• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc Clutch actuating arm.

G

gwynfryn

Husqvarna
A Class
The actuating arm on my low hour(40) 09 wr250 seems to have lifted to the point where the cable is rubbing on the reed cage. The shaft of the arm looks like it has lifted, see where it is shiny in the image.
The clutch still works fine but now that i think about it the pull may be a bit tougher than it used to be and i did get cramp in my forearm in my last race.
I have done no work on the clutch apart from fit a terminator cable at around 5hrs.
The shaft won't simply push down as i have tried this. I have another race in 5 days and am not sure what to do.
Has anyone else experienced this before?
Thanks from Paul in New Zealand.20141116_110650.jpg
 
Shouldnt there be s spring there?
Hae you taken out the pin inside the chultch, then push the actuating arm and insert the pin again?
 
I think that spring was only on earlier year models. It's not listed in the 2009 parts catalog.

Never seen this before...taking the pin out from the center of the clutch sounds like a good starting point to see what's going on.
 
Thanks for the advice.
I don't think it ever had a return spring and yes I guess I will have to have a look inside. Just a bit worried as to what I might find, I was hoping it may have been a common issue with an easy fix!
 
Pulled out the shaft and pushrod and everything looks as it should. The actuating lever can't sit any lower as it bottoms out and anyway it is the pushrod that dictates the position.
Clutch feels a little lighter but I have not changed anything.

Does anyone else's clutch cable ride along the underside of the reed cage?
 
image.jpg
If theres no spring mentioned it may not have it but the shaft could be the same and same height just without spring on.
See bad dark picture.
 
All you do is bend the arm down towards bottom of cases.

They are known to rub.

Also you ought to cut arm off, make new one 1/2 longer and with ez clutch, you can pull it with your pinky.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top