• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Clutch Adjustment on a TE449 2013

M

MaDProFF

Husqvarna
A Class
Am I right in thinking there is no real clutch adjustment except the little knob on the lever?

The Clutch is not fully disengaging when I pull the lever in as far as I can, I have made it a little worse by slipping over some grip puppies, so when I put it in 1st gear, it does make a clunk and it wants to creep.

Suggestions please, like the lever needs bending outwards.
 
Change oil or try a better and/or thinner oil. Do a search on oil here on the forum. Also check how much oil you run in the bike.
Just what I've learned on my bike but also from reading here on the forum.
 
Mine was the same. 2012 TE511. Oil change to 40 wt., and some run in time it is good. If mine sits awhile, it will
Drag a little till I run her around awhile...if it does not get better, there are shim adjustments that can be made,
If it does not improve, you should be covered under warranty, let them do it....
 
Thanks, will give it a few miles, hopefully will get the new spacer tomorrow for the 17" wheels, and get the front wheel on and some road miles on her
 
I'm still having "clutch drag" issues with my 2011 TE449 after 3000 miles and using Mobil 1 0w/40 since new. Is there an adjustment or mod that I can do to help?
Thanks,
Tooly
 
What I have found out, maybe this will help someone. I talked to Hall's today and they informed me that in 2012 Husky started making 5 different clutch spacers for this bike. They start at 3.9mm and go up to 4.7mm in .2mm increments. More info as I find out by tinkering with mine..........
 
My 2011 is pretty good too.
Only hard to find neutral at times when cold, but it will start ok in gear no matter what & never creeps.
Maybe we were both lucky..... :)
 
Finally got to tinker with the clutch some today. I took off the cover and removed all the discs (12) and spacer. I checked the stack height and it was spot on at 31mm. The discs seemed very "suctioned" together with oil (Mobil 1 0w40) so I cleaned all the discs and replaced them. I reassembled everything, put the bike in first gear with the engine off and pushed it forward. NO drag. I then cranked it up in neutral and worked the clutch in and out several times to get oil flowing through it. Cut the bike back off, put it in first and the drag was back just like before. The oil seems to be creating a suction on the plates. Any suggestions guys?
Thanks,
Tooly
 
Is it still a 'problem' when warmed up?
If it is only when the oil is cold, that is quite normal & to be expected.
This Husky design with the clutch direct on the crank looses the mechanical advantage of the primary years used in almost all other modern bikes.
It does let them use a smaller lighter clutch though.

How were the clearances when assembled, as per the section in the manual? Do you need more clearance with a different spacer shim?
 
I didn't give it a chance to warm up to see if there was a difference but previously it didn't matter much. It currently has the stock shim which I assume is the thinnest available. To create more clearance would I need to go thicker or thinner?
I also tried an experiment by making a .030 shim and placing it between the slave ball and pusher to see if some extra travel would help but that didn't make any difference either so I removed it.
Thanks,
Tooly
 
Looks like, from the table of shims, 3.9mm should be the thinnest shim.
The thicker shims are installed to make up for worn plates.

I'd suggest it will likely be normal drag for the model.
I am at times unable to select neutral cold on my own bike, but much better when warmed up.
I run motorcycle oil not car oil in mine but it is a slightly heavier grade than your Mobil 1.
Mine is Aust market Castrol Power 1 Synthetic Racing. Here we are offered 5W-40 weight, US spec is thicker again from what I've been able to find at 10W40.
 
Thanks for your input. I am kinda at a loss as to what else to do. I am thinking about taking the stock shim down even thinner since I work in a tool and die shop and can grind it on a surface grinder to see what happens. If I get it too thin I can just order a new one from the dealer I guess. I might also try the Castrol to see if it makes a difference.
Thanks again,
Tooly
 
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