• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

All 2st Clutch burnishing

shawbagga

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Does it really work? I'm still yet to order a new friction n steel set for 300s clutch(creeping in gear n out of adjustment after 240 hours). Was thinkin of givin it a go as nothin to lose really(well aside from clutch!!). I was over on GG website n coupla blokes have done it but buggered if I can find the thread now! Basicly put tyre up against wall n let clutch out with bit of revs til wheel wants to spin. Thoughts? Opinions? Ways of doin it?
Should add my basket fingers are a little notched but before I order a new basket or file em down with new fibres/steels thought I'd try this
 
Lol a burn out is what they suggest cure a creeping clutch. Lol do what you want man but don't use a good knobblie. Video it too.
Personally i would check plates are clean between the friction bits and file out the notches.
 
Nah don't light it up jus abuse clutch I guess up to point it wants to spin. Do it on a cold clutch n burn the clutch a bit to stop it stickin. Gonna order clutch kit next coupla weeks all goin well but curious if anyone tried it before?

Yeh I file basket wen get new fibres n steels. Hav to measure springs too but hopefully they ok. Hav to c if new basket is available!
 
never heard of this mate!!

File down the notches and give the gearbox a good rinse with diesel...warm up the gearbox and dump the old oil, fill it up with diesel, start the bike and cycle up thru the gears on the stand, dump the diesel out and then remove the fibres and steels and lay the bike on the side over some rags to completely empty old diesel and crud.

I've had great success just pulling out the fibres and steels and give them a good clean as clutch creep can also be caused by clutch fibres binding..good wipe down and clean with contact cleaner does the trick.
 
If you choose to file notches in your basket tangs I urge you to exercise caution to ensure you remove material evenly so as to maintain a consistent gap between each tang (from top to bottom) all the way around the basket...right down to the 0.01". Find the deepest groove and that's what you need to file each tang down to so as to maintain a consistent gap all the way around. If the gap is not consistent between tangs all the way around then some (or many) your friction plates will not align on the tangs, and the basket will impart more stress on the some plates than others, which may lead to overstressing a plate and possibly a failure. I tried to manually file notches in my oem basket and did not obtain the accuracy I was striving for, so I bought a billet basket from FbF and moved on to the next project. After I finished filing I loaded plates into the basket and saw that several were not touching the tangs while others were. There is a reason clutch baskets are cast and machined; because we can't do it by hand well enough. Also, plates are cheap. Buy new ones since you've gotten 240 hrs out of the stock plates. They lived a good life :).
 
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