaft arm this weekend and see if it is worn in a similar fashion. I wonder if it wasn't necessarily a bad design in the clutch shaft, but the addition of the extra spring in the clutch basket for the 430 (6 springs instead of 5). The clutch pull is excessively heavy on mine. I have spent more time than I care to admit to staring at the right side case wondering if there was a way to machine the outside to accept a hydraulic clutch slave piston. The case is contoured in this area because of the internal bearing pocket and the clutch shaft bore.
 
Thanks for the comments,

I am working on one engine and pulled those things out of two 87-88 and another one to get the earlier one. The wear on the face from pushing on actuating rod correlates to how sloppy it is in the bore. It might be the spinning like suggested, it probably is a little more touchy adjusting the little thing in the center of the clutch which takes up the axial play.

The bearing instead of the seal, packed with salt water proof grease probably will keep dirt out well. You must be right the wear at the top is from the cable forces. There is wear at the bottom as well, I can see about a millimeter of the original surface as the shaft didn't go all the way to the bottom. At one time I was smearing that location with grease before the start and at the gas stop. Quite a bit of dirt in the one I am working on and one I pulled but didn't photograph.
 
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