• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Clutch adjustment assistance

russlaman

Husqvarna
AA Class
So my clutch cable stretched and then came apart.
I bought a new cable, but I have a question about the lever arm on the case.

On my bike, it moves about an inch (measured at the end) before there's any resistance, then can only go the rest of the way, disengaging the clutch. the first part of the arm's travel is for nothing.

Thus, my clutch lever (on the handle bar) has very little movement range, and it seems can't disengage the clutch. I have it apart right now as I'm changing water hoses and cleaning and repacking my exhaust. so can't drive it around the yard.

Is the excessive initial movement in the lever arm on the case normal?

Can I make it so it (the lever's range on the case) is not useless for the first bit of travel, as that slop essentially takes all the adjustment from the clutch lever and the sizing part of the cable.

Thanks for any help
 
So my clutch cable stretched and then came apart.
I bought a new cable, but I have a question about the lever arm on the case.

On my bike, it moves about an inch (measured at the end) before there's any resistance, then can only go the rest of the way, disengaging the clutch. the first part of the arm's travel is for nothing.

Thus, my clutch lever (on the handle bar) has very little movement range, and it seems can't disengage the clutch. I have it apart right now as I'm changing water hoses and cleaning and repacking my exhaust. so can't drive it around the yard.

Is the excessive initial movement in the lever arm on the case normal?

Can I make it so it (the lever's range on the case) is not useless for the first bit of travel, as that slop essentially takes all the adjustment from the clutch lever and the sizing part of the cable.

Thanks for any help
look in your manual
 
if you have the clutch cover off there is an adjustment in the middle of the clutch pressure plate allen and nut or screw driver and nut can't remember been a bit
anyway as stated above it's in the owners manual
if you don't have one we can post a pic of the page
 
Adjust the center of the basket push-rod so that the case lever travel crosses 90 degrees as the clutch lever is being pulled in. You will have to back off the cable adjustment at the handlebar lever then make the adjustment at the basket then adjust the hand lever and pull in the clutch and observe the case lever making sure it passes 90 degrees in the middle of it's travel. This gives you the most leverage advantage and makes the pull the lightest and gives you the best feel.
 
if you have the clutch cover off there is an adjustment in the middle of the clutch pressure plate allen and nut or screw driver and nut can't remember been a bit
anyway as stated above it's in the owners manual
if you don't have one we can post a pic of the page

Could you please post a pic of that page, Im always trying to get my clutch lighter and better feeling
 
Could you please post a pic of that page, Im always trying to get my clutch lighter and better feeling

the oddity of the language is due to interpretation
so follow the instruction of others here, you will find that the cable, if it's stock or Motion Pro will get you pretty close to the 90 degree angle



IMG_0765.jpg
 
Thx for all the help, clutch is great now, relative to how it was behaving the last couple of times anyway.
now to figure out why my float is stuck open now. and the red coolant hoses make it look faster too!
 
Adjust the center of the basket push-rod so that the case lever travel crosses 90 degrees as the clutch lever is being pulled in. You will have to back off the cable adjustment at the handlebar lever then make the adjustment at the basket then adjust the hand lever and pull in the clutch and observe the case lever making sure it passes 90 degrees in the middle of it's travel. This gives you the most leverage advantage and makes the pull the lightest and gives you the best feel.

I'm having trouble making these adjustments. Can you please help?
 
Beetletag its a real touchy adjustment. The screw in center of pressure plate is a ccourse thread so you will have to mess with it a bit. I adjust mine so there is just a little bit of free play in lever on engine. Makes the lever pull real easy
 
Back off the cable and set the pushrod length then take the slack out of the cable and work the lever to see where it's disengaging the clutch.. It might take a couple tries to get it breaking at 90 degrees but it really does make a big difference.
 
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