• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch Bleeding

P

Pete

Husqvarna
AA Class
I wonder if some one could write or link to the absolute last word on bleeding these $#$%^&^*( magura clutches.

I have bled brakes and clutches on all kinds of machinery and never had so much trouble as i do on these clutches.

I have searched around and found various methods, but few work reliably for me.

Maybe the agreed solution could appear in the tech section?
 
I wish I could help here but when the O-ring went bad on my slave unit, I just replaced the o-ring with the up-tite version, added straight mineral oil to the master cylinder, pumped the handle only 3-5 times, bled the line from the bottom bleeding valve. While doing this, don't let the cylinder run low of fluid while you are bleeding it.

This had to be repeated 3-4 times before no air was released by the valve before I rode the bike again. Then I repeated this procedure maybe twice after riding the bike a few miles down the trail and I have never had a problem again.

Also, there has to be a little empty space at the top of the master cylinder for air...I can't remember the exact amount of space but the masfullter will not need to be 100% full.

All that back-bleeding stuff never came into play with me...

I guess these new fangled hydro clutches are the latest and greatest and we can't win the championship or finish a ride without one now, but I'd rather have one clutch cable on my bike and 1 or 2 in my truck as a back up. Myself, I just don't see the greatness at the end of the day.

Just to show have finicky these things are with the o-ring slave cylinder, I have read where some have never had an issue there...Mine quit on the second ride.
 
Magura sells a small bleed kit you can get through EE. I think it was 30$

Takes me a couple minutes now.
 
probably means Enduro Engineering...just go to your local Pharmacy and get a 10ml baby syringe, use some vent line...back bleed it by cracking open the bleeder on the slave and open the clutch master cylinder cover. push the new fluid thru the bleeder up the line into the cylinder....it is messy because the new fluid will go over the edge....make sure you get all the bubbles out. 10 minute job. http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5847&highlight=clutch+bleeding
 
Harbor Freight has a $10 vacuum bleeding tool complete with hoses, adapters and bottle for a mess free bleeding of any hydraulic brake.
 
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