• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch drag or creep 1974 250WR

M

moseleykmc

Husqvarna
AA Class
Folks, I am trying to eliminate slight clutch drag that prohibits selecting neutral at idle. I have checked and eliminated the below causes:

Oil viscosity too thick- now have ATF
Warped plates- have new fiber and steels replacing alloys- the pack thickness is within range
Worn actuator- the half round is in good shape
Adjustment- all adjustments are correct, and all 5 rod pieces are present.

I have not yet checked the release plate movement for level with a feeler gauge yet, am trying to locate new lock tabs before bending the old ones again. The are 3 threads showing in each nut now. I assume that if the plate is not releasing in a level manner that could cause drag?
I also have the round ends of both outer clutch rods facing outboard- one on the half moon actuator and one on the clutch release plate. Please let me know if the clutch rods are facing wrong and should have the flat ends outboard.
I did not look at the how far the clutch basket is pressed on the output shaft so as to be level with the bushing sleeve. As there are to slight grooves scratched into the clutch cover from the locking rings, could thee whole assembly be too far outboard as a result?

Any input would be appreciated!
 
on the bultaco I had years a go it dragged and slipped until a clever Mr mc Hanic showed me how to ensure the plates opened evenly right around the clutch circumference by adjusting the springs a bit. cant do that with the husky but might be worth while to measure the spread right around the clutch and see if there is a significant variation allowing the plates to touch and drag
 
When working on the 5 and 6 speed clutch that uses nuts on the pressure plate springs I've always tightened the nuts flush with the studs so there's no threads showing. This allows for more pressure plate travel than if the nuts are tightened far enough to allow 3 threads to show.

Also check the cable for defects that would allow it to stretch or the housing to compress.
 
suprize said:
on the bultaco I had years a go it dragged and slipped until a clever Mr mc Hanic showed me how to ensure the plates opened evenly right around the clutch circumference by adjusting the springs a bit. cant do that with the husky but might be worth while to measure the spread right around the clutch and see if there is a significant variation allowing the plates to touch and drag
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
Crashaholic said:
When working on the 5 and 6 speed clutch that uses nuts on the pressure plate springs I've always tightened the nuts flush with the studs so there's no threads showing. This allows for more pressure plate travel than if the nuts are tightened far enough to allow 3 threads to show.

Also check the cable for defects that would allow it to stretch or the housing to compress.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
Crashaholic said:
When working on the 5 and 6 speed clutch that uses nuts on the pressure plate springs I've always tightened the nuts flush with the studs so there's no threads showing. This allows for more pressure plate travel than if the nuts are tightened far enough to allow 3 threads to show.

Also check the cable for defects that would allow it to stretch or the housing to compress.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
You can also shim the pressure plate bolts to adjust spring pressure.
I did that on a 250 so it would start in gear to eliminate drag as well. I started in 1/2 mm shim increments. Too much then clutch will slip? Just thought?
 
When I opened up my 84 250WR engine just to replace the crank seals, I found that a PO had put bushings on 2 of the 5 clutch hub bolts. If you develop the correct spring compression at bottom, it should be used on all
 
I've tried all the above on my 73. Takes time to get it perfect. But it has been my experience that you will always have trouble getting in to neutral while sitting still. I just get used to shifting to neutral as I'm rolling to where I want to stop. For some reason, it's easy when it's rolling but hard when it's stopped.
 
even in neutral there is a force acting on the gears (you've all oiled the chain on the stand in neutral..) so it doesn't take much to put a but constant force on the dogs when you are stopped. while you move, the natural pulsing of the motor loads and unloads the box allowing it to slip out of gear easily.
 
do you still have a magura on it? these huskies really like that longer throw for good, full engagement
 
Thanks to all. I do have magura levers, but still have the stock actuating lever.
I will readjust the nuts to be flush, and check that lift is equal.
Will report back in a few days.
Thanks!
 
Ok ran nuts out towards flush, checked for equal lift with feeler gauges, drag gets worse when hot.
What next? Replace fibers with OEM?
 
Hi, if you remove all the clutch plates, does the clutch hub turn freely in the clutch basket? If all is well, you should be able to spin the hub by giving it a flick with your hand. After rebuilding my 360 Sportsman motor I discovered that the clutch hub was stiff when turning by hand. On my sportsman, there is a thick washer that sits in between the hub and the basket and this was the source of extra friction. The reason for this was that I had not pressed the clutch basket on fully. To correct this I removed the clutch hub, I then placed a large washer (inside diameter 25mm) between the hub and the basket, tightened the hub up. This moved the basket onto its bush by about an extra 0.8mm. When I removed this large washer, replaced the small washer, tab and torqued up the nut all was well again.
On my bultaco I adjust the clutch plate by removing the cover. Put one of the cover screws back into the casing, near the basket. Attach one end of a piece of wire to this screw and point the other end at the outside pressure plate. Rotate the clutch slowly and you will see if the pressure plate runs true. If not, you can adjust the nuts accordingly.
Sorry if this is stuff you already know.
Hope you solve your problem.
Bultacosd
 
Ran the nuts out to one thread, adjusted with feeler gauge for even lift, still drags and gets worse when hot. Does anybody has the thickness of OEM fiber plates? The only thing left to do is to try replacing the fibers. This is very frustrating!
 
Just had thought- when told to adjust huge spring nuts with three threads showing, I was assuming that was three threads down inside the nut to the studs. Now I just read one post to turn the nuts until three threads of the stud protrude through the adjusting nuts. Anybody have ant guidance?
Thanks,
Moseley
 
I would say start with the top of the adjuster nuts being flush with the top of the studs.
Now, what are you doing with the adjuster on the end of the rods and balls coming from the actuator and through the plate? I think you might want to start making small adjustments there at this point. How many threads are showing on the adjuster, on the outside of the lock nut?
On my 73, I ended up with the adjuster nuts and studs flush. And I have around 3 threads (approx. 3/16") showing on the adjuster coming through the plate on the outside of the lock nut. I also had good luck with ATF Type F. I have zero drag or creep with the clutch in and in 1st gear. I also have the dog-leg Magura's.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top